Massey Ferguson 65 piston cylinder moving?

I am looking for help on my MF65. To make a long story short. My rebuild tractor was smoking a lot with white smoke. So I tried everything I
could with the injectors. So I removed the head to see what I could find. First thing I had about 5 head bolts that was not tight. Then I was
looking at the head gasket. I seen a little blow by between #2 and #3 cylinder. Now I had a motor shop to do all my motor work. So he put new
sleeve and piston in. He did not surface the block or the head. I say all of that to say. I wanted turn over the engine just to see everything move
and the #2 piston sleeve came half the way out. So I knocked it back down and turn over the engine again and it came up again.
So my question is; can I just knock the sleeve down and the head will hold it down? Or is the some kind of glue that will hold that sleeve
down. Or I have to replace the sleeve. I have to old one that we took out. But I hate to have to go back into this motor. So what do you guys
think?

Something ain't right.
Sounds like you have an AD203, yes? Those are dry sleeves, and need to be chilled before they are installed because of the tight fit, and pressed to .001 to.009 below the deck of the block. If yours is coming up just from ring tension, I'd say your motor guy owes you a 'splanation.

Yes I have the AD203 motor. But if I take it back to my motor guy. I would have to remove everything off the motor. I trying not to do that. But if I have to. That what i have to do. But I was trying to see if I have any other options.

Hi,
Something is not correct. I am assuming that you have flanged liners which should be an interference fit in the parent bore.
Have you had this liner measured to be sure that you do not have a rogue liner that has been made too small? Was the old line of the correct fit? You are extremely lucky that the bottom piston ring did not open below the bottom face of the liner. Did you check the piston stand up/stand down before fitting? My information for the flanged liner in the 152 and 203 engines .004" above to .004" below the block face for cast iron liners. Ensuring that the flange is gripped correctly will not necessarily hold the liner tight in the bore but it will negate the chance of any blow-by. I have fitted liners in a number of engines that have pushed in quite easily by hand with just clean oil smeared on them. These have caused no problems in their service life. Perhaps what is more inportant is to ensure that the new rings have the correct cold service gap. This should be between .008 and .030" depending on the ring being checked. If the ring gap is zero or causes an interference fit in the bore that is likely to push a 'loose liner out.
In the event that you cannot resolve this issue the parent bore in question will require boring out so that an oversize .030" liner can be fitted.
Start off by measuring the bore and the liner and seeking advice from your supplier.
The parent bore size should be between 3.6875 and 3.6885".
Nominal liner bore is 3.6"
It is nor recommended for flanged liners in the 203 but Perkins use Loctite Retaining Compound Grade 640 on plain-sided liners used in some applications of the 152 and 203 engines.
Let us know how you get on.

DavidP, South Wales

DavidP,
Looking at the sleeve I do have scratches inside of the sleeves. And today the number 4 sleeve came up too. So it might be the rings are installed wrong. I can't locate my mic right this min to see what the number are on the sleeves. But if I need to reorder the Pistons and sleeve what should I order for a 1960 MF65 diesel with the 203. My injector are straight up and down. Or do you think I can set the ring gap and use some lecture and it would be ok. In your opinion?

To add to that. I just remove on of the sleeves and I think the sleeves are stainless steel on cast iron.

Probably chrome on cast. Be sure you have the proper ring set for chrome barrels.

Is your tractor US or English? If English, might want to confirm your engine by serial number. I have an English 1958 65, and it has an AD 192 rather than a 203. Not sure if the parent bores are different size or not.

The engine SN# is C37112210 and the tractor SN# CNM677863. The engine has another number stamped on it A295. Think it is a US tractor as far as I know.

The engine SN# is C37112210 and the tractor SN# CNM677863. The engine has another number stamped on it A295. Think it is a US tractor as far as I know.

On the tractor serial number its a 1960 year model U.S. tractor. Your engine serial number C37112210, is that number raised, or is it stamped. On the 4.203 the serial number is usually stamped on the back of the block just above the bell housing.

Hi,
Clearly you now have the head off again. The first thing I would do is to remove the rings from the piston and place each one squarely in the liner when fitted to the block. Using a feeler gauge measure the gaps to see if they fall within the specified.
The info that I have for the AD4.203 engine is;
Chrome liner
Ring set 41158058, 745 819M91
Finished liner 31358308, 732 638M1

Cast Iron liner
Ring set 41158057, 745 818M91
Finished liner 31358345, 739 043M1

AD4.203 up to U589378L
Ring set 41158057, 745 818M91
Finished liner 31358345, 739 043M1
If you can tie any of the numbers up and have the correct ring gaps then that can be removed as a possible cause of the liners moving....other than of course the natural expansion of the rings.
DavidP