1969 (approximate year) MF 135 Diesel Been Sitting

rbhuntn

Member
Hi all,

My Dad has a MF135 Diesel that he has let sit semi covered for the several years (number of years unknown). I am giving consideration to getting this tractor back up and usable for him as he in 79 and not in the best of health. Considering this to help him keep his place up a bit better (I would help him but live 6 hours away plus he won't let me). It will also help him stay a bit more active now that Mom has passed I hope. He is not willing to mess with it himself.

Any suggestions as to what I need to be looking at other than standard fluid changes, drain and replace the old fuel adding conditioner to fuel when refilling as well as a good old fashion lube of all the fittings?

All the tin is pretty straight and overall the old tractor looks to be in pretty good condition. I know it will need new rubber as two of the four are flat and cracked badly.

Any info here would be appreciated. Never been around these units. More familiar with Fords.
 
I had the same experience with a MF 35X 3 cylinder diesel. I may have been over cautious however,I have seen to many costly back yard attempts. I removed the 3 fuel injectors, and with a ratchet and socket and tractor in neutral turned the engine over in the rotation of normal operation two complete revolutions. All was free. Drained the engine oil and Transmission/ differential/hydraulic oil. Place three point hitch controls in the down position. Installed new Engine Oil and Filter. Fill the Transmission/ differential/hydraulic with Diesel.
Drain all Diesel from Tank and use a LIGHT to inspect FUEL TANK. Remove all FUEL filters and allowed fresh Diesel to purge all fuel lines to filter housings. Install new fuel filters (primary/Secondary)bleed air from top of filter housings. Disconnected fuel line from FILTER HOUSING to inlet of FUEL transfer pump. With mechanical hand primer on transfer pump,pump Diesel to main fuel pump and connected lines. Check to see that shut off rod to fuel pump is not binding...free movement and in the run position. Continue hand priming the fuel system until DIESEAL is evident at the point of the MAIN FUEL PUMP that I have indicated with a Black circle on the picture. Once diesel is evident at this point tighten bleed screw. Crank engine over with Starter until clean fresh Diesel is evident at the out let of each fuel injector line. Connected all fuel lines to Injectors but leave them loose at the INJECTORS (1/2 turn from tight). Check the level of the engine coolant and fan belt. Remove vertical air inlet pipe (has to be done on 35 Diesel so as to flip hood up) Checked to see that throttle linkage was connected and moved freely. With a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and throttle set at 1/4 open the starter was engaged. Now if something goes wrong and engine over revs, place plywood over air intake to KILL engine if fuel shut off rod fails to place fuel pump/ governor in off mode. Once engine starts to fire tighten all fuel lines to injectors. If engine is running smoothly with oil pressure try operating the controls on the three point hitch. Verify that lift arms move up and down and how smoothly. If all looks well and sounds well try the throttle at different positions, eg, min engine speed,1/2 engine 3/4 speed.In an unobstructed location you could try to move the tractor forward in LOW RANGE and first gear. Place PTO in GEAR and step on CLUTCH LEAVER all the way down. Verify if PTO stops turning. Once engine has been operating smoothly for approximately 15 minutes with no signs of any problems, shut engine down and change ENGINE OIL and FILTER again. Also drain DIESEAL from Transmission, Diff.,Hydraulics and top up with new oil. Check for Diesel leaks!
Ultimately you shall make the call as it's your money. Think very carefully about any short cuts to save $$$$$$$.
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Depending on fuel condition when parked the injection pump may not deliver fuel to the injectors anyway, due to stuck metering valve and rotor plungers. I've seen pumps fail to work after setting only two months if there was any trace of water in the fuel, and a complete teardown is the only way to free really stuck plungers.
 
Thanks for all the replies. It will depend on my Dad if he will even let me get it going again. He has some strange ways to say the least.

I really appreciate all the info. No shed runs though. No idea how long it has been since the tractor has been started.
 
I did extensive work on a 35 diesel for a guy who bought it
after it had been ditting for years. When I got into the
transmission to fix the multi-power shift, I discovered everything
was coated with a rusty film from rain water that had gotten
into it from around the base of the shift levers from the boots
being gone.
Long story short, the input strainer on the internal hydraulic
pump was mostly plugged with this rusty silt to the point it was
starving the pump of oil. I had to totally rebuild the multi-power
clutch pack, replace the sealing rings on both transmission
input shafts and throughly clean and flush the transmission
and rear differential housing to fix it. Also had to replace the
piggyback auxiliary pump. It was a costly repair.
Be sure to drain water out of transmission a rear housing
before starting it and follow the suggestions that others
have posted for you.
 

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