MF 65 front end

Boss Hog

Member
Last weekend I picked up a big round bale with Dad's MF 65. As I move the bale the front end was making some noise. I got off to investigate, and found out there's a lot of slop in the pivot bushings on the front axle.

I've never messed with anything like this before. Is it difficult to change the bushings?


We have a shop with a dirt floor - Nothing fancy. Jacks, hand tools, blocks - Usual stuff.

Just wondering if I should tackle this or see if Dad wants to call in a pro.
 
Jack stands and a floor jack to support tractor and axle are all you need. You might want to use a sheet of 3/4" Plywood to roll the axle once it's loose.

Get to it soon. My 150's bushing was GONE and worn into the casting. Had a shop weld and rebore to fit custom bushing. Of course the whole front of the tractor had to come off in my case.
 
It's not too hard to change them, but usually when they are real sloppy the axle pivot has usually worn past the bushing(s), and into the front support. You won't know how bad until you get it apart. On badly worn front supports I have welded them up, and machined them so the new bushing fits properly. If it's not worn too bad into the support I just bore it out, and make a steel insert for it so it can still use a MF bushing.
 
The front support on my 2135 had been welded up once, I machined it oversize, and made a steel insert .001" oversize on the od. Pressed the insert in, I made the insert to take the same MF bushing as it did originally.
frontsupport2_zps5d3b87cc.jpg
 
If the bushing bores require machine work, so will the pins on
the front bolster.

I sure wish the original bushings would have been designed
thicker. Usually when you notice the clunk,clunk it is too late to
simply replace bushings.

Edit: The pins are "part of" the front bolster on a 65. That makes the machining part of the job more interesting. I used a large CNC vertical mill and circular interpolated the pins with an end mill. Make sure to leave the original radius where the pin meets the bolster. (for strength)
 
The pin on my 2135 industrial looked like it had never, ever been greased, it was odd-ball size, and stuck in the axle so bad I had to torch it out, and make a new one. On all the other ones the pins came out relatively easy. Once you get it all fixed give them a shot of grease before you start it up for the day.
 
Look into parts availability also, while can find the part numbers you need, but some the parts maybe hard to find (you may have to have some made). Should you take it to a shop to have them do it, and it has to sit there while they find the parts it could cost even more (storage fee's). The work is not hard, it's getting all the parts.
 
The work is not hard, it's getting all the parts.
Sorry PT, have to disagree with you there. The "easy" part is getting the bolts out. You need access to an overhead lifting point for safety's sake getting it apart, and even more so for putting it back together (boom pole and come-along on another tractor 3pt will work). OEM bushings aren't really an answer, as this is a well known problem - the thin wall bushings can be gone and the steel pounding steel long before anyone notices a problem. Used parts will often be in no better shape, so if this tractor is a keeper, the only way to do it is fix it. This level of repair is not for amateurs; even for those with an old Bridgeport and South Bend in the garage.

You really need access to a [b:4aef031540]good[/b:4aef031540] machine shop with mills big enough to handle the axle and the complete front bolster. Depending on the machine shop skills/equipment and how worn the parts are, just the set-ups to do the multiple machining steps can eat a lot of time.

Ideally the front and rear axle supports should be line bored at least .100 oversize, and the pivot pins cut to the exact same plane and depending on how worn, steel bushed with a speedi-sleeve to meet OEM bushing ID (IIRC, front and back are not the same!). Smaller pins will wear bushings faster (lbs/sq" on bearing surfaces). I would have the new bushings of oilite bronze turned to press fit the now bigger bores in pivot supports that by the time you notice 'slop', you aren't pounding steel on steel. Putting a grease groove in the bronze bushings will help too. Ideally, the bushings should be line bored or honed to exact size and pivot plane after pressing.


Just for reference, an uncle had a MF 175 with bad pivot bushings. Sent it to the MF dealer for repair. IIRC, it took over 2 weeks and over $1.2k to do the work, and this was about 30 years ago. The bushings, pivot holes and pins on my 65 were beat, but fortunately I do tech work for several local machine shops and had an 'in'. Without those connections with tool makers and machinists, it would have gone out front with a "for sale" sign on it.

Just my 2 cents.

Well Worn
 
(quoted from post at 05:30:07 09/25/14)
The work is not hard, it's getting all the parts.
Sorry PT, have to disagree with you there. The "easy" part is getting the bolts out. You need access to an overhead lifting point for safety's sake getting it apart, and even more so for putting it back together (boom pole and come-along on another tractor 3pt will work). OEM bushings aren't really an answer, as this is a well known problem - the thin wall bushings can be gone and the steel pounding steel long before anyone notices a problem. Used parts will often be in no better shape, so if this tractor is a keeper, the only way to do it is fix it. This level of repair is not for amateurs; even for those with an old Bridgeport and South Bend in the garage.

You really need access to a [b:9e3a52d044]good[/b:9e3a52d044] machine shop with mills big enough to handle the axle and the complete front bolster. Depending on the machine shop skills/equipment and how worn the parts are, just the set-ups to do the multiple machining steps can eat a lot of time.

