Do I need to split my 135?

Have a 1971 gas industrial with 3cy Perkins. Hi-lo with 3 speeds. No multipower. Noticed that the shuttle gears seem to drag, like the clutch is not 100% letting go. Has a moderate engine leak out the bottom of the bell housing. I have pretty much surmised that oil is on the clutch and causing it to drag a bit. Not a real issue on a regular tractor, but this has a loader and shuttle is used frequently. I don't like feeling it grind for a second or two every time I use the shuttle. So hoping for some advice.
1) Could this pan gasket leak cause oil to get on clutch?
2) How long to split for decent experienced shadetree mechanic?
3) Does this trick or pinning the clutch down when not in use work on situations like this? Sure beats splitting the tractor if that will work.
Tractor only has 1600hrs on it. Just replaced the old leather axle seals so I assume like those, my main seals just got old.
Thanks..included a pic just because
 
maybe this pic will work
001_zpsd13842a5.jpg
 
Hello,
I'm guessing that the tractor was made after 1970 on the basis that it does not appear to have radius rods fitted between the front axle and foot-rest bars. Obviously it is an industrial axle. If this is the case then you will need to remove the front axle casting before you can drop the sump (oil
pan) due to the mounting stud arrangement to the sump.
Yes, it is quite possible that the rear sump cork is leaking and allowing oil to enter the clutch housing. On stripping this type of loader set-up it would be woth replacing the sump gasket set as a precaution.
You will be hampered by the loader frame. In terms of time 2 to 3 hours to remove the clutch unit would be reasonable. My late wife and I had the clutch unit out of a 135 with an agricultural loader in one hour and five minutes once.
If you suspect that there is oil on the plate it won't disappear and there is only one answer and that is to strip it.

Let us know how you get on.

DavidP, South Wales.
 
Thanks David. Tractor is a 1970 (just looked at the paperwork that came with it) It appears to have radius rods, but also has power steering with a hyd. cyl. on each side of the axle. I will likely wait till the spring to split. I will have the hoe off at that time to run the bush mower and I do not use this unit more than a few hours per month, so it is not urgent. I also wonder if the high oil pressure it runs (tested between 65 and 70psi.) is making things worse? It only drips about once every 60 seconds when running and almost nothing when sitting overnight. Surprised me others seem to get by fine with small leaks like this. Then again, I guess others aren't throwing a shuttle back and fourth so much that a moment of light grinding when shifting adds up to any real issue. Anyhow, it is a great low hour unit and plan to own it for many years, so I do wish to keep things in proper shape. Thanks
 
You have the manual shuttle shift like my 2135, if the input shaft seals in the transmission is leaking it will leak right on the clutch. On my 2135 I drilled a 3/16" diameter hole between the front face of the bell housing, and the cover that's underneath the bell housing so if any engine oil leaks it will run right out rather than collecting in the bell housing should the rear main seal on the engine start to leak. Are you sure it engine oil, or trans/hydraulic oil? There should a cover on the bottom of the bell housing that's held on with 4 bolts, you can pull it off, and have a look at the clutch.
 
Excellent info Ptfarmer...will look into that. Not
100% sure it is engine oil, but seemed to be. Will
post back what I find Tomorrow or Monday on what I
find under that inspection cover. Thanks
 

Did the older tractors have a weep hole in the clutch housing? Our 240 has a cotter pin loosely fitting in a hole under the clutch, seems to me any oil that seeped in would end up running out.
 

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