MF 50 front pto

suplene

Member
Can anyone tell me how a front end hydraulic pump hooks up to the MF 50? Does it use a shaft directly into the tractor or is it accomplished with belts pulleys. etc? It appears the front port is designed for a crank to start it with.
 
They have a coupler that bolts on to the crankshaft pulley (if the pulley doesn't have the bolt holes for the coupler you will need one). The drive shaft then attaches to the coupler, and it goes out the port to a pump. Depending on what front axle support you have you may, or may not need a bracket that bolts to the front support that allows a pump to be bolted to it.
 
Thank you! Do you have any idea where I can see a picture or a diagram of the set-up? I've spent hours looking on the internet, but can't seem to find anything about it.
 
Here you go.
Pump_zpsysjhdvud.jpg
 
A front pump is not a good idea on a 50 or 65 as the shaft connecting from pump to crankshaft will interfere with the steering causing a shorter turning radius, a pto pump is a better choice.
 
Got a mf65, ended up putting pto pump on for my front bucket that i added on after purchasing tractor. The steering arm on the left side of the tractor blocks front of center of pulley so you can only partially turn if you put front mount hydraulic pump on front.
 
I've never research pto pumps. If I do that will I lose the use of the pto? or do they make it so it remains functional? Also, I'm actually trying to hook up a model 90 loader (not the right one I know) but am trying to figure out how much hydraulic fluid goes into the reservoir on the arms. I tried running the loader off the tractor hydraulics, but can't get it to stop clunking, so I'm thinking an exterior pump is the way to go. I got the front mount one with the bucket at an auction, but the warnings about messing up the steering have me leaning toward the pto pump.
 
Another idea some here have suggested is putting a hydraulic pump on the front end hooked to your fan belt. It would have to be mounted on the side of the frame of your tractor.
 
The internal pump on a 50 is only around 4.5gpm (which makes the loader painfully slow), for a front end loader you need a pump that puts out at least 11gpm minimum. I have a industrial front axle, and support on my 135. The pump bolts to the front axle support while the pump drive goes through the center of the axle pivot pin. Don't know of any pto pump that also has a output shaft for pto.
 
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Pumps/PTO-Pumps/5-7-CU-IN-PRINCE-HC-PTO-2A-PTO-PUMP-540-RPM-9-1047-2.axd
 
I don't mean to hijack a thread, but this was the most recent discussion about the pump drive like what's on my 202.

The bushings had worn out and allowed the driven plate to slide forward, scratching the frame and therefore screaming like a banshee unless the pump was being loaded. I got the replacement bushings, but I entered some confusion when i put them in.

The holes on the adapter plate were shaped like a counterbore FROM the engine side, I couldn't tell if the holes had worn a burr around the front of the plate, or if that's how it is supposed to be.

I loosened the pump and was able to get the new bushings in the holes from the back of the plate (between adapter plate and crank pulley) and pressed them in as far as i could prying with a screwdriver. the adapter plate looks like the threaded shaft is sticking through too far and hits the crank pulley bolt when the adapter plate is still 1/4" away or so.

I put the hardware in (metal bushing, washer, bolt) and even though I was unsure of it, It is certainly better than it had been before.

I guess what i'm trying to figure out, is my adapter plate on backwards?
Is it supposed to seat against the crank pulley?
Are the holes actually counterbored? (installed backwards theory)
Or is the pump what puts pressure on the adapter to stay on the rubber bushing drive dogs? (I doubt this but just a thought I had.)

Thanks in advance!
Peter Muzzy
 
It sounds like the adaptor plate is on backwards, the driveshaft does crew in to the adaptor. The adaptor plate is flat on one side (that side goes to the pulley), on the other side the plate has bump that sticks out that goes toward the front.
 
Okay perfect, thanks, that sounds exactly like what I'm looking at and would explain exactly what i thought/feared. Looks like I will try to track down another adapter plate and shaft and then try to replace it, because i turned the old pump input shaft into a keyed shaft to hex adapter to try to wrench on it and it wouldn't budge, and yeah i know its LH thread. Had the tractor in low reverse with the PTO engaged to my frozen solid at the time snowblower, and I put as much torque on it as i could, had the breaker bar wedged under pressure and put a torch between crank pulley and adapter, nada. So I think the only way its going to come off is with a little plasma persuasion.

Thanks!
Peter
 
Sometimes the driveshaft just gets really stuck in the coupler over time. Once I had to just cut the shaft off with a torch just to get the old coupler out.
 
Good news, I was able to get it broken loose, as I had suspected it was assembled backwards. I put it all back together and once I fired it up it seemed like something was binding in the shaft because there was a kind of scraping/ metal clacking sound. i looked and didnt see anything, but it was weird, it came and went randomly. I mean it wasnt so bad that I felt the need to shut it down, but it was enough that it caught my attention.

I loosened the bolts on the pump flange just a hair, and that seemed to help, I'm just trying to figure out where the interference is. It looked like maybe it was the tapered part of the pump drive now that its held back further towards the engine, but i'm not sure. maybe it isn't meant to be completely tight up against the crank pulley? Or is there supposed to be a bearing in there somewhere for the pump drive shaft? There was metal dust in there but i assumed it was from the adapter flopping around before.

While i had the chance i put a normal v-belt in there so i can put the link belt back on the shelf for a spare.
 
The metal sleeves inside the rubber isolators should be sticking past the face of the coupler. Since someone put it on backwards it moved the rubber isolators, and sleeves in the coupler (those rubber isolators/metal sleeves are just pressed into the metal coupler). If they isolators still fit tight in the coupler you should be able to move them back so they stick out the back side of the coupler. Another thing you can do is find some washers with the same id, and od (or slightly bigger od) of the metal sleeve inside the rubber isolators, and put the washers between the coupler, and pulley (about 1/16" clearance should be enough.

Also if the front axle pivot pin, or bushings are worn it is possible for the pump driveshaft to rub against the hole in the front axle support (some of them don't have much clearance). It is also possible that the pump drive shaft is bottoming out against the input shaft of the hydraulic pump which will make a little noise. Make sure everything has some clearance, nothing should get forced together.
 
So just to clarify, the head of the metal liner should face the crank pulley? i got a new set of rubber bushings so they fit tight. I wondered if some of the binding was misalignment between the axis of the crank and the axis of the pump, such at loosening the pump relieved some of the pressure. i just thought that the head on the outside(front) of the adapter would help keep the adapter from wanting to walk off the front like it had been.
 
(quoted from post at 10:35:34 02/01/16) I wondered if some of the binding was misalignment between the axis of the crank and the axis of the pump, such at loosening the pump relieved some of the pressure.


That could be possible.

3089wl1.jpg
 

See mine is a little different, but i cant tell from the images if the head of the liner is in or out.

either way, i loosened the bolts a hair, and made a 1/16th gap between adapter and crank and retightened bolts. and then loosened the pump itself and put a thin flat washer and a rubber washer (actually a rubber washer gasket for a female garden hose) between pump and flange and tightened it. and that seems to be the right amount of flex or slop that it needed. every now and then it still sometimes squeals/chirps when i move the loader but nothing too bad.
"If it's anything serious, it'll get worse."
 

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