1959 MF65 38" x 12" Power Adjust Rim clamps and br

reubentice

New User
I am restoring a MF65 and had to replace a power adjust rim. I was able to get the clamps off but they were impossible to adjust (after naval jelly, grinding, etc) when I went to reinstall the hub to the rim. So, i was able to install them and then reinstall onto the rails and install a locking clamp but I was only successful with getting two of the bridge shaped wedges in place. I'm not interested in adjusting the rims again, only want to ensure it wont fall off when in use. I'm thinking if I could find some sort of metal wedge, I could hammer them into where the bridge piece is supposed to take up the slack. Also, are the clamps even available as an aftermarket part? Dealer price is about $290 each!
Any help would be welcomed.
Regards,
Mark in Pittstown NJ
1959 MF65
1947 Farmall Cub
1952 TO30 Ferguson
 
Each one of the adjusting blocks will need to be freed up after removal from the wheel. Once they get rusty they won't move I've found. After freeing up the cams on my 85 and backed off completely the wheel can be put on easily, set where you want, the turn each one clockwise to lock.
 
My question is, if I am NOT able to move the pin within the eccentric pin body (clamp), and I am not able to install all of the "lock" pieces for the eccentic pin. I have all six clamps in place and two of the locks for the eccentric pin within the body. I have also installed a "stop body" with a lock screw. I'm thinking that tack welding each clamp from the back might be my only option if I can't easily replace those pieces. :( :(
mvphoto9532.jpg
 
After years of salt dripping from a slight leak, the metal seems to bger almost fused. No matter what, I could not move the pins. Did you have to heat them up? Perhaps yours are simply in better condition. HELP!
 
I restored a 65 last year, same problem. No method broke
them loose. Of two wheels, I was able to get three to budge.
With the wheel and hub on the ground with cribbing and
wedges I was able to slide them on the rails and secure them.
They seem to work fine, however I do not work the tractor
much. With enough corrosion , moving that cam is not going to
happen without destroying the adjuster.
 
Could you give me more information on how you wedged the clamps? I was able to install 2 out of the 6 "locks" in place and install the rail lock. What did you use in the way of wedges? Steel?
 
I don't consider welding a last resort, just a messy option. Think this out so you don't heat the tube, and in a position where you can grind the weld off if you need to in future. Just a small tack too, don't need to run a bead.
Seems they always rust nice and solid where some previous owner wanted them spaced, but once YOU loosen them up.... nearly impossible to get them all tight enough for one to not??? clunk clunk clunk....
 
I did my 65 with 38" rims last winter. The eccentric pins are very hard and I was able to drive all the pins out after removing the snap ring. Some had to be hammered in slightly to remove the snap ring and then driven out without trying to turn the pins. This was all done in a vise with a 2lb hammer. Only a couple needed any heat.
 

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