CAV fuel line ends?

ptfarmer

Well-known Member
Location
San Antonio, Tx
On the cav fuel lines that use the rubber olive on the ends of the tubing, is there any other type of tube end that can be used instead of the one that use the rubber olive? I have some lines on my 135 that need replacing, and the cost of the original type tubes are expensive if you can find them.
 
I have is some new ones here and just measured them. What I'm
coming up with is 3/8 outside 1/4 inside x 1/4 wide. If you can
get the proper size tubing I don't see why you couldn't cut your
own. They are pricy for some bits of hose.
a209331.jpg
 
You many line olives do you need? I have lots of both sizes. Most Perkins 3 and 4 cylinder tractors use 1/4 OD lines while the 6 cylinders use 5/16 OD lines. On my puller I made lines out of steel brake line. I have both 1/4 and 5/16 olives on hand.
 
I need the hard lines from the fuel tank to the fuel pump to the filter. The two hard lines that go from the filter to the injector pump, and all the bleed off hard lines from the rear injector to the filter, and back to the fuel tank. Battery acid did a number on all those hard lines (some of the hard lines are seeping diesel).
 
Are there some kind of other hard lines with different ends that can be used in-place instead of the ones that use the rubber olive type ends. I can bend the hard lines myself.
_zpsfrfsveqy.jpg
 
Just use 3/16, 1/4, or 5/16 steel brake line that fits the line end nuts you have now, with the olives. The line does not need the small bubble on the ends, when the nut is tight against the olive the ends seal fine and hold in place well too. You could always use the brass sleeve ferrels, but why go backwards and fight fuel leaks? That's why they were replaced with the rubber olives, as they don't shake loose with engine vibration.
 
Dieseltech, it was the small bubble (the flat ring on the tubing between the olive, and the nut) on the ends I wasn't sure about. I don't have a problem with using the olives, I was concerned about the nuts rubbing against or rotating the olives when you tighten them up thus chewing up the olives a little so they wouldn't seal properly. I didn't want to "experiment", and be fighting leaks since the tractor is about ready to be painted.
 
It's not hard to make those rubber sealing washers up.

I used neoprene fuel line tubing 1 1/2 inch or so long, slid onto a longer 1/4 inch stove bolt and nutted to tighten. Chucked in a drill and ground the outside down to size on the grinder. Looks kinda artistic as the reenforcing braid gets exposed!

Forget whether or not I had to shave the head of the stove bolt down a bit to get the proper OD. Then a sharp knife cut them to length.

And I used that same tubing to put a flex joint somewhere near the center of those pesky steel lines, to make them easier to get the ends into proper alignment in the filters, pumps and fuel tap. My first attempt used clear fuel line tubing - a failure. The stuff hardened in a year or so and leaked.

LOW PRESSURE LINES ONLY!!!!
 
The line end bulge on the original lines are not really needed. When the nut is tight it will still hold the brake line well. I've even re-used the sleeves a few times on my S90 puller. Don't really have to be very tight to seal either..
 
(quoted from post at 19:10:22 12/24/15) The line end bulge on the original lines are not really needed. When the nut is tight it will still hold the brake line well. I've even re-used the sleeves a few times on my S90 puller. Don't really have to be very tight to seal either..




That's good to hear, now I can replace those lines so I can paint the thing, and put it back together.
 
I?m restoring a MF 35. I liked the DIYS neoprene hose / fuel grommet idea. I was wondering if anyone has tried R134 AC orings to seal the tubes? Something I?m confused about. I use a lot of compression fittings on copper lines. Those water lines are subjected to 60 to 100 PSI and when properly installed don?t leak. Looking at the AGCO Massey Ferguson schematics for the low pressure CAV fuel lines it shows something they call an ?olive? in front of something they call a ?nut?. Are these olives a rubber grommet or are they a metal ferrule similar to the brass ferrules used in copper compression fittings. Is there a good description somewhere I can read to clarify the terminology? Can I use the brass ferrules in place of the rubber grommets? Did the original equipment have a small metal ferrule and a flat washer under the nut to capture the rubber grommet?

I am just now getting to finish up the restoration I started in 2011. The engine doesn?t even have oil in it yet, and will not run until I get fuel system ginks removed. To check for leaks I used a pump up garden sprayer with the sprayer hose converted to attach to the input line to the fuel pump to check for leaks. It leaked a lot of places but most of all at the fuel pump fittings. I had purchased this aftermarket fuel pump from A&I several years ago. This was the first time I had fuel in it and I found that the pump was useless. After taking the pump head off I found that the outlet valve to the diaphragm chamber was defective from the factory (where ever they had it made). I will attempt to remedy the defective valve here before I spend another 40 bucks on another aftermarket pump which is possibly made in the same Bombay plant with no QC. Has anyone else purchased faulty aftermarket parts for their tractors? How hard could it be for the importers to check on the quality of the stuff they are selling us? Its clear that the factories making the stuff in 3rd world countries aren?t spending a whole lot on details like seeing if the thing their making actually works the way it?s supposed to.

I got an oil pump for this same tractor from the same source. For some reason as I was assembling the engine I decided to check the brand new oil pump on the inside. On inspection I could not believe what I found. There was a defect in the machined inner wall of the casting where the idler gear is supposed to have zero clearance to keep the oil pressure up. On further inspection I found that part of the sand casting core had come lose and was imbedded in the wall of the casting leaving a sand filled cavity. They had machined it and assembled the pump with sand falling out of the hole. I took the pump completely apart and applied high pressure air and a fine pick to the cavity and hope I got all the lose sand out before I reassembled the pump. I?m hoping because the remaining hole is blocked off by the gear teeth as they turn that it won?t effect the function of the pump terribly. But really? I used to expect when I bought a new part that it would function like a ???.new part. Now I take nothing for granted.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top