F40 Ignition Coil

jagness

New User
I'm a new member so I hope I'm not raising a question that's already been beat to death. I'm in the middle of a tune up of a 1957 F40 (replacing points, condenser, rotor, cap, plug wires, plugs, and coil). The original coil says something like "must be used with an external resistor," but my new coil says "external resistor not necessary." Should I take the coil back or just remove the external resistor from the system? Although it can get cold in Oklahoma, I don't really expect to be starting it in really cold weather. In fact, I'll be storing the tractor inside. If it's okay to use this coil and remove the resistor, where exactly do I find the resistor?

I'll appreciate any and all advice.
 
I would remove the resistor and use the coil. Less things to mess with when troubleshooting and they work just the same as the orig. with resistor. I think it's up in the same area as the regulator. Not sure exactly as mine has already been taken out.

...unless you're doing an original restoration and want it to look correct. But for a worker, I'd go for the internal resistor coil.
 
Theres a lot of good people that will help with questions on Ferguson Forum also. You can go to fergusontractors.org/fena and find a lot about Ferguson. There is a FENA Club also you can join. Ferguson 40 is very popular with members.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll find that darned resistor and remove it. I'm not doing a restoration at this time. Maybe someday in the distant future. I'll keep the resistor for that possibility.

Thanks also for the tip about fergusontractors.org/fena.

I feel pretty good because I got all the new ignition parts installed today, the points adjusted, drained out all the old gas, replaced the fuel hose and filter, and replaced a worn out battery cable end. Once I fill it back up with fresh gas and remove that resistor, hopefully it will fire right up and purr like a kitten. 8)

I'm really looking forward to driving it.
 
Sounds like you are on the right track. When did it last run?

P.S. we love to look at pictures!! :)
 
I'm not really sure when it last ran. My wife and I bought a "farm" recently (32 acres). It's a long story, but we spent a lot of time talking to the sellers, and we went to their estate sale. That's where I bought the tractor. It was a risk, but as we got to know these people we were very impressed by their honesty and how well they took care of all of their stuff. The husband built the house, the shop, storm shelter, etc. His attention to detail in all of that is amazing. In fact, I spent a lot of time talking to him about how he built each building, etc. So even though I couldn't hear the tractor run, I trusted what he told me about it.

In a previous life, I worked for 7 years in a machine shop that specialized in refurbishing blocks, heads, cranks, rods for industrial engines. I've also overhauled a wide variety of engines over the years on the side, so I felt like I could get this tractor running. Working on it reminds me of doing this sort of stuff with my Dad 30-40 years ago, so it's really fun for me.

Maybe I can post a few pics tomorrow.
 
I drained the gas out just on the basis of the way it smelled. That makes me think it hasn't run in many years. They also had a much newer tractor that was in running condition. But his health kept him from doing any real farming for a number of years.

This guy's Dad bought this tractor new in '57. We found the owner's manual with some paperwork that had his Dad's name on it.

If I sound really into it, I am!
 
Congratulations on your find, bet its everything the po said it was. You can look on the left of this page pulling up "Tractor Parts" and find what the resistor looks like.
 
When I finally got a chance to get back to work on the tractor today, I traced the wire from the positive side of the coil up to the starter switch. No resistor to be found anywhere. So I buttoned everything up, poured in 5 gallons of 87 octane (guaranteed to have no ethanol in it), and opened the valve on the bottom of the carburetor float bowl to bleed air out of the system. Then I got on it, turned the key to "I" and hit the starter button (forgot to pull the choke). It started so quickly it literally startled me! It idles very smoothly. I just took it out on the driveway and drove it in a circle and put it back in the shop because the oil pressure gauge never budged off 0. It has plenty of oil in it, so I'm hoping its an electrical gauge with a bad connection. The ammeter gauge didn't move either.

My wife took a video with her phone. I don't see any blue or black smoke. But the old spark plugs were very black. The fact that it started so easily without the choke makes me think the carburetor is probably too rich.

I uploaded the video, but I haven't been able to get it to play. Not sure what's wrong with it: http://home.earthlink.net/~jagness/Tractor/IMG_1359.MOV
 
Don't want to burst your bubble but the oil pressure gauge is mechanical.
Sounds like you've got yourself a running tractor. Before going too far I'd seek out another oil pressure gauge and try it....or take the oil line off and see if it's plugged up. Might be something easy. Always wanted a 40....
The fact that it started so easily without choke could mean that the float is stuck or there is crud in the needle/seat. My next move (after figuring out the oil pressure) would be to remove the carb, give it a good soak in carb cleaner. While it's soaking, find yourself a rebuild kit.
 
Yeah, I have to figure out the oil pressure issue first and foremost. I was wrong about the ammeter gauge. I went out and restarted it for a few seconds and that gauge went to +30. I didn't want to run it long enough to see how quickly it might go down. Don't think I'll start it again until I diagnose the oil pressure problem.

The video plays on external_link, but you probably have to be a member to watch it: https://www.external_link.com/photo...62284&type=2&theater&notif_t=like
 
It runs great now, but still no oil pressure (I"ve only run it a
few minutes because of that). I double checked it with another
oil pressure gauge. Should I drop the pan and replace the oil
pump and main and rod bearings?
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top