three point, I need some help

I have a 71 model 30 industrial I purchased. I'm told the hydraulics/three point is the same as a MF 65? The three point does not function. nothing happens when you try to raise lift arms. Oil is real milky. What kind of oil and how much does it hold in hydraulics. I ordered a OP
manual. Could I have a plugged filter or a shot pump?

The filter is ordinarily just a screen if there is one, so it would take a LOT to plug it. The fact that the oil is milky is indicative that there is water in it. How much and the temperature of the tractor (below freezing) might make a difference.

The pump may be shot, but the more likely option is the draft control levers may not be in a suitable operating position. If you can post a picture of the quadrant levers at the right side of the seat and the hydraulic valve (if any) in front of the seat, we'd have more info to go on.

As to your other question, the oil to use would be Perma-tran (UTF), and going from memory, it takes about 8 gallons.

Thanks for the reply. I guess no one else wants to comment? O well. I drained the milk out and pulled the pto cover and took out the gunky screen/filter. I have worked with the draft control levers and there is no responce at all. There is no remote valve below the seat. I started to pull the top tran cover. I took out the bolts but it still seems solid. Do I need to remove the four nuts off the studs also? Thanks. Dick in Oregon

Here is some pics

I looks like the bolts where that seat bracket still need to come out. You probably could check to see if its pumping through the side cover.

Ok, I'm a little jealous - you're working on a tractor outside, and I'm chucking wood in a stove to keep the -15 at bay.

Before you pull the cover, look in from the right side access hole and see if moving the two quadrant levers move the long levers going to the pump pressure lever. With the pump lever in "constant pumping" position, operate the position control lever and watch what response you get. If working normally the pump lever should go rearwards in the lift position, roughly central in the neutral and forward when lowering.

David P has also posted photos of how the system works, but I can't seem to locate them in search (yet)

Anyway, to continue disassembly, in the bottom picture the 4 bolts holding your seat bracket need to be removed to get the cover off. The 4 nuts on the front of the cover hold the lift cylinder. Those shouldn't be removed until you get the cover off. The It's gonna be heavy, so use a short loop of chain between the left side of the draft control pin (back yoke on cover) and one of the bolts where the hydraulic tube cap is (front right corner). Use a come-along and/or 3pt boom pole from another tractor to pick it (and re-place it).

The tube that goes from the pump to the top cover has an O ring and nylon backing ring on each end. These can fail and may prevent lift operation. There is also an O ring between the lift cylinder and the top cover, but I doubt that is the problem or you'd hear the oil hissing.

There is more to check, but you now have a little more info, and I have to go do some chores.

Thanks for responding. Sorry about the weather!! Where are you. I'm in S Oregon. It got up to 60 today. I was working in a t shirt. My shop is full or I would have the MF in the shop. You mentioned R access door. Is that the PTO shifter cover or on the other side? I figured I would pull the cover and take a look at the pump and clean up the milky gunk. With cover off I can use some solvent and brush.

On the right hand side where the dipstick is for the tans/hyd you need to pull that cover off. After you get that cover off you can see the linkage, move the levers for the 3 pt while looking through the hole, you should see some movement. Before you pull the top cover first you should see a little roller about a 1" wide with a little groove, wrap a piece of wire around one of the grooves of the roller that you can hold on to it while you remove it by gently spreading the two arms holding it in place.

Next, on the top cover there is a cover that's held on with two bolts, take the bolts out, and pull the little cover. There is a small metal tube that runs to the little cover, it may come out with the cover, or you can pull it out by reaching into the right side, push it up, and take it out.

Do not remove the four nuts near the front of the top cover, it holds the cylinder that raises the 3 pt to the top cover.

Next, raise the lift arms by hand all the way up, and put alignment marks on the arms, and top cover (chisel marks is better than a marker). After marking let the lift arms back down.

Next, make sure you remove all the bolts around the perimeter of the top cover. Then get a hoist (the cover is heavy), and carefully lift the cover off. When you start to lift the lift the cover it has to go backwards a little bit at first (having a helper working the lift slowly while pulling the cover helps a lot). Take you time pulling the cover, pay close attention to the lever, and linkage under the cover when lifting it off (it's somewhat easy to damage the 3 pt linkage when pulling the cover, and putting it back on).

Hi Dick,

I'm in western NY, in the snow belt just off the southeast end of Lake Erie. Average snowfall here is about 170"/year. We may go slightly above average this year, but certainly not record setting (over 219"). Probably opposite for temperature - slightly colder than average, but not record setting overall. Fortunately, the snow settles a lot, and usually melts some over the course of the winter so in most places (at the moment) it's only 2-3' deep, though over 5' where drifted. Makes life interesting.

Back to your tractor:
On the opposite side of the case as the pto lever cover is the cover PTFarmer was talking of. The small roller he mentions may or may not be loose. Mine could not be removed without damaging the arms holding it. Others seem to have had trouble with it falling out into the bottom of the case once lever tension is removed.

If you can start the tractor, check and see if the shaft running through the pump is turning (input and output side). There may be a problem with the drive coupling at the front of the pump. I'm not sure about the '71 Industrial model, but Ag models of the '60's had a 2-part clutch: first stage (low clutch pedal position) for hydraulics and PTO, and second stage (mid pedal position) for transmission. If yours is equipped so, it's remotely possible the pto clutch has failed.

Let us know what you find.

Got the cover lifted about 3=4" I will lift it clear off with hoist tomorrow. If I lift the lift arms up and down, what looks like a rod that would be connected to the piston is loose and not conected to anything? Not sure if it is supposed to be connected to the piston. Be easier to see when I lift cover off.

I might be a little late now but did you happen to drain some of the oil out then try starting it and look in through the access hole. I have a mf65 and when I did that there was oil shooting out of the hydraulic pump spraying all over. Milky oil means water in oil. when I bought this tractor the hydraulics were very weak so I drained 3 gallons out. The first 2 gallons were water and then 1 gallon of oil. I haven't had time to fix this one but I suppose it froze and broke with that much water in it.

Steven

(quoted from post at 18:56:11 02/16/15) Got the cover lifted about 3=4" I will lift it clear off with hoist tomorrow. If I lift the lift arms up and down, what looks like a rod that would be connected to the piston is loose and not conected to anything? Not sure if it is supposed to be connected to the piston. Be easier to see when I lift cover off.

Click to expand...

The rod is not connected to the piston, that's the way they are.

If I lift the lift arms up and down, what looks like a rod that would be connected to the piston is loose and not conected to anything? Not sure if it is supposed to be connected to the piston.

Click to expand...

That's the "dog bone". It's pinned at the rockshaft end, and has a polished ball end that nests in the center of the cylinder piston. If lifted manually, the dog bone 'floats' in cylinder, but shouldn't ever drop out of it as the pivot the other end of the dog bone bracket hard stops on the top cover.

(quoted from post at 15:46:58 02/17/15)

If I lift the lift arms up and down, what looks like a rod that would be connected to the piston is loose and not conected to anything? Not sure if it is supposed to be connected to the piston.

Click to expand...

That's the "dog bone". It's pinned at the rockshaft end, and has a polished ball end that nests in the center of the cylinder piston. If lifted manually, the dog bone 'floats' in cylinder, but shouldn't ever drop out of it as the pivot the other end of the dog bone bracket hard stops on the top cover.

Click to expand...

X2 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^