MF 40 runs rough

Just got an MF 40 that I really like. Seem to run fine, plenty of power but almost seems like its missing or carb issue. I was cultivating today and would give it a little gas and let the clutch out and it acted like I had put the throttle way back down, then as soon as I step on the clutch it would rev back up. At idle it sputters a little bit but not more than any other tractor I've had but at wide open it really spits and sputters. So, let me know if you think I could be right with either timing or carb and if anyone could tell me how to adjust those two on this tractor I would very much appreciate it.
 
Make sure its getting gas by turning off petcock
then drain the carb bowl then turn on gas and check
for good flow out the drain. There are usually a
mesh screen inside carb and above petcock glass bowl
and inside tank.
 
(quoted from post at 22:38:56 09/29/14) It could be anything, you need to check and eliminate things.

Thats part of what I am asking I guess, what should I start with? The guy I got it from said that he had just done plugs, cap and rotor. I asked him about the funny idle and he said you just needed to find the sweet spot with the throttle and that maybe the linkage needed to be adjusted. But that didn't seem to make sense since the RPM's varied so drastically.
 
(quoted from post at 08:57:50 09/29/14) Make sure its getting gas by turning off petcock
then drain the carb bowl then turn on gas and check
for good flow out the drain. There are usually a
mesh screen inside carb and above petcock glass bowl
and inside tank.

Ok, tried this and it seemed to flow out very slow. It took nearly a minute to fill about 1/4 of the way. Is that normal?
 

The part under the rotor (is that the condenser?) looks original and the coil looks old as well. The wire between the cap and coil is also suspect. I am going to get a coil and replace that wire first. Any tips on if I do get a new condenser? I am worried I will mess up the timing if I replace it.
 
The round tube looking thing is the condenser, and it won't change the timing is you replace it. Next to it are the points, when the points open it tells the coil to fire. When the points are closed it lets the coil build up the electricity that is required to fire. Over time the points get burned, and dirty so it should be replaced when changing the condenser, rotor, cap, wires, and spark plugs (that is a complete tune-up). When you change the points you have to set the gap on them (the amount they open).

Since the points style ignition system was replaced by a magnet type trigger starting the mid 1970's you don't have to replace, and set the gap on the points.

Is your 40 a industrial tractor?, or is it a older Massey Ferguson, Massey Harris?
 
Not an industrial, it says Massey-Harris-Ferguson F-40.

Is that fuel flow normal? Should I look into cleaning the fuel system? I played with the linkage and it does indeed seem to have some play in it, almost seems like it is slipping somewhere but it is almost completely hidden and I cant tell where. I am thinking about taking the gas tank out to clean the entire fuel system and while I am at it taking a look at the throttle linkage.
 
(quoted from post at 13:58:33 09/30/14) Not an industrial, it says Massey-Harris-Ferguson F-40.

Is that fuel flow normal? Should I look into cleaning the fuel system? I played with the linkage and it does indeed seem to have some play in it, almost seems like it is slipping somewhere but it is almost completely hidden and I cant tell where. I am thinking about taking the gas tank out to clean the entire fuel system and while I am at it taking a look at the throttle linkage.


With todays gas it wouldn't hurt to clean out the fuel system. On the ignition if you want to eliminate the hassle points, condenser the is a electronic conversion for the distributor http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/1...n-Conversion-Kit-12V-Negative-Ground_3123.htm
 
no, fuel should come out faster.
If your fuel line is disconnected from your carb you should be able to turn the petcock on and have fuel coming out the end of the fuel line by the carb within seconds.
 
(quoted from post at 07:33:27 09/30/14)
(quoted from post at 08:57:50 09/29/14) Make sure its getting gas by turning off petcock
then drain the carb bowl then turn on gas and check
for good flow out the drain. There are usually a
mesh screen inside carb and above petcock glass bowl
and inside tank.

Ok, tried this and it seemed to flow out very slow. It took nearly a minute to fill about 1/4 of the way. Is that normal?


I just now noticed this, it should fill that bowl within a few seconds.
 
Ok, I kinda thought so, I am going to go through the whole fuel system, replace the coil (is that the same as a condenser?) and the wire to the cap. Might be a while before I get to it but I'll try to update then. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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