TEA 20 throttle/governor

Hi,

I'm looking for some help with the throttle/governor linkage to the carburettor on my newly acquired TEA20.

It was running when I bought it, not sure how as the plug gaps were wrong, points gap wrong, fuel and air mix wrong and distributor wasn't clamped in place, so timing was out too.
I've been sorting all of these out and have it running quite well but cant get the throttle to behave.
If you move the lever far enough, the governor lever will pull out the throttle, but won't return it when the lever is pushed back and you just end up with fast running unless you push the throttle on the carburettor back.

The rod from the governor has been bent by some previous owner just behind the fork before the thread ends so obviously wrong, but I can't tell if it should be bent or not. The ferguson manual has a diagram showing a bend in it, but all the pics I've found on Google seem to be straight.

There is also a return spring at the throttle link on the carburettor which is also obviously wrong and I guess an attempt to fix the problem.

I just can't seem to get a gradual throttle increase, just all or nothing.
Can anyone advise?

Cheears
Chris
 
I just recently had the same problem with my tractor. I had to remove the front cover on the engine, and replace the governor assembly inside the engine.

Here is how you can check the governor.

Carburetor to governor Linkage Adjustment On Continental
Engines. With the throttle pull down in the wide-open
position Disconnect the rod from governor arm that runs
to the carburetor. Adjust to where the pin hole in the
clevis is a half a hole past the hole on the governor
arm when pulled all the way forward and the throttle is
in the wide open position. This is done with the engine
shut off.. This is the most common thing I have found
when the balls or flyweights are all intact. You can
check to see if the governor is working, with the engine off disconnect the rod that goes to the governor arm, and move the throttle lever on the dash to wide open. Hold the rod going to carburetor back, and have someone to start the engine, then move the rod from the carburetor forward slowly at that time the governor arm should move toward the rear. Be careful not to let the engine rev to high when you are doing this. It is best to have someone handy to shut off the switch while you do this
just in case the rod gets away from you.
 
If you decide to investigate the Governor/Chain, Cam Sprocket, Crank Sprocket try viewing the below info In the Archives: Type in as per below:

TEA 20 Chain,Sprockets,Governor,Gaskets,Front oil seal

Bob...
 
PT farmer, when you say forward you mean to radiator and rear towards diff?



(quoted from post at 04:06:50 12/02/15) I just recently had the same problem with my tractor. I had to remove the front cover on the engine, and replace the governor assembly inside the engine.

Here is how you can check the governor.

Carburetor to governor Linkage Adjustment On Continental
Engines. With the throttle pull down in the wide-open
position Disconnect the rod from governor arm that runs
to the carburetor. Adjust to where the pin hole in the
clevis is a half a hole past the hole on the governor
arm when pulled all the way forward and the throttle is
in the wide open position. This is done with the engine
shut off.. This is the most common thing I have found
when the balls or flyweights are all intact. You can
check to see if the governor is working, with the engine off disconnect the rod that goes to the governor arm, and move the throttle lever on the dash to wide open. Hold the rod going to carburetor back, and have someone to start the engine, then move the rod from the carburetor forward slowly at that time the governor arm should move toward the rear. Be careful not to let the engine rev to high when you are doing this. It is best to have someone handy to shut off the switch while you do this
just in case the rod gets away from you.
 

Thanks. What led you to replace the governor internals? I can't tell if mine works with the throttle situation or, if that is a symptom of one that isn't working. Ferguson manual doesn't help. Mine has Standard motor so hoping it works the same as yours.
 
I had pretty much the exact same problem you did on a tractor I bought. I'm not familiar on the governor on the Standard engine, but I'll see what I can find on the Standard engine when I get a chance. There is another member here (DavidP, South Wales) that is probably more familiar with the Standard engine governor. He might spot this the next time he is on here, he is pretty good with these tractors.
 
I had a situation were the Engine would NOT return to ideal until the throttle was forced towards min speed. The Governor weights were ready to fall off/detach from the holding pins.
I rotated the crankshaft CW/CCW and noticed 4 TEETH on the FLYWHEEL had to move past a reference point before the DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR would move. Now only one tooth on the flywheel will pass before the Rotor moves. The governor was sticking at full throttle and would not idle down.
Cheers:
Bob/Canada
a207110.jpg
 

Thanks Bob. My throttle lever will not return it to idle at all. I have to manually push the throttle lever at the idle speed adjustment screw or governor to carby rod to get it back to idle.
Appreciate the photo, it's not that scary a looking job to replace the governor by the looks of it.

Cheers
Chris
 
Good morning:
Info I compiled when REPLACING Crank sprocket ,Camsprocket and Timing Chain.
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine:

(2) Front Lip Oil Seal "National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal" # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:

(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make "DURA SLEEVE" # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745">1.753" Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:

(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or hanging down:

(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as well as the timing chain:

(6)There are NO timing MARKES on the NEW Sprockets. You may whish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you remove the sprockets:

(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the timing marks. There are FOUR hols in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keeping turning the old sprocket until the four hols and all teeth line up. These hols are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up:

(8) It's good practise to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft):

Cheers
Bob...
a207128.jpg
 
Part #'s if you end up replacing timing chain etc, etc, etc:
I purchased the below parts off this site (Yesterday's Tractors):
I noticed when I purchased enough parts to re-build TWO TEA-20 Engines (timing chain and sprockets)one CHAIN was a ONE PIECE with NO MASTER LINK and ONE chain HAD a MASTER LINK. If you end up replacing the below components and the CHAIN has a MASTER LINK be cognisant of installing the MASTER LINK CLIP in the proper orientation.
# 33 825 157 M91
# 29 825 155 M1
# 26 825 199 M1
# 25 825 135 M1
# 24 825 136 M1
# 32 Gasket 825 649 M1
# 29 Gasket 825 168 M1
a207129.jpg

a207130.jpg
 

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