Z134 Broken crankshaft

ptfarmer

Well-known Member
Location
San Antonio, Tx
I picked up a 1965 MF 2135 Industrial tractor with the Z134 engine. I got it running but had a knock to it, dropped the oil pan, and the crank is broken at the center main journal. Is this a common problem with the Z134, or am I just unlucky? If this is somewhat common I may do an engine swap of some sort engine swap if it is.
 
Hey ptfarmer,
From what I"ve read, the Continental Z134 is a pretty good engine, and parts are readily available. Don"t know why the crank would break in the center though. I have a Massey ferguson 202 Workbull, and I have a spun #1 rod bearing, looking at buying the major out of frame overhaul kit from this site since it does include a new crank. Only thing I"m wondering is wheather or not the cam bearings and oil pump rebuild kit is included. I"ve emailed customer support and the only thing they can tell me is what is on the suppliers webpage...
Anyhow, someone with more Massey experience will be along shortly to let us know why your crank broke in the middle.

Roger
 
My 1967 MF 150 has the Z145 engine. I believe it's the same block. I completely rebuilt the engine. Good engine in my book. BTW, the Z145 doesn't have Camshaft bearings.
 
I managed to find a crankshaft from a friend of mine. I traded him 2 tires, and wheels (he needed the tires, and wheels, I needed the crankshaft). I also got a set of connecting rods, a oil pump along with a pallet of some old TO20 parts (2 gas tanks, Z120 engine parts, block (cracked, missing 2 main caps), a front cover, a set of sleeves, pistons. The front cover, sleeves, and pistons look still usable, and a few small engine parts, bolts, etc. I will probably scrap the Z120 block, the 2 gas tanks, and may try to sell the rest cheap.
 
2tractors,
I saw that listing. You live in GA? I"m originally from Columbus, but moved to Ft. Mitchell, AL a year ago this Friday.

Take Care, roger
 
One thing that bothers me is that the engine oil filter is merely is just a by-pass oil filter, and not a full flow filter. Once I get the engine out, and apart I'm going to study the oil passages in the engine to see if I can make it a full flow oil filter setup (where all the oil gets filtered, not just a little bit of it). Plus I can remotely mount the oil filter so it won't make such a mess when changing filters.
 
Tom,
Received the manuals for my 202 with the Z134 last night. According to the Service Manual, the Z134 doesn"t have cam bushings either... Who knew??
So, it"s on to reading up on removing the loader, pulling the engine and commencing the tear down and rebuild.
Any suggestions as to what I should be aware of and / or double check??
I"ve rebuilt several automobile and marine diesel engines but this will be my first tractor and the first engine rebuild in over 30 years...

Thanks,
Roger
 
It's interesting that the camshaft doesn't run in bushings, if it wasn't for the over head valve head the block looks like an old Ford flathead 4 cylinder.
 
Really a simple engine. If doing a major, I recommend having a local machine shop remove/install piston sleeves and upgrade valve seats to hardened ones. Be careful when tightening the valve lash lock nuts, they strip easily. I also removed the oil pump gear plate (gears had worn grooves into it) I draw filed the plate to remove most of the wear. A lapping table would be better for this, but didn't know anyone who had one.

It's been seven years now, so I'm sure I've forgotten something :)
 
My thoughts exactly... I was a diesel engine mechanic in the Navy for over 23 years and rebuilt everything from power plant to small marine diesels, and quite a few gas engines...
The Z134 manual says that if the cam and bosses are out of spec, replace the block...
 
Either you or the machine shop needs to check the main saddle for proper alignment. A common spec is .0015 max. using a straightedge with caps on and torqued sitting on a table. Also check the balancer. While I am not familiar with the balancer on that engine, if the elastomer sleeve is hard replace the balancer. I have also seen cranks break with the main caps improperly reinstalled. If it were mine I would have a machine shop align hone the block to be sure. Hope this helps. Gerard
 
Got the engine out of the tractor along with the 2 piece crankshaft (the main journals on the crank are worn pretty good).
2135001_zpsac86a579.jpg


The block looks ok (will still check the main, and rod bores), the bearings faired fairly well (no spun bearings in the block, or rods).
2135002_zpsc97457ed.jpg


I will need to get new clutch plates (2 stage clutch) the engine oil was going into the bell housing (rear main seal wasn't sealing anymore).
 
PtFarmer. I used to grind crankshafts. There are a
couple reason that the crank could break. Fisrt
question is has that crank ever been ground before
or welded on because of a spun bearing. If so
after a rod is welded on the cranksfaft will
actually will be bent so it would have to be
straightened again before going to the grinder.
Its very easy to snap a crankshaft if not carefull
straighteing it back out. It happens ive snaped
them myself. on continental cranks there is not
enough meat between the rod and the sides of the
crankshaft. If one pops while straighting it is
possible not to catch it. unless they magnafluxed
(process to check for cracks).the crankshaft.
Another way it could break it when they ground the
crank they didnt put the radious back in the edges
of the crankshaft journal and ground them
flat.That would also let the connecting rod walk
from side to side on the rod journal. Then when
the engine had enough its lights out. If you are
planning on rebuilding this block i would make
sure it went thru a machine shop first. they will
check the webbing ,line bore, and make sure you
ask to check the cam bore to make sure the crank
didnt hit it and mess something up there. you
might could find another block for the money youll
have to put the machine shop work. Hope this
helped
 
My dad being a tool, and die maker for most of his life, and one my brothers is really good at also so they will look everything over with me (I'm not a bad machinist myself). We have all sorts of stuff to measure things with, anyways if we see something questionable it will go to the engine machine shop I use for re-building, and building a race engine for my car (we could do the work, but it would cost me more in the long run due to setup time + making any special tooling). Anyways I'm not impressed with the crankshaft, and design of this engine (no cam bearings, only 3 main bearings, no counter weight crankshaft, only 4 studs hold that heavy clutch/flywheel on the crank, the rather thin connecting rods, etc, etc). Should this engine need too much money put into it I have other engines I could can adapt into the tractor that would make it more reliable, and have a bit more power. I'm not worried about keeping it all original, and it's not going to be worked really hard, or every day like it used to.
 

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