165 power steering

First post. Love the forum.

Fixing up circa 1967 MF 165 diesel and first issue to tackle is steering. I have 2 problems - the power steering system leaks like a sieve, and there is a big time shimmy while going down the road at anything over, say, 10-12 mph. Both wheels violently shimmy in unison. Slow down and they calm down.

First problem is being taken care of. I've removed the cylinder (I'm pretty sure that's where the leak is and have it apart awaiting the seal kit.) As for the shimmying, I thought perhaps it was caused by wear of the main shaft bushings but now I'm not so sure. I have it all apart and there is some play (a few thousandths upper and a little more lower) but I'm not sure it's enough to cause such a violent result. Tie rods, joints seem tight. Wondering if perhaps simple adjustments (if there is such a thing) of steering arm, etc. might be the answer.

Any wise words regarding the shimmying?

Thanks,

Steve

I don't have an answer but I am eager to hear the solution. I
have a 175 with the same problem. Welcome to the forum, lots of
helpful folks here.

shimmy is usually caused by an out of round tire. ie not out on the rim all around. raise one wheel at a time and rotate to see if it is the same all around.

150, 165, and 175 all had power assist mechanical steering. Tight vertical shaft bushings and tight spool valve actuating link ends AND pins are critical for safe tight steering action, loose worn parts will cause loss of power assist and make wheel shimmy worse..

i also have a 1967 165 diesel mine has the multipower on it.i am the second owner
neighbor couple miles up the road bought it new i purchsed it from his wife after he
passed away.it has around 3500 actual hrs on it.everything is still pretty tight these
are nice tractors.
RICK

Hello,
Dieseltech has hit the nail on the head when he says that all components should be tight.
This type of assisted steering requires that play in all components is kept to an absolute minimum. That is of course
except for the actuating adjustment. Wheel shimmy can be caused by a number of things and can even be present if the
complete steering system appears to be in good order. This is particularly so if you have front wheels with the heavy
cast iron centres. MF produced an anti-wobble kit which consisted of a tufnol disc bearing against a metal disc with
radial ridges on it. This took the place of the KP thrust bearing. These days steel washers and a phosphor bronze
disc are widely used.
Outside of this the main cause of shimmying and reduced steering efficiency is wear in the vertical shaft bushes and
sometimes the shaft. Even if little wear is apparent it would be advisable to replace the bushes at least. Engage the
help of an assistant and check the system as follows;
Check the bush at the top of the steering column for sideways movement.
With the wheels straight ahead pull and push the output shaft at the steering box. There should be no end-float. It
is adjustable but there is a 'high spot' on the shaft and it must be adjusted to this.
Check the ball joints on the drag link.
Have your assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth and look for any play in the following;
upper and lower arms in front of the radiator or in the pedestal arms, wear in the adjustable turn-barrel and/or
pins, wear and axial movement in the cylinder end pin, wear AND UP AND DOWN movement in the rod end on the rod
anchored in the casting (VERY IMPORTANT). Wear in the main shaft bushes, lower steering arm loose in its spline, wear
in the trackrod joints and yes, any throw in either wheel.
Time spent eliminating any play will be more than well spent.
In reply to the 175 question; check for up and down movement within the pedestal. A machined to fit shim washer may
be required.

DavidP, South Wales

Thanks, all. Will get on it and report back.