MF35 rebuilt z134 will not start

johnb

Member
Had a continental z134 gas engine from a 1961 MF35 rebuilt in an automotive machine shop and it will not start. It ran before but had low oil pressure and needed clutch work, so while I had it apart I had it rebuilt. It seems to be getting spark and the carb was also rebuilt and seems to be getting gas, but it will not fire over. After trying to start it I can pull out a spark plug and it is dry, no gas on it. Could it be the carb? Could it be the new cam? Has anyone heard of a cam being made wrong? I pulled off the valve cover and slowly turned the engine over and compared the valve movement with the lobes on the old cam and it looked right. I also towed it around the field a few times and it sounded like it was out of time, but the timing mark lines up with the number 1 plug wire and I have already switched the wires to see if it is 180 degrees out. I am stumped. Any suggestions?
 
Keep fiddling with the timing. Your hunch was always my first guess, timing 180 out. Never looks it but always is. Have someone crank it over while you slowly turn the dist cap by hand, I bet it just needs to find its sweet spot. Good luck!
 
Easy way to make sure when flywheel is at TDC to find cylinder #1 is on compression is watch the #4 rocker arms as 1 and 4 are at TDC together, but the cam determines which one is ready to fire. When #4 rockers are on the overlap at TDC you KNOW #1 is ready to fire, then set the distributor rotor aligned to #1 with points just breaking contact. Works for inline sixes too..
 
To check that the timing is set as #1 piston is coming up on TDC, remove the coil wire from the coil and also remove the spark plugs. Bump the starter button several times while holding a finger over the #1 spark plus hole. As #1 piston comes up on compression you can feel the pressure building against your finger. Now keep turning the engine in the same direction by hand using the fan or a crank until the correct timing mark on the flywheel lines up in the sight hole in the front of the bell housing. You can now set the timing by rotating the distributor until the points just start to open. Using a continuity test light will give you the exact spot.

I would also check that you are getting fuel to the carburetor. If so, the inlet needle valve could be stuck closed and not letting fuel into the carb. Sometimes tapping the carb on top over where the needle valve is will jar it loose to let fuel in.
 
Static timing should be set at 6 degrees BTDC. Also, when installing the spark wires from distrib. to the plugs keep in mind that the distributor rotor turns counterclockwise.
 
I have tried all of the above suggestions. The plugs are not wet so it looks like the gas is not getting past the carb. The motor seems to have enough suction and there is gas in the carb up to where it seems like it should be. Why would the motor not be pulling up fuel?
 
So the condenser is good, there is spark to the plugs? Hey even trying to start the heat it makes will evaporate what gas they are trying to find...
and you have good compression because it was 'properly' rebuilt..... do you choke the carb? I don't care if you are in the tropics in a searing broiling sun... sometimes a Continental needs a solid choke on the first start of the day. I have 8 fergies with Z engines, one F, and all but one need a choke on the first fire up of the day. Sad but true...
 
FIXED IT! I found that the key was not put on the cam shaft to hold the cam gear in place. It was close and held on somewhat by the tension of the nut, but was slowly moving and getting even more out of time. I fixed it for one dollar. Took me forever to figure it out. Thanks to everyone that tried to help. Tractor runs great now, since I replaced everything that could possibly be replaced trying to figure this out. Johnb.
 
That's great news John, and real satisfactory feeling I'll bet! Now we're going to need some pictures. :)
 

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