101 Jr Brake seals?

Hello,

I had a leak under the tractor I'm rebuilding, trans oil. I figured it was minor, but I had to check the brakes anyway, SOOOO.... Pull the brake plate and water/gear lube POURS out of the brake housing, which is, of course, completely filled with decades of sludge... Off to the other side and , no surprise, the same issue. I can literally watch the oil pour past the brake shaft seals.

I'm trying to figure out, from the parts book, what seals I need to buy.
My 101 Jr RC (Single front wheel) has the band brakes (I need to get them relined) but the shaft seals absolutely must be replaced.

Can anyone point me to the correct seals, either by part number or location in the parts book?
These aren't the axle seals for the wheels, but the shaft seals for the shaft that the brake drums mount to.

After that, it appears I remove the housing, bang out the old seal and carefully press the new one in place.

Thank you to ANYONE who can help..

Go to any bearing place like Napa, with dimensions, and they'll help you out..

On a different tractor, I found I could not press in the brake seals very well, because they were thin metal, and I was having to tap them in, with various tools. No matter, I bent them up. Finally found out I had to use a PVC pipe sleeve [might have been a PVC bushing or some diameter] of the exact correct diameter, and place that in place, and tap that in as a driver to tap the seal in. wORKED PERfect.

A depressing sight...

I have never done seals on a 101 but have done many 30's 33's 44's etc. looks like a similar set up. The early 30's had the bolt on drums and band brakes like yours and the later ones had splined drums and expanding shoe brakes. After you get the drums off check for slack in the shaft, up and down with a bar, if the bearings are not tight the seals will not hold. Behind the castings that the seals are in there are shims, they can be removed to take the slack out of the bearings. there will more than likely be some slack, remove the same shim on both sides because you are setting the the clearance on the differential with these shims. Do one side at a time, pull the casting, remove the seal clean up and remove a shim, then do the other side, after you get the slack out of the bearings then pull the casting and install the seal, as to not damage the new seal while setting the bearings. Jack up one wheel at a time and turn to make sure the differential is not too tight with the slack out of the bearings, if it is you will need new bearings and races. The part no. for the seals for a 30 or 44 is NAPA# 27470 or CR# 455009, they will run you about 20 buck a piece, I don't know it these same seals will fit the 101????

Mike,

Thanks for the pointer, looks like they're the right size, and I've ordered them. I saw a pair of bands on ebay, and am going to bid on them before having the pads on the pair I have replaced.

I'll be checking the play, and if it's not too bad I'm probably not going to mess with it. This thing was clearly sunk in the mud for a while, and I suspect with all the water in the trans, that caused much of the problem...

I'll try to remember to update next week when the seals are in and the trans filled...

Its not that hard to get everything shimmed properly. I hope you will take the time to do it while you have everything apart.

Kornkurt is right,, the shimming is really no big deal, there should be thin shims and thicker ones, a little slack, pull a thin one, a lot of slack pull a thick one, better to be too tight than loose, it's a big timkin bearing in there and too tight won't hurt it. You might get by with a little slack, but not much, don't blow the job!! the new seals will not be as thick as the older ones but they work just fine, tap them in flush and use sealer, not silicone, silicone is a lubricant and also a sealer, but I have seen things move with silicone, I always use permatex, it's sticky and holds things in place, especially seals. On the end of the shaft make a cone with tin foil and lube it to help slide the seal over the shaft, make sure the lip of the seal doesen't roll as you install the casting over the shaft. Do it once, do it right, you will never have to go back in there, good luck.

FBH,
Thanks, I was pretty successful placing the housing on a solid surface, bearing race down, and placing the bearing in pace, putting a 2x6 flat on it, and tapping until flush.
OldIron

Mike,

Perfect size!

I'll be posting a new topic, as this one is growing, because I have another issue now.

OldIron