MF 180 clutch adjustment

Been trying to adjust the free travel as the book says, but every time I try it out the shaft goes back to origilal position. Used a grinder to widen the slot where it clamps and a new bolt. Thightened it down with an eighteen inch rachet and still it goes back with just one push of the clutch. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Brad
 
I've never seen that trouble before. I wonder if it needs pulled apart and clean any oil or grease from the shaft and the arm bore. Is this the single or two stage clutch tractor?
 
I will have to get someone to watch it tomorrow. I would guess the second stage because it gets much harder to push at the end. Not my tractor so not familiar with what is normal. To much free travel is causing grinding to get it in gear.
 
First stage is coil spring transmission clutch, second stage is belville type PTO clutch, and pedal will push harder as the second stage is picked up to be released. Is trans or PTO hard to shift, or both? May need to remove the plate under the clutch and adjust the PTO release bolts in the trans clutch pressure plate.
 
That is a new one on me also, have you confirmed that the adjustment is actualy slipping on the outside of the clutch housing?
The alternative is that something strange has happened to the clutch throw out bearing or it's yoke inside the clutch housing.
 
I'd check the gap on all three bolts now as is, spec is .080 but .060 inch works well. As the trans clutch disc wears the gap increases. With pedal down to stop both clutches will the transmission shift any better? If so the pilot bearing may be bad, and/or the trans clutch disc is coming apart, pieces are bunching up and turning the disc when there should be clearance. Take a look inside under the four bolt cover, if there's lot's of dust and lining bits it's time for a clutch..
 
We've had two real head-busters with these clutches dragging on the transmission side. One - a new OEM disc - would not release to shift without grinding. Tractor stopped ok.

Finally found it on the third split. The chap who put it in forced the tractor together and pushed the center forward so it rubbed very slightly on the pilot bearing - just enough to spin it under no-load conditions. On the third split I found the slight polish on the center boss of the clutch where it had been rubbing.

The second problem was a rebuilt disc, would hardly release under load. This one turned out to be bent - it had about .030 runout at the outer edge. We now check all discs for runout before installing or replacing.

If we live long enough, we'll find most of these oddballs....!
 
Hi Brad,
There may be a simple answer. I have had this happen once on a 165. Slacken and remove the clamp bolt. Remove the pedal and make sure that the shaft and pedal eye are perfectly clean and free of any oil. My one was oiled and the film of oil was just enough to allow the pedal to slip even when fully tightened. The pedal pressure required will normally be increased as you enter the second stage of the clutch. If the pedal feels solid at this point it will be necessary to remove the inspection plate and watch the operation whilst an assistant operates the pedal. Ensure that there is clearance on the 3 equally spaced adjuster screws. That clearance will be zero at the beginning of the second stage. The PTO pressure plate will then begin to move.
Let us know what you find.

DavidP, South Wales
 

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