bell housing cotter pin

garymck

Member
I've asked this question before but am unclear about the answers. The cotter pin to permit drainage to protect the clutch is missing (has been for years although the hole is clear). Can I take off the 4 bolt plate just ahead of it on the underside be removed to replace the pin and can this be done without draining any fluids?
 
That 4 bolt plate can be removed without draining the oil, you are supposed to be able to adjust the clutch through that plate (but that doesn't mean that it's not holding a little oil that may have been leaking out the transmission).
 
I have a TO35, the cotter key in my tractor has finally broken off.

If I cannot replace the key in the drain hole, then if possible, I plan to drill a small
hole in the clutch adjustment plate and install a cotter key in it.

Years ago I got stuck, mud got in the drain hole and stopped it up, I did not drive the
tractor in grass for a while to turn the cotter key, oil built up and ruined my clutch.

That drain hole on an old Ferguson tractor is the operators best friend. They knew what
they were doing when they installed that drain hole and cotter key.
 
I had a thought, don't know... but could a person drill a similar size hole adjacent, put a cotter pin upin that hole, on a string, and get it over and down through the real hole??
 
There is no need for any elaborate process . The head of a cotter pin [ split pin in Australia ] is quite springy . Find a size to suit , force the head into the hole and about ten millimeters of the legs as well. Then spread the protruding legs on the outside of the casting as far as they will go . By doing this you will enlarge the size of the pin head within the casting . After this it is just a matter of using needle nosed pliers to re bend the legs to an acceptable shape remembering that it was supposed to be rotated by brushing past grass to keep the hole clear .
 
I have already tried three times pushing a suitable pin through the hole. The head was large so that I had to force it into the hole. I then pushed a small screwdriver up and twisted it to spread the head even further. Then I pried the legs of the cotter pin so they would turn in the grass. I tried manually several times to pull then out. There they remained. But each time when I returned from cutting the field, The pins were missing. Clearly one has to replace the cotter pin from the inside.
 

That is a shame , I have replaced a few on English grey Fergusons without one ever falling out . A few people I know have done the same with similar success . Perhaps the castings are different . Try it again but use a smaller rather than larger pin , this might work .
 
This is how I put one in my Massey 180, pushed a fine wire up from under neath to the access hole for adjusting the clutch. Put a hook on the end of the wire and slipped that in to the head of the cotter pin, laid the pin along the wire and taped the feet to the wire, pulled it into place with the wire, spread the ends and pulled out the wire with pliers.
 
NO need to fuss over the cotter pin. Simply check from time to time to verify the drain hole is open, and clean as necessary.
 
Good advise,

But as most of us know, we forget to check it, (out of site, out of mind).

I bought the lesson big time after getting stuck, even with the key in place, you have to drive through tall grass to keep the key turning to keep the hole open. Cost me a clutch.

I just did not realize it was plugged up with mud. And I did not drive through any grass.

Anytime you get the tractor stuck, you must check that drain hole key, to in sure it's open.
 
Jo,
That is my plan, had thought on it much, but that is what I was going to try.
I have a TO35, 1957 model, so I do not know if there is as much room in my transmission
housing as in your larger tractor.

I was going to use a steel cotter key, will try the pushing it up into the hole method,
but it seems the key would be too stiff to compress enough to get the head of the key
through the hole.

However, anything would be better than having the weep hole get stopped up, as what
happened to me. I surely cannot be the only person that has ever happen to?
Cost me a clutch!!!!!!!!!!
 
You got me thinking on this problem.

Could I hold the legs of the key with my pliers, then with a hammer drive the key up
into the hole? As long as the key head size is just large enough to compress, but
spring back once it's through the hole it might just stay in place.

I have tried a number of things, bent wires, to get something to stay in the drain hole,
but nothing ever worked.

Again, on an old Ferguson that open drain hole is one of your best friends!!!!!!!,

Thanks all for you post, you got me thinking on the problem again.

Note to file: on my last visit to harbor freight, I bought a large box of assorted cotter keys, so surly there is one size in there that will do the trick. If I can find it!!!!!
 
Just went out to barn and hung up a big brass cotter pin in visible place, to remind me to check it.
 
I think it would be entirely possible to place a new one from the inside by removing the inspection cover and with the right pair of pliers. I have a very long set of locking forceps that I think would be ideal for the job.
 
I now have tried a smaller cotter pin and enlarged the head while it is in the hole. If this does not work, I will try Inno's idea. I have a long handled vise grip that may work.
 
What I did was similiar to your idea. I used electrical wire with the rubber insulation wrapped arount it. (use a gauge of wire suited to the hole) An eight inch piece bent in half and inserted into the hole. Then with 2 pliers hold one end and push the other end in about 3/4 thereby enlarging the head inside the housing.and just bend the 2 ends out as needed. Works fine and just check time to time.
 

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