MF 135 steady stream of fluid from weep hole

rnccen

Member
I have a MF 135, which unfortunately was over filled with UTF. It was run for about 1.5 hrs with brush hog. I went out and found a steady stream of fluid (UTF) from the weep hole.

What likely damage has been done?

As for repairs, what are my options?

Can I drain all the fluid and refill? Likely hood of no issues?

If I need to replace seals (which ones likely went)?

If I need to have case split, what are the average costs?

i have the service manual and parts manual but am not in the position to split (if necessary, would need to go to a shop)

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Paul
 

It seemed to shift fine....are there signs or indicators that the UTF impacted the clutch?

I checked the dip stick and it appears it that the UTF has gone down quite a bit to the point of no longer reading on the dip stick...leading me to think that some seal has gone for that amount of fluid to run out (unless it is possible the UTF gets pressurizes in that chamber and more is forced out than just the overfill?)

The parts manual does not show me if there is some wall or plate separating the transmission and weep hole area or if there is a plate that goes up part way to contain the UTF in the transmission/hydraulic area then excess flows over the top down into the weep hole area?

I opened the rear drain and fluid came out along with the front drain still, which I hope is a good sign..

I have been reading through the service manuals but can't find anything about this issue.
 
My old TO35 will drop oil from that drain hole if the transmission is over filled.

I would open the drain plug and drain out the excess fluid, keep your fluid level at the
mid point on your dipstick.

Note: lift arms should be in the down position when checking the fluid level,

if you check fluid with lift arms in the high position and fill the sump, when you let
the arms down, the sump will be over filled.

It takes a while for the oil level to stabilize, for best results check the oil level
after the tractor has been setting overnight in a level area.

Always check that drain drip hole, it is one of your best friends, mine got stopped up
once with mud after I got stuck, did not realize it was plugged, did not drive in grass
to turn cotter key, oil got on the clutch.
 
On my old TO35 all three: transmission, hydraulic, differential sumps are connected
together and use the same oil.

Your tractor is much newer, so maybe you do have separate sumps, my old AC D-14 had
separate sumps.

Good luck, hope you did not soak the clutch
 
(quoted from post at 04:31:23 06/30/15) My old TO35 will drop oil from that drain hole if the transmission is over filled.

I would open the drain plug and drain out the excess fluid, keep your fluid level at the
mid point on your dipstick.

Note: lift arms should be in the down position when checking the fluid level,

if you check fluid with lift arms in the high position and fill the sump, when you let
the arms down, the sump will be over filled.

It takes a while for the oil level to stabilize, for best results check the oil level
after the tractor has been setting overnight in a level area.

Always check that drain drip hole, it is one of your best friends, mine got stopped up
once with mud after I got stuck, did not realize it was plugged, did not drive in grass
to turn cotter key, oil got on the clutch.

I drained all the fluid out and put 5 gallons back in, same thing steady stream from the weep hole....I suspect that the seals are gone.

I also noted that there was fluid coming out from where the starter mounts to the housing....so I suspect that the clutch is also soaked.

it is a 1964 MF 135...so now I have to figure out the clutch the and size and other aspects along with figuring out which of the transmissions is mine so I can order the respective parts from somewhere before I locate a mechanic in San Antonio as the MF dealer is quite some distance away and is backed up until Sept.
 
Sounds right to me, if oil is still running out,

when I got oil on the clutch I did see oil coming out around the starter, also noticed
the clutch started to slip, tractor would no longer pull ground engaging tools. However
it would pull it self around in the barn yard.

Does your tractor have a hydraulic pump oil filter, if so you want to replace it while
you are 're doing your clutch.
 
(quoted from post at 18:41:19 06/30/15)
I drained all the fluid out and put 5 gallons back in, same thing steady stream from the weep hole....I suspect that the seals are gone.

I also noted that there was fluid coming out from where the starter mounts to the housing....so I suspect that the clutch is also soaked.

it is a 1964 MF 135...so now I have to figure out the clutch the and size and other aspects along with figuring out which of the transmissions is mine so I can order the respective parts from somewhere before I locate a mechanic in San Antonio as the MF dealer is quite some distance away and is backed up until Sept.




Where in San Antonio are you? I'm on the south east side of SA.
 

I am on the South West side, out near 1604...any chance you have done this repair on a 135 and are interested in some extra $?
 
I've done it quite a few times, it's not really hard to split as you may think (I'd rather do a clutch on tractor than a car, or truck). Having a big enough, flat concrete surface really makes the job a lot easier than doing it on un-even dirt. Right now I have about 1 more week of work until I have the time, and space. I use my garage at my house in the city so I cant have too many jobs going at one time. On a job like yours I'd also replace the rear main seal on the engine while the clutch is being replaced. I can always use the extra $$
 
(quoted from post at 11:34:41 07/02/15) I've done it quite a few times, it's not really hard to split as you may think (I'd rather do a clutch on tractor than a car, or truck). Having a big enough, flat concrete surface really makes the job a lot easier than doing it on un-even dirt. Right now I have about 1 more week of work until I have the time, and space. I use my garage at my house in the city so I cant have too many jobs going at one time. On a job like yours I'd also replace the rear main seal on the engine while the clutch is being replaced. I can always use the extra $$

PTFarmer, I'd be interested in your services as I don't know any mechanics in the area...I don't have a slab to work on as I just finished building the house.

I'd like to replace the clutch, rear main seal, and input shaft seals (where the leak is I suspect) while it is split...only makes sense.

I am going to order all the parts though the clutch I am not sure what type/size unless that can be determined from the serial number?

If you can send me your contact info via email, if you are interested we can work on the particulars. I have a week off from work in about 2 weeks.

Regards,

Paul
 
For a 1964 135 it can be one of three different clutches, a single clutch, a dual clutch, or split torque clutch.

The single clutch you need to have a over run clutch on the pto out put shaft so when you push in the clutch you can stop the tractor.

The dual clutch you can push the clutch pedal down about half way to shift gears, and then you have to push the pedal all the way down to the floor plate to engage, or disengage the pto (live pto).

The split torque clutch you can engage, and disengage the pto without having to push the clutch pedal at all (independent pto).

I would almost bet you probably have a dual clutch (live pto).
 

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