MF135 lift cover removal to fix lift piston rings and tips

Hi, I just replaced leaking lift piston rings on my Ford Jubilee and Case 480ck to fix 3 pt lift arms that dropped down over time. Easy enough fix although the Case lift cover was very heavy, and they work perfect now with no leak down.

The lift piston rings on my MF135 diesel must also be replaced as they are probably broken or worn as I took off the side cover and saw fluid leaking from the rear of the piston with a heavy load on the arms. The lift leaks down rather fast. No other leaks are detected.

I have the manual and read about taking out the roller pin and "to suitably retain the dashpot plunger to prevent it from dropping out when the lift cover is removed." Two issues:

1. What is the dashpot plunger and what does that mean about retaining it?

2. Any tips on removeal of the lift cover (i.e., can I lift it out by myself by hand, etc.), what to watch for, taking out the roller pin, getting the piston out of the cylinder, and then putting it back together?

Thanks. I will post some pics of the process.

Your best bet is to have a helper with small hands retain the dashpot plunger (if it pops out you get to fish for it) MF is supposed to have wedge (MF 270B) to hold it in place.

On the lift cover a engine hoist of some sort is your best friend (that sucker is heavy). Also get 4 very long bolts that have the same threads as the bolts that hold the lift cover on, cut the heads off of the long bolts (using them as guide when pulling, and installing the lift cover because the lift cover needs to go straight up, and straight back down). Take the roller pin out before pulling, and install it after you re-installed the top cover. To take the roller pin out, and in you have to spread the arms just enough to get it in, and out (spread them too much it will break one of the arms).

Take you time, and don't rush it.

Getting the piston out, and back in is not too hard.

Excellent idea about the bolts. About how long should they be? 6"?

The manual says to "retain the dashpot plunger" (whatever that is, I assume it will be evident when I remove the side cover). Can I just use a piece of wire to hold it in place as I lift out the cover.

I do not have an engine lift but I can use some pulleys hanging from a beam to lift it out. Sounds like it might be difficult to lift it straight out using the long bolts as a guide.

Thanks again for the excellent ideas.

6" long will be plenty, after you cut the heads of the bolts off you can grind a little taper on top.


Take your time to position the tractor under the pulleys you have as close to center of the cover (side to side) as you can. You can roll the tractor back, or forth a little bit to get the cover to lift up as straight as possible (you will be favoring the rear of the cover more than the front).

I found that when re-installing the roller pin, you
can tie a string to it and tape it in place so that
if you drop, you don"t have to start over and
retrieve the roller pin from the bottom.

A couple of years ago I pulled the cover on a 245 diesel. I bolted a small chain to it, stood on the steps and strained my guts out and off it came. Needless to say I put it back on using an engine hoist ;-) Strong back - weak mind. The roller came off and on easily. Take your time it should work out.

I have to do the same job on my 135. So thanks for the post because the good advise will help me also.

Hi everyone,
I would have to take issue with ptfarmer over a number of issues in his reply.When the hydraulic cover is inverted during removal using the MF tools the dashpot piston can fall out. The special tools consist of a framework to allow the cover to hinge on the hinged pin lugs at the rear of the centre housing and a pillar to use as leverage which becomes a stand for the cover when removed. This allows safe and easy working and access.

The easiest solution to prevent the plunger falling out is to place an elastic band around the plunger body and over the adjusting screw. The elastic band can be cut and removed once the cover has been refitted.

The dashpot piston wedge will NOT hold the plunger in place. It is not designed to do that. The purpose of the 270B is to prevent the dashpot piston (not plunger) moving during adjustments.

"4 very long bolts" may well prevent you removing the hydraulic cover. The cover has to move rearwards slightly before it can move upwards. If you look at the front of the hydraulic cylinder you will see it is profiled to fit up close to the front part of the cover face. The correct 7/16" unc studs should protrude no more than 1 1/2" above the upper face of the centre housing. A turned or ground taper is useful but they should also have a slot cut for a screwdriver to remove them. It is essential that the cover does not move when it is in its location. The gasket can become damaged it is moved.

The attached image shows a page from the MF adjustments book. The roller removal tool consists of a spring clip at the end of a small handle. This is essential to prevent the roller falling under the pump. You may be lucky to fish it out but if not it will mean removal of the cover again at least. It is difficult to open the legs of the pump lever so take the greatest of care.

DavidP, South Wales

Excellent information, especially as to the "dashpot plunger" and how to secure it. I will not have the special tools to remove the lift cover so I will use shorter bolts to line it up for the removal and re-installation. I will take pics of it all.

As an aside David, I have had this tractor for 12 years and it has been excellent with no problems at all. I live in Pennsylvania, USA, and it is not uncommon for it to get to 0 F. in the winter. Even at that temperature, the tractor (perkins diesel) starts within the first revolution and it doesn't have any glow plugs, heater or use of any help. Quite impressive. I also must say that it uses very little fuel. It is by far, the best tractor that I have owned in this size and range (Ford Jubilee, Ford 861 gas, Ford 3000 diesel, and Case 480ck). I have also put a front end loader on it. I will post pics of the repair.

DavidP, The information on holding the dashpot plunger in place is great, I'll have to remember that for next time. When using a hoist to install the cover the longer bolts work good (you can screw them in once your close). Try putting a cover on by yourself working a engine hoist, and positioning the cover at the same time. I wish I had that MF tool to pivot the cover out, and back in, that thing looks like it's a real time saver.

robilmichael, that's a nice 135 you have. The Perkins diesel is a great engine. My brother's 150 has the same engine as your 135, it will start right up when it's really cold, and runs a long time on a tank of diesel.