Inframe on M-F 230

Super51

Member
Doing an Inframe on M-F 230 with AD3.152 3 cylinder Perkins diesel engine,just needing info on what rings to use Cast or Chrome!Do kits come with a choice,have heard chrome takes longer to seat than cast iron,what would you guy's that have more experience than me on diesel's reccomend on rings? Thank's!
 
If you replace the sleeves and buy a kit it will come with the proper rings to match with the sleeves. Personally I would never just put in rings if I had the engine apart. IMO
 
Yes that was my intention to start with,looking at bore and feeling with finger nail I can feel a very slight ridge at top of bore,walls look good but rings have to be broken!Blowby is so bad it was pushing oil out of dipstick hole when removed,someone must have used starting fluid on this engine quite a bit,it belongs to my niece and her husband,have told them before not to use starting fluid on these engines because have heard these engines will preignite on starting fluid and break rings,probably what happened to it!I will go ahead and get the proper inframe kit for it,I agree with you Phil,to far to go to just replace ring's!Thank's for your help!
 
You only use cast iron piston ring on cylinders that have only been honed. If it's new sleeves, or has been over bored before honing then you can use chrome rings. Chrome rings won't seat into bores that have only been honed as the bores are hardened from the heat, and cool cycles the engine goes through. On re-bores (and new sleeves) soft cast iron is exposed allowing the chrome ring seat into the bore.
 
That makes sense on ring seating,I may have to seek more help on this forum before I get this done!Going to check on YT parts site for an inframe kit and go that route,I do appreciate the help ptfarmer & Phil Tibbetts! Thank's!
 
don't know about the kits now a days, but they use to be available with chrome or cast rings and sleeves you had to make sure NOT to use chrome on chrome they would never seat, any other combination would work,also if you change sleeves don't chip the old ones out if you do you're sure to ding up the cylinder, and if not cleared up proper the new sleeve can be distorted or cracked as they are real thin, or worse honing too much and the sleeve will be to lose ,best to bore them out or find a sleeve puller, be sure which sleeves you get as some have to be bored and piston hone fitted after installation
 
(quoted from post at 05:42:10 04/06/15) don't know about the kits now a days, but they use to be available with chrome or cast rings and sleeves you had to make sure NOT to use chrome on chrome they would never seat, any other combination would work,also if you change sleeves don't chip the old ones out if you do you're sure to ding up the cylinder, and if not cleared up proper the new sleeve can be distorted or cracked as they are real thin, or worse honing too much and the sleeve will be to lose ,best to bore them out or find a sleeve puller, be sure which sleeves you get as some have to be bored and piston hone fitted after installation
I will get on phone and ask about any kit I buy if they are ready to install,I have a friend that has sleeve pullers,may have to order the puck for 3.6 bore,also will lightly hone and clean block bore,do you recomend oiling the bore for sleeve? Thank's for the great information gbs!
 
BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE careful using a hone on the cylinders the sleeves are thin and interference fit to hold them in place if some one else honed them close to the max i.d. then you can easily over do it,2 incidents I remember off hand are a neighbor had a AC tractor dealer overhauled less than a year latter he had a sleeve in the oil pan,i had set installed by a machine shop and when I went to wipe it out to install the pistons one of them can out with my arm,be sure the sleeves you get have the same height flange at the top of the sleeve so the protrusion if any is required above the block will be correct ,iv'e seen several different techniques to install them with out a press, best I've used was get the block to room temperature apply a light coat of oil to the cylinders, freeze the sleeves in a freezer or[dry ice works the best]remove one from the freezer QUICKLY push it ALL THE WAY in the block until they seat firm against the flange,some may need a slight persuasion with and 2" thick OAK board and a hammer if they warm up which they do fairly quick it's possible they will seize and can't be moved without a press to avoid damage.
 
(quoted from post at 15:53:26 04/06/15) When replacing sleeves you don't need to hone anything.
Ok I wont hone anything sure dont want to make them too loose,just clean and lightly lubricate them,I will also check flange height!That freezing and or dry ice sounds like that should help a lot,understand have to be fast before they warm up,sure dont want to get them stuck anywhere but the seat!I will be getting back from time to time to ask question's and let you know how it goe's! Thank,s guy's!
 

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