Massey Ferguson 165

Hello all,
Just bought a what I was told is a 1974 Massey Ferguson 165. Problem is I can't seem to narrow down the serial number.
The data plate has CDW643012474 as the serial number. It has the Perkins AD4.203 diesel, 2 remote hydraulics, and multi-power.
Appears to have a 2 stage clutch, but the tranny dip stick shows hardly no oil in the transmission, so I don't want to move it to much until I correct that, along with some other issues, none really major as of yet.
ptfarmer, if you read this, this is the tractor I ask about about a week or so ago. Everyone else, please chime in and give me any hints or tips.
As of right now, the lift arms are disconnected from the yokes because they won't go down. So, first thing is to remove the lift cover and inspect for damage / wrong assembly,(p.o. told me he replaced some springs and such under the cover, didn't use a new gasket, red RTV for a sealer).
Any and all help will be appreciated. Haven't ordered the repair manual yet, so, if anyone has diagrams they can scan and convert to PDF, it will be greatly appreciated

Sorry for the long post, wanted to put out as much info as possible...

Thanks All,
Roger
 
(quoted from post at 19:48:38 08/08/15) Book shows it's a 1966. In 1967 MF started with the 9A numbers for that model.

That figures as the p.o. didn't know very much about it and to verify what Commercial Farmer noted, it does have round axles.

Thanks for the info guys...

Roger
 
The square axle housings are cast iron, the round are malleable iron. The cast iron housings have to be thicker, and heavier to be as strong as malleable iron. Even though the cast iron is thicker it will just break, but thinner malleable iron will bend before it breaks. Like they say "they don't build them like they used to".
 
Okay, so now I know it's a 1966 model with round axles. Now the hiccup.
As stated earlier,the p.o. (supposedly) did some work on the top cover. I've ordered the repair & operators manuals(probably take about 2 weeks as the last ones did), but I decided to begin the basic tear down of the top cover, i.e. remove the seat & remote hyd control valve.
Well guess what, I took the front bolt out of valve body and when I loosened the rear bolt I noticed a movement in the lift yokes!! When I applied hand pressure, the yokes dropped as they are supposed to do, of course milky oil pushed out of the top cover.
Now if I understand this correctly, as long as the engine is running, the hyd pump is running, supplying pressure the the lift and remotes if so fitted. What would cause pressure to remain on the lift piston preventing it from dropping when the quadrant handle is moved to the lower position?

You guys have been great in answering my questions, hope you can answer this one, cause I'm stumped...

Thanks,
Roger
 
On the remote is it a single lever valve (diverter valve) with the hose going to a spool valve that's mounted elsewhere, or does it have hoses (spool valve single, or dual lever) going directly to quick connects .
 
If it has the two spool bolt on valve body the left spool may have been set wrong for the three point to work. It must be locked back toward tractor rear for three point use. If it was in the center it pumps oil for the external cylinder use with the right hand lever. But remember the pump will shut off when the lift arms are up because of the internal linkage. That's why there's a constant pumping range on the quadrant, to override the linkage and keep the pump on. DON'T use it for three point work though or pump damage over time will result.
 
(quoted from post at 18:29:18 08/09/15) On the remote is it a single lever valve (diverter valve) with the hose going to a spool valve that's mounted elsewhere, or does it have hoses (spool valve single, or dual lever) going directly to quick connects .

It's the dual remotes with hoses going directly to the quick connects.
 

So, in order for the 3pt lift to work, the left remote handle has to be pulled reward. I know there are detent ball on both levers to allow it to be "locked" in the forward or reverse position.

Roger
 
(quoted from post at 04:35:30 08/10/15)
So, in order for the 3pt lift to work, the left remote handle has to be pulled reward. I know there are detent ball on both levers to allow it to be "locked" in the forward or reverse position.

Roger



Its real easy to bump that lever without knowing it making the 3 point inoperable, pull the left lever to the rear, and see if the 3 point will work. That's why I like the small diverter valve, and have the remote(s) mounted elsewhere.
 
Okay, so I've already pulled the remote valve body along with the stand pipe.
My question is, would the arms raise and not drop back down with the left lever in the center position?
I guess I could put it back together, but I really want to flush out that milky oil from the sump before I do that. Also, which side cover do I pull off to inspect everything? The left(sitting on the tractor) has the PTO lever and the right has another quadrant style lever for fast or slow response.
By the way, I have ordered the repair and operators manuals from this site, got an email this afternoon saying they have shipped, so they should be here by Friday.
Also, is there another oil filter that can be obtained from say a NAPA store for that diesel, it is a spin on, and it's the AD4.203. Really didn't want to have to order one and wait another week or so for it to come in.

Thanks again for all the replies.
Roger
 
Some people tie the lever to keep it back if they don't use the remote very much. It has to stay to the rear for the 3point to raise, and lower. With the lever in the center position closes off the hydraulics from the 3point lift arms.

You can remove the round covers on both sides of the transmission. On the left hand (pto lever) cover you can access the strainer for the hydraulic pump. Get all the old oil out that you can (you probably won't get every last bit of it out).

Your 165 since it's a 1966 year model the engine oil filter should have the canister type. If you want to, you can convert it to a spin on oil filter by changing the filter head that bolts to the engine block.
 
Thanks ptfarmer,
It has been converted to a spin-on, but I think I've found the replacemant, going by the measurements.
Got my books in today, perused them long enough to figure out how to get the top cover off. Took me a long minute, looking at the tractor and book, but I think I figured out why the 3pt would go up and not come down.
After studying and looking some more through the right side cover and studying some more, it dawned on me. the dang control valve lever was missing!!! Looking at page 2 of the Part 4 internal hydraulics section, figure 1, I realized that since the control valve lever was missing, there wouldn't be a roller to take out. So the control valve was not being moved to allow the lift to raise, then lower, hence, the arms would raise, and not lower. Simple now that I've removed every thing and can see it clearly.
There is nothing in the sump, I drained that and checked. Just can't figure why anyone would take all that off. I found the small control valve plunger with the hole in it, and it does move back and forth like it's supposed to, so maybe that is good.
Now for the million dollar question:
Does anyone know where I can find that control valve lever and roller, and anything else I need to get it put back together?

As always, any help, leads, advice will be greatly appreciated...
And if I need to post any pictures, just let me know. I got the top cover off this afternoon, so it's wide open.

Thanks again,
Roger
 
Thanks ptfarmer, that's the number I used to cross over. According to all the info I could find, the dimensions are the same as what is installed now. Plan on changing all the filters, air, oil, diesel, this weekend. Then back to the missing control valve lever on the hydraulic pump.
DavidP, South Wales posted a great picture showing the lever assembly on the pump, ( found it this morning), but now after searching the archives for over an hour, I can't find it again. It was for a 135, but they should be the same. Since mine is missing, I have only the parts break down to go by.
I think I've located all the parts, just need some help with getting it on the control valve correctly.

Thanks for all your help, and everyone else too.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Roger
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top