Ideally the front and rear axle supports should be line bored at least .100 oversize, and the pivot pins cut to the exact same plane and depending on how worn, steel bushed with a speedi-sleeve to meet OEM bushing ID (IIRC, front and back are not the same!). Smaller pins will wear bushings faster (lbs/sq" on bearing surfaces). I would have the new bushings of oilite bronze turned to press fit the now bigger bores in pivot supports that by the time you notice 'slop', you aren't pounding steel on steel. Putting a grease groove in the bronze bushings will help too. Ideally, the bushings should be line bored or honed to exact size and pivot plane after pressing.


Just for reference, an uncle had a MF 175 with bad pivot bushings. Sent it to the MF dealer for repair. IIRC, it took over 2 weeks and over $1.2k to do the work, and this was about 30 years ago. The bushings, pivot holes and pins on my 65 were beat, but fortunately I do tech work for several local machine shops and had an 'in'. Without those connections with tool makers and machinists, it would have gone out front with a "for sale" sign on it.

Just my 2 cents.

Well Worn

You are really making a mountain out of a mole hill. If you have good mechanical skills, tools, and have common sense you can take it apart, and put it back together pretty easy. Also if you have a good milling machine, lathe, etc like a tool and die maker would have like I do (which I am very good at, so I'm no amateur). The machine work, and or the parts will be the hard, and expensive part. Have you priced bushing material lately?
 
(ptfarmer) You are really making a mountain out of a mole hill. If you have good mechanical skills, tools, and have common sense you can take it apart, and put it back together pretty easy.
greed. I took mine apart and put it back together by my self, on a dirt floor. It took me several hours to do this, safely. Then again, I'm an above average mechanic and rigger (amongst other things). Jack stands are put on 3/4 plywood for stability, not directly on the dirt. Axles are top heavy and need support from the top before the bolts come out. Safety first, and last, and always. A few people die every year when they drop a car on themselves, because they are working beyond the level of their skills, their equipment, and/or understanding of safe practices. A local electrical supply shop had a great John Wayne quote over the counter: "A man has to know his limitations." Not everyone with a screwdriver and a neon test light should do their own electrical work. Not everyone with a set of wrenches should do their own mechanical work. Not everyone with a mill and lathe should do this level of machining. Some don't know what they don't know, and can make things worse instead of better.

Also [b:9c724fe934]if[/b:9c724fe934] you have a good milling machine, lathe, etc [b:9c724fe934]like a tool and die maker would have[/b:9c724fe934]...
My point exactly. I'd venture to say only a half dozen folks here have anything similar, including you:
... like I do (which I am very good at, so I'm no amateur). The machine work, and or the parts will be the hard, and expensive part.
No expensive parts at all, especially compared to owning a $10k-50k or more (used) CNC mill. The MF housings are beefy enough to take years of abuse. The pins could be egged by 1/8" or more, and no problem: standard sized sleeves are relatively cheap. No rare NOS or pre-owned (and abused) MF replacement parts necessary. The proper fix is in asking here and finding out that stock bushings make for problems. The major expense is in hiring the machining to accommodate that fix. My caveat with the repair wasn't to or about you, but the OP:
(bosshog) I've never messed with anything like this before. Is it difficult to change the bushings? We have a shop with a dirt floor - Nothing fancy. Jacks, hand tools, blocks - Usual stuff. Just wondering if I should tackle this or see if Dad wants to call in a pro.
PT, You may not realize just how exceptional you are. You would be a good asset as a neighbor for most folks here trying to keep old iron working. Myself included :D
Have you priced bushing material lately?
Matter of fact, I have. http://www.mcmaster.com/#bronze-bushings/=twwid4 Looks to be about $60 for 1/4" wall 954 (32,000 psi) or 863 (62,000 psi) bronze. Both are probably overkill, and the 21,000 psi 963 would work and be much easier to machine to exact size, though a few bucks more. Some of those choices are even available in a 3/16" wall stock - a good choice if the pivot holes don't have to be opened up much. I'd consider making both pivots the same size, and use same size bushing material front and back, so a 6" piece would be plenty long enough. It's been years since I had my 65 front done, and the guys that did it did the engineering on it as well, so not sure what they came up with for pin and bushing sizes - it was assembled when I picked it up (ok, when they loaded it with their overhead crane).

I just rebuilt the steering on a JD 420 slant dash - bored and bushed the dash, made a new steering stub shaft (w/ taper, woodruff key slot and thread), customized U-joints, rebuilt the steering box, etc. Took me a good part of 3 days in the machine shop, a good portion of which for setups. That fix was orders of magnitude more simple than machining the Massey front pivot housings, bushings and pins correctly. Then again, even though I fix CNC machines as part of my vocation, I'm merely competent at basic machining. Not that I couldn't have figured out how to do the Massey work, but I know my limitations (of working knowledge and time), so I left the Massey pivots to the experts with bigger and better tools that they use all day roughly 250 day/year, and have been doing so for decades. For them, the available tools and talent made it simple. Likewise for you. By the admission of the OP, not so much. The thing that will make or break this project, is the access to affordable machining. If they could get the parts to you, what would you charge to do it for them? This might give you some extra work, or give them a ballpark figure to check with their local machine shops. As is said: "knowledge is power", and "we'll leave the lights on for ya".

Well Worn
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top