transmission cotter pin revisited

garymck

Member
I managed to force a cotter pin into the whole but it may not stay. Some have mentioned taking off the inspection plate to try to replace the pin. Is one talking about the side inspection plate or the 4 bolt plate cover under the engine further toward the front of the tractor? In any case, the fluid would have to be drained. Any comments?
 
The 4 bolt plate on the under side of the tractor provides access to the bell housing area which should be a dry space. There is no need to drain the tranny oil before you take that plate off. All of my Masseys have the cotter pin installed from the inside down through to the outside.
 
Gary, Bob,

I am the one who mention the weep hole got plugged with mud when I got stuck, I did not know it was plugged and did not drive in any grass for a while, driving in grass is what turns the key . Next thing I know, oil on the clutch.

Yes, my front transmission seal does leak, if you fill transmission to full. I normally keep level at mid way on the dip stick.

All that said, it was years ago:

As time has gone on and I have driven the tractor over many a log, whatever, the up side down cotter key is now gone and I would like to replace it. My current plan, each time I fuel the tractor, I check the weep hole with a piece of wire to insure it remains open and fully operational, as it is one of my best friends, as a owner of an old TO35.

If I can't thread the new cotter key into its proper place by taking off the underside plate.

then I will drill a hole in the underside plate and mount a proper cotter key in it, anything to insure I have transmission weep hole drainage.

Based on my experience, you must insure your tractor has proper open transmission weep hole drainage.
 
Bob:

I asked the question regarding a MF35 (which I have) but the issue really applies to my 1955 TO35. They have the same Continental engines and therefore share the same issue.
 
Like my boy says, "thinkin' outside the fence". Why wouldn't this work? Alongside the first hole, you drill a same-sized second hole, and make sure somehow you get all the filings etc. out.
Then you feed a stout piece of heavy wire, bent into a circle, up the first hole, over, and down the second hole. Wrap it together in a stout knot, voila, fixed?????
 
For that matter, since we'rre just trying to drain oil out, drill a pretty big hole, feed a wire / cotter pin / whatever up and over to the first hole, get that cotter pin in, THEN tap threads into the bigger hole, and plug it up with a bolt.
 
might work,

interesting, engineers must have planned transmission leakage into the building of the tractors.

Or they would not have placed a drainage hole in the bottom of the transmission housing.

my understanding is as follows: the legs of the cotter key turn in the grass as the tractor rolls along, this turning action of the cotter key, keeps the drain hole open!!!!!!!!

this is just my thoughts, but since my tractor does not have an operational cotter key in place at the time, I do check the hole each time I fuel the tractor or most times I fuel the tractor, or when I think of it, you know what I mean.

I do plan on working on this project when I get time, it's about 3 years now since I noticed the cotter key was gone and have not replaced it yet. so I must be a very busy guy.

but note to file, it cost me big time when oil got on the clutch!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Yes, oil on clutch=$$$$ and lots of time. I replaced the trans. seal when I re-did the clutch on mine and like you, I do NOT overfill the transmission. So far so good, that was a couple years ago now. I don't see that it would be all that difficult to remove the inspection plate and fit a new cotter pin. If a bunch of oil comes out, the damage is probably already done to your clutch. It also wrecked my starter.
 

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