Colin Hester
New User
Does it require a puller to remove the WP pulley from the pump hub? Tapered shaft?? This has been an easy job so far, I hate to get stumped now........
Anybody???
Thanks in advance.
Anybody???
Thanks in advance.
- Thread starter Colin Hester
- Start date
Colin Hester
New User
Well, that"s good to know. The tractor owner doesn"t want to replace it because it"s not leaking. And, there is one bolt that can"t come out without the pulley removed. Reason for tear down is a busted thermostat housing. Everything else was in satisfactory condition.
Phil Tibbetts
Well-known Member
The pulley is pressed on, no taper. I replaced mine with a complete new pump and don't recall any problem with a bolt being in the way.
Phil Tibbetts
Well-known Member
If you want to remove the pulley you will need to use a bearing separator or pull from the hub near the shaft, if not you will probably break the casting.
Colin
You will have to use a T-bar puller. Basically a T with the top of the T is split into two parallel bars. In the center is the screw hole and screw. The bottom of the screw goes into the center of the pulley, on the end of the water pump shaft
You put a couple of long bolts into two opposite fan boltholes in the pulley. The top of the bolts go through the two parallel bars with washers to hold them in place from slipping through. tighten the two bolts to snug, equally.
Then tighten the center screw, slowly. The pulley should slip right off with minimal difficulty. And you wont break the pulley, by pulling from the bottom.
Hope I described the procedure in a way to be understood. I may be able to get a photo of the T-bar and how its set up.
You can build a T-bar quite easily. Just need a nut welded in the center of two bars. and a long threaded bolt in the nut.
Wayne
You will have to use a T-bar puller. Basically a T with the top of the T is split into two parallel bars. In the center is the screw hole and screw. The bottom of the screw goes into the center of the pulley, on the end of the water pump shaft
You put a couple of long bolts into two opposite fan boltholes in the pulley. The top of the bolts go through the two parallel bars with washers to hold them in place from slipping through. tighten the two bolts to snug, equally.
Then tighten the center screw, slowly. The pulley should slip right off with minimal difficulty. And you wont break the pulley, by pulling from the bottom.
Hope I described the procedure in a way to be understood. I may be able to get a photo of the T-bar and how its set up.
You can build a T-bar quite easily. Just need a nut welded in the center of two bars. and a long threaded bolt in the nut.
Wayne
Colin Hester
New User
Nice pics. My application has a clearence issue on one mounting bolt. So, question answered and many thanks to everyone that replied. Now to go and find all the gaskets to put it all back together.
Phil Tibbetts
Well-known Member
That pulley is different than mine.
Colin Hester
New User
Hi Wayne, I'm working on a Perkins AO4.203 diesel.
Colin Hester
New User
Holy cow. I had no idea that replacing the t-stat housing required removing the whole front of the engine. This has turned into a long process. I would have never tackled this project outside if I"de known. Time to put the tent up.
Do I win if I get finished and there"s parts left over???
Do I win if I get finished and there"s parts left over???
Robert Major
Well-known Member
Hi
If that pump is similar to whats on a 135 diesel that bolt doesn"t come out you can just about get a wrench on and undo it, leaving the bolt in the pump housing. When I had the new pump from A&I for this 135 motor, the pulley was already on and supplied with the new bolt in the hole in the pump housing.
Ready to fit, no assembly or dis assembly of pump required.
Regards Robert
If that pump is similar to whats on a 135 diesel that bolt doesn"t come out you can just about get a wrench on and undo it, leaving the bolt in the pump housing. When I had the new pump from A&I for this 135 motor, the pulley was already on and supplied with the new bolt in the hole in the pump housing.
Ready to fit, no assembly or dis assembly of pump required.
Regards Robert
Colin Hester
New User
There ended up being two bolts that wouldn't come out so I backed them out together and let the pump come out with them. Once the pump was off I discovered that the entire front cover has to come off to change out the thermostat housing. What a poor design for the end user. Cooling system parts should all be externally mounted for easy change out, in my opinion.
Colin Hester
New User
I"m beginning to dislike MF tractors. Someone was not thinking very far ahead in the design department. You can not remove the crank pulley unless you split the tractor at the front end. Saying I"m frustrated in a huge understatement.
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