massey 65 oil in bellhousing

jpryorx2

New User
hey guys ran into another problem while bringing this thing back for the dead. my bellhousing is filling up with oil and filling my starter up.i was thinking the rear main but my engine oil level hasn't dropped at all. so then i started thinking input shaft seal so at this point i have the tractor split in my drive way but am not sure where to start. the oil smells like gear lube to me. isn't the trans and hydraulic fluid the same? or does the trans use gear lube and the multi power hydraulic oil? is so do i just pull the multi power unit off to get the the input shaft seal? any help would be great so i get this thing back together asap before i start getting even more complaints .

thanks
jason
 
My old TO35, got it stuck, that plugged the
transmission housing drain hole, oil filled the
clutch housing, it was coming out the starter, etc,
ruined the clutch.

The transmission input seal leaks if I fill
trans/differential to the full mark. So I keep the
level at the mid point. The seals have been
replaced, but was told the housing is worn on my old
tractor. Who knows????

End result: fix input seal if you can, keep oil
level at mid point, be sure the sump drain hole is
open, and has a up side down cotter key ( with legs
spread and hanging down in the drain hole).

This cotter key rotating in the grass will keep the
drain hole open.

Good luck, let us know what you find.
 
I just did the same thing on my 135. If you have the same trans, 6 speed, I had to remove the whole trans. from the tractor. Take out the throw out bearing assembly, remove the four bolts holding the top shaft, remove the cover over the bottom shaft, screw a 7/16 fine thread bolt about 3 or 4 inches long in the end so you can control it. pull the bottom shaft out the rear of the trans. enough for the bottom front gear to drop off the shaft so you can pull out the top gear. There are two seals, one on the outer shaft and one between the two shafts. Buy them from Agco and be very careful installing the inner seal. Reattach the trans to the rear housing and install the throwout bearing assembly and roll it back together.
 
Mike, nice to communicate with someone who has really fixed this problem of leaking ferguson transmission.

my mechanic, of years ago, said the front of the 135 mf had the transmission input shaft housing fixed so it could be unbolted from the transmission and replaced if it was worn and the seals would not hold.

he said, my old tractor 1957 model TO-35, has the transmission input shaft housing: is made as part of the transmission housing and cannot be replaced when the input shaft housing gets worn.

many old farmers of the day, just traded up when the transmissions started leaking, as there was no way to successfully fix the trans leak.

do you think this is true????????
 
There's a couple of post here lately about the weep hole in front of inspection plate having either a bolt or cotter key. Mine has a bolt as does others, what do you have?
 
NO, The manual procedure is much the same as Mike explained with the 135.I only had to split my 57 and drop the lower gear to pull the upper, no top cover removal or tranny removal.
 
my book says nothing about taking the trans apart just to remove the multi power take the snap ring off and to pull the pto input shaft with bearing out as a unit. and that there will be a inner and outer seal. i called a tractor dealer today looking for parts and was telling me that i need both seals and 3 discs that he said look like small piston rings any idea what he's talking about?
 
also forgot to mention it only seems to leak when the engine is running. my multi power is working but could it still be the leak?
 
ok i'm at the point that i really need some guidance.i got the brake rod and throwout shaft out and the mutli power/ pto input shaft out. i can see the 2 seal in the pto shaft and i see the 4 sealing rings that the salesman was talking about but how the heck do i get them off the input shaft? do i have to take the top cover off and remove clips and actually take the input shaft out? or should i be able to work them off the shaft without dismantling it any further?
thanks
jason
 
ok so i got all my input shaft seals and rings changed then moved on to the rear main looks like i need to pull the oil pan to change the rear seal ?? if so thats gonna be a pain since i have the front half of the tractor blocked up under the pan. also looks like both the rear seals the dealer sold me are wrong they sold me a 147049m91 and a 735866m1 the second is a rope seal that looks to be for my tractor if i had a diesel. but accroding to agco mine should be a normal lip seal so i guess i need to order more parts and have it torn apart in my drive for another week now
 

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