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Retorquing head super 90

B

Brendon Warren

Well-known Member
How in the hang am I supposed to retorque the head when its warm
if the injectors and rocker arm are in the way of the head bolts?
Do I have to take injectors and rocker back off to accomplish
this? It'll be cold by the time I get it apart. I also don't feel
like being covered in burn marks. Am I missing something?
 
I think re-torquing is over rated, just go incrementally, torque a little more than spec and be done with it.
 
I like to check them when its cold after the engine has been ran just to make sure that they are all still torqued (just personal preference for me). Ask 10 different engine builders, and you probably won't get the same opinion.
 
Re-torqueing when hot on these engines is very important. Just put a block heater on it, torque the head, fill it with coolant, cover the engine with a blanket and the block heater will get it up to normal operating temp, then re-torque it.
 
It won't cool off that fast. What I do is remove the fan belt, run it until the water temp is 190. Remove the rocker assembly and injectors and re-torque all hardware. I've done it in under 10 minutes when I used to use head gaskets on the puller. Block heater will help but it won't get it to 190 degrees. With the belt off it will warm up really evenly..
 
I've done that on some engines, but I won't on a Perkins. I've seen them change quite a bit when hot. And the 300/318 has head gasket issues sometimes anyway.
 
The block heater method has worked for me a couple of times in the past and will get it to operating temp. But you have to cover the engine in a blanket and let the heater run overnight. Diesel Tech's way is a lot faster though...
 
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