1957 ferguson to35 wiring diagram

I am brand new here and I have looked everywhere for a wiring diagram for my 57 ferguson to35. I basically need a diagram for the switch wiring both key and push button, voltage regulator and the wiring for the coil.Also for the dash guages. Ammeter and temp. Any help will be greatly appreciated. My machine has the continental z134 gas engine
 
You're quite welcome. Good luck, and welcome to the forum. There are lots of folks here with years of experience who will be able to help with any questions. (Not me, I'm afraid!)
 
I'd just caution you, I have a 1997 MF-240-S, and the wiring diagrams I can find are close to what I find on the tractor, but not exact by any means. I find things not on any diagram, and mine is factory original, best as I can figure.
 
(quoted from post at 13:05:38 04/01/15) You're quite welcome. Good luck, and welcome to the forum. There are lots of folks here with years of experience who will be able to help with any questions. (Not me, I'm afraid!)
I appreciate all your help the wiring diagram I found on that site seems to be exactly what I need but now I have a nother problem it appears my governor is shot and I have no idea where it is or how hard it is to change. any help with that issue would be extremely appreciated
 
Governor could need adjusting its up front of engine. You will need a manual before tackling that problem.
 
describe what your tractor is doing for you to determine the governor is bad or needs adjustment.

I to have a 1957 TO35 similar to yours,

my understanding of a properly operating governor.

Tractor motor is at operating temperature.
example 1:
with the disc mounted, you drop disc into the dirt and pull the throttle, the motor rpm increases and the tractor pull on, does not bog down.
example 2:
you traveling along in 1 high at mid throttle, you step on both brakes and the motor rpm increases, not bog down.

when the load is apply to the motor the governor increases the fuel to the carb automatically.

others, if I am wrong on this operation of the governor, please advise.

without a properly operating governor the tractor would be difficult to drive.
 
(quoted from post at 06:07:54 04/02/15) describe what your tractor is doing for you to determine the governor is bad or needs adjustment.

I to have a 1957 TO35 similar to yours,

my understanding of a properly operating governor.

Tractor motor is at operating temperature.
example 1:
with the disc mounted, you drop disc into the dirt and pull the throttle, the motor rpm increases and the tractor pull on, does not bog down.
example 2:
you traveling along in 1 high at mid throttle, you step on both brakes and the motor rpm increases, not bog down.

when the load is apply to the motor the governor increases the fuel to the carb automatically.

others, if I am wrong on this operation of the governor, please advise.

without a properly operating governor the tractor would be difficult to drive.
Thanks for the reply. The guts of my governor were in the oil pan. Part of the finned wheel that the balls run in was broken off and I found it yesterday when I removed the pan to pull the pistons. I need to replace it and was wondering what all that entailed. How do I get to it and are there any special tools required. Again thanks so much.
 
Here is a picture of the governor. It is under the front engine cover and attached to the camshaft gear. I haven't had to change one yet as I haven't had one break, but the procedure is in the service book and doesn't appear difficult.

Dan
a187995.jpg
 
And Dan, thank you for the photo. Got a call from my machine shop and they said my cylinder head is going to need a valve overhaul kit. Any leads on the most economic way to proceed. I got into fixing this tractor with a semi limited budget and with the governor being bad, I'm afraid I'm gonna run low on funds and it'll just sit. Thanks again.
 
Are you working on a full rebuild or are you just trying to fix whats broke? What was the reason the head went to a machine shop? I have only had one head done and the shop I took it to bought and installed the valves themselves. That was a few years ago and I can't remember what it cost, or if it would have been cheaper to buy the valves myself.

I hadn't looked in a while, but wow, the cost of the governor kit has really gone up! I'm pretty sure many years ago those used to be below $100. I thought they got high when they jumped to $150 or so, now they are over $200... Maybe you can find a serviceable used one on ebay if you are on a tight budget.

I'm sure you already know this, but you really should get the service book if you are doing a lot of work on the engine. If you need it, send me your Email, I can scan in the governor section and send it to you.

Dan
 
the kid needs a valve kitI am putting new rings in itI checked the crank and the main bearings and they are goodI did not intend to have to take the front of the motor off but now I will apparently have to
 
As a point of information, the picture Dan S posted shows the engine block upside down. New governors for the MF and MH 50 are available from TISCO for less than $150. There are also several reputable sellers on ebay that have them listed for less than $100. I would be wary of buying a used governor as it could be worn and within a short time you could be replacing it again. To replace the governor, as was mentioned earlier, you will need access to the timing cover on the front of the engine. This entails removing the hood and side panels, the air cleaner and radiator. It sounds as if you may already be at this point. To remove the timing cover you will need to remove the crankshaft pulley. To get enough clearance to do so, you may have to remove the front axle housing or at least loosen the bolts and move it forward. It is best to get a service manual to do this job as it will also outlines how to adjust the governor linkage after the new governor is installed. While your there, I would also install a new front crankshaft seal. They are not expensive and it is the perfect time to do so.
 
I replied to your Email yesterday. Sometimes Spam filters grab things so just making sure you got it.

Dan
 
After my posting below I did find some of those Ebay sellers with new governors at much lower prices. There is a huge discrepancy in prices out there at the moment.

Dan
 
thank you everyone for the help. I found a governor on ebay for $89 and purchase did the seller states that it is a brand new item so I'm hoping that's what I will getalso I had the hood off and the front axle housing ready to be pulledas soon as I get a chance and a day when its not rainingstill waiting on a few more parts to finish my engine build and for the head to get back from the machine shop but hopefully when all things are in I will be able to put this baby back together and my grandfather's Ferguson to 35 will sing again.
 
I have another question and I would very very very much like some insight as I am becoming frustrated. I am working on my pistons because my ring kit came in removed all the rings and was cleaning the grooves started to rering them and the kit that I have has a top ring that appears to be slightly larger than the ring groove. But only for the top ring. Any help is as always greatly appreciated
 
I have only ever bought sleeve/piston/ring kits where they are all matched together so I haven't encountered this problem. Taking apart various engines over the years, I have seen several styles of pistons used in the same engine type and always figured the differences where from old rebuilds using whatever the new pistons looked like at the time. Maybe there where slight variations along the way in ring thickness. You could call your ring supplier and see if they have specs on what the ring thickness should be, and make sure you got the right ones.

You might start a new posting on the forum about this so people with more experience will see this as a new question. They may not notice your new posting buried in this older thread.

Dan
 
(quoted from post at 10:00:59 04/07/15) I have only ever bought sleeve/piston/ring kits where they are all matched together so I haven't encountered this problem. Taking apart various engines over the years, I have seen several styles of pistons used in the same engine type and always figured the differences where from old rebuilds using whatever the new pistons looked like at the time. Maybe there where slight variations along the way in ring thickness. You could call your ring supplier and see if they have specs on what the ring thickness should be, and make sure you got the right ones.

You might start a new posting on the forum about this so people with more experience will see this as a new
question. They may not notice your new posting buried in this older thread.

Dan
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who helped me get my 57 Ferguson up and running. I drove her for the first time in 5 years today.
 

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