MF155 (Perkins AD4.203) - new fuel lines/parts?

nippoo

New User
Hey all,

I've got myself a Massey-Ferguson MF155 to restore in France (as far as I can tell it's somewhat like an MF165, with a CAV/Rotodiesel injection pump...

Internally it all seems to work well - starts up when towed and changes gears (though is now stuck in reverse...). Indicated about 8000 hours but engine seems to fire properly. Been out in the rain so electrics all butchered and the bodywork is rusting, though.

I'm planning on stripping / sandblasting / repainting the whole thing.

Need to find new bodywork (side panels and instrument panel at least!) but more importantly the fuel lines to the injection pump are rusted/broken/leaking.

Do you know where I can source spares? Can I use those for an MF165? What about the lines to / from / between the injectors - is that standard AD4.203, or is it specific to the MF155? I guess it'd be good practice to replace all the pipework...

Also - do you know where I'd be able to find the specification for spare seals/o-rings, and also bolts/nuts, which I guess I should replace - some of them are really rusted?

Any other tips would be appreciated - new to this and very excited!
 
Bonjour Nippoo,
The MF 155 was manufactured in Beauvais, France. Whilst we in the UK regards the 135 to 188 models as a 'standard' range many of the Beauvais-made tractors used components from one or more of 'our' models to make a range if in-between tractors.
The AD4.203 was fitted to the 65 and early 165 in the UK. The same engine was used in the 155 and 158 models. In appearance it looks like a larger version of the 135 but with the 203 engine. Most engine components should be readily available but it will be necessary to thoroughly check and cross-reference part numbers to be sure.
Some of the Beauvais-made 165s have a similar bonnet so you may be lucky to find one that is being broken.
I'd be more thatn happy to check any part numbers if you let me know what you are looking for.
Cordialment
DavidP, South Wales
 
Re being stuck in reverse;
Remove the oil filler plug next to the gearlever and using a flashlight look inside. You will see the three selector which slide back and forth. The problem is most likely to be that the reverse one (the one on the right hand side will be in the rear position and possibly the gearlever has become disengaged. Using a suitable screwdriver or 10-12mm bar prise the selector back into the middle position to give you the neutral gearlever position.
With 8000 hours there is likely to be major wear on the main gear lever pivot pin. Can you turn the gear lever at all? Is there excess up and down movement? This is normally the cause if these tractors becoming stuck in gear. If you are able to free the selector it is good practice to make a point of pushing the gearlever downwards every time you change gear. This minimises the chance of it disengaging. The only answer is to replace the pivot pin and possibly the gearlever.
DavidP
 

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