mf 135 brake adjustments and wheel baring

Blanx

Member
I need help adjusting my brakes (I have none atm) and putting on a front wheel baring.

the book says lift the rear and use a screw driver to adjust the brakes but there is no hole. I have been told I have sealed brakes I have attached a pic I think.

as far as the wheel baring I have no clue where to begin.
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I wish I had a pound for every tractor front wheel bearing I have replaced over the years ( I would have £20 lol ). Actually it is quite straight forward but watching this video on Youtube might be better than me typing a ton of text. The only thing he does not mention is removing the cotter pin in the castellated nut prior to the nut being removed. I tended to put a new cotter pin in when I had finished too ,as the old ones tend to get pretty beat up. By the way, being a 'Fergie' your hub cap will unscrew. Tip: unscrew the hub cap before you jack up the wheel. You might as well do both wheels while you are at it, its not much fun when a front wheel falls off!
As for the rear brakes? I will pass on that one!
Replacing a tractor front wheel bearing
 
Hello,
The first question I would have to ask you is if you are absolutely sure that you have a '135'. Could this be an industrial model that has been repainted and perhaps re-badged as an agricultural tractor? Whilst sealed brakes are available for the 135 they do not normally have 'square' axle casings. Also the loader looks like it might be an industrial one. As far as I am aware square axles were never offered/fitted to 135 models. It is possible that a different rear end has been fitted to this tractor at some time?
With square axles you can either have dry disc brakes or oil immersed units. Normally with oil immersed units you will see a number of cut-outs (normally 5) in the plate between the axle and centre housings.See photo. If you have disc brakes dry or wet you will see an arm similar to the one in the second photo. Slacken the nut/s and make sure that the rod is free in the pivot bush inside the arm. Check that your brake rod clevises are free. Unlatch the brake pedals and tighten the inner nut one half turn at a time until you have about one and a half inches of free travel on the pedal for the side that you are tightening. Adjust the other in the same way. Latch the pedals together. Driving in low gear apply the brakes and note which way the steering pulls. Adjust up or slacken off slightly until a balance is achieved. Alternatively use a higher gear and jam the brakes on on concrete or tarmac and observe which wheel locks before the other and adjust accordingly. The result you get will depend on the type fitted. Oil immersed brakes and no braking effect then they may be worn out. Dry brakes and no effect, - the seals may have allowed oil to contaminate the linings. Dry brakes and jamming on, - possibly worn actuators. It would be possible to tell which type you have if you can post a photo of the brake arm assembly.

As to the wheel bearing I would agree with Roy. Replace both sides. That loader is quite heavy and the bearings in both sides are likely to be worn. Jack and support the front end safely. Roy, good tip about removing the cap before jacking. Remove both nuts and wheel/hub assemblies. Note which way the seal is fitted. The garter ring should be facing inwards. Prize the seal out and remove the inner bearing. Using a suitable punch locate the recesses inside the hub and tap out the outer rings squarely. Fit new using a brass drift for preference until you hear the rings 'bottoming' in the hub. Make sure you fit them with the thinner edges outward. Pack the inner bearing with grease and refit the seal as above. Offer the wheel into place and fit the greased outer bearing. Fit the washer and nut. Screw the nut up slowly continually checking for play in the wheel and its reduction. When almost zero spin the wheel and check again. Screw the nut a little further until the play disappears. Unscrew the nut until you can fit the splitpin. Check that there is a very minimal amount of play present. Fit the splitpin and hub. Job done.
Let us know how you get on.
DavidP, South Wales
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The photo shows you have the planetary axle, those have inboard disc brakes. There will be a threaded rod with a locknut that can be tightened up for brake adjustment on the front of the axle.
 
First time I've ever seen planetary axles on a 135. The AGCO parts book shows the 135 orchard tractors did come with round, and square rear axle housings with planetaries (my 2135 industrial doesn't have planteraries on the rear axle). With a front end loader I'd also check the spindle bushings for wear (if you can wobble the spindles in the knees you better plan on replacing those bushings also).
 
ill be back at the farm next week, but it does have several cut outs on each side. the right side has just the slightest braking left.
 
I didn't answer you first question, I have pictures of the original before it was redone, before I bought it. everything I have has it listed as a 135.

you are not the first to ask about the industrial model. the rear tires have a larger spacing from what im told. its 8in from bolt to bolt. im told typical 135 has a 6in.

the front end also has power steering but its not strong enough to move the front wheels when the tractor is stopped due to the weight of that monster loader.

when I purchased it 2 months ago it came with rusted rims for 18in wide tires.
 
The brakes on yours are inboard disk brakes since the rear axles have planetaries, on the ones without the planetaries on the rear axle have drum brakes at the ends of the axle like a car does.
 
This should explain how to adjust your brakes.

(quoted from post at 04:07:17 09/19/14) Hello,
With square axles you can either have dry disc brakes or oil immersed units. Normally with oil immersed units you will see a number of cut-outs (normally 5) in the plate between the axle and centre housings.See photo. If you have disc brakes dry or wet you will see an arm similar to the one in the second photo. Slacken the nut/s and make sure that the rod is free in the pivot bush inside the arm. Check that your brake rod clevises are free. Unlatch the brake pedals and tighten the inner nut one half turn at a time until you have about one and a half inches of free travel on the pedal for the side that you are tightening. Adjust the other in the same way. Latch the pedals together. Driving in low gear apply the brakes and note which way the steering pulls. Adjust up or slacken off slightly until a balance is achieved. Alternatively use a higher gear and jam the brakes on on concrete or tarmac and observe which wheel locks before the other and adjust accordingly. The result you get will depend on the type fitted. Oil immersed brakes and no braking effect then they may be worn out. Dry brakes and no effect, - the seals may have allowed oil to contaminate the linings. Dry brakes and jamming on, - possibly worn actuators. It would be possible to tell which type you have if you can post a photo of the brake arm assembly.

DavidP, South Wales
a169213.jpg

a169214.jpg


If your still not sure get the manuals for your tractor, they are worth the money. For me it's easier to show someone in person how to do most things, rather than trying to describe how. DavidP does a good job on describing how to.
 

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