How can you tell...

If a diesel needs a new head gasket? Had a guy that seams to know his diesels here today and he says our 65 needs one. If it does how hard is it? Or would it be better to bring it to a shop?
 
Does it make white smoke (coolant being burned)? Does the engine run hot? Does it like to push out coolant out the overflow on the radiator on a regular basis?
 
head gasket replace isn't a hard job with basic tools
just take your time
things to look out for is true and flat block and head
use a straight edge and feeler guage keep clearance to below 3 thou
check for cracks on block and head as well
be sure both surfaces are clean I like to use a sanding block and lightly sand with fine emery cloth to clean them good 1st
I also use a copper coat on the head gasket
head bolt torque is 60 - 65 ft pounds and needs to be retorqued after 50 hrs run time
you might want to replace the head bolts but the old ones can be reused a cple times
if you do't know the history of this tractor replace them to be sure
start to finish is about 2 hr job if no troubles
if I missed something someone will add to this
best way to tell if a head gasket is bad is a compression test
but if its running poorly and popping someone with experiance should be able to tell by listening
or if your cooling system gets pressurized quickly right after a cold start
 
LOTS of white smoke and it's done that since we bought it last year. I haven't noticed it pushing any coolant out. I keep the radiator filled and when I checked today it was full to the top. And I don't
know if the engine runs hot because the thermometer cable is broken off at the thermometer and I haven't thought of a good way to reatach it yet.
 
No popping and seems to run good. I don't think the cooling system gets pressurized quickly but I rarely run it for more then 20 mins. I guess a question I really have now is can it ruin anything to drive it 5 miles to mechanic friends house to put a new gasket on it there?
 
you can check cooling system pressure by squeezing a rad hose it it gets hard quickly right after starting less than 2 mins then yes
if it's running good why do you think it needs a head gasket
if it smokes white dose it do it all the time its running or does it clear up after running awhile
if you thermometer is a tube style you can't reattach it you have to replace the whole unit, if they are broke or opened up it releases the internal gas and makes them useless
as long as you are not getting any anti freeze into your oil driving it shouldn't be a problem as you said it's been this way since last yr if it was there the damage is already done
anti freeze and bearing don't like each other and only takes a short time to cause damage
 
When it runs for a while the exhaust mainly clears up. Just thought this guy seemed to know his stuff and had me worried. Guess I will try to get the fuel system tip top again and use it as is
 
White smoke when engine is cold but clears when warm is usually a sign of low compression. Can also be injection pump timing, check to see if the pump flange scribe line is even with the timing case line. If not reset it and see if it helps the smoke any.
 
How does it start? White smoke is also a sign of low compression. Another thing to do is take the exhaust manifold off and see which ports the white smoke flies out of. Do that and get back with us. How does it start when the tractor has run for 15-20 minutes?
 
Turns over slowly one time then kinda rumble/roars to life. Always starts first time pretty much as soon as ya hit the switch if the connections are tight and all the electrical is good.

"Another thing to do is take the exhaust manifold off and see which ports the white smoke flies out of"

Any concern for gaskets needing replaced if I do that? Not that I'm worried, just trying to make a list of needed parts.

I'll run it some and try some things tomorrow if it doesn't snow too much
 
How about a phone number or post your e-mail. Yea I know we are to get snow also. I would like to talk to you in person. J.
 
Ran it some today before I got it stuck and the smoke clears up for the most part within a minute or so. Then if I throttle up fast it puffs a cloud. Did seam to start a bit easier when warmed up but it usually starts easy anyway. Where on the injector pump is the timing marks? I'm assuming behind that little plate with to bolts holding it on but I don't want to ruin it by doing something I shouldn't have.
a223061.jpg
 
Radiator hose didn't get hard after 3 or 4 mins of running. Ran it for about 8 mins and then once I got it stuck noticed that while it was running I could see it bubbling where the pic shows. I assume if it's bubbling around the edges it s must have for a new head gasket?
a223062.jpg
 
bubbling 8 - even 20 mins along gasket edges I would expect condensation or rain if after an hr or two once it's been worked and totally up to temp for a good amount of time so that the dampness can evaporte
and then if it's still bubbling or blowing out steam and lossing anti freeze I might give it a small chance it needs a head casket
the old saying of don't fix what's not broke comes to mind here
you can spend a lot of monie and still have exactly what you started with except a depletded bank account
 
Look closely at the pump, there's a scribed line on the flange ear by the hold down stud/nut. The line should be even with another scribed line on the timing cover the pump bolts to. May need to use some paint stripper to find them.
 

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