Lift Pump Replacement Help

Okay I've got a bit of a problem. I have a replacement lift pump identical the one offered on this site - http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Massey-Ferguson-202_Hydraulic-Pump_184473M93.html - that came in at the end of last week. Now it says its compatible with the MF 202...but I'm puzzled as to how its suppose to go in.
(EDIT: Or could it be what I got is the INTERNAL pump?)

Below are some images of what I have.

mvphoto4738.jpg

Is the pump (sorry for quality with the sun glare) still mounted. Has 2 mounting bolts at 9 and 3 o'clock as the image perspective goes.

mvphoto4739.jpg

Removed easily enough. Doesn't look at all like the replacement.

mvphoto4740.jpg

As you can see it is rather small. The short shaft has a key in it.

mvphoto4741.jpg

Shows the socket...which btw has quite a bit of play.

Some help would be appreciated as this looks like (at the moment) like it will be trying to fit the proverbial square in a round hole. There's even the issue of length. The old pump is 9in while the replacement is 12in...which would get in the way of the grille being put back in place w/o notching it first.
I have several heaping trailer loads of crap to get rid of but it doesn't do me much good when the bucket only has "very light" loads in it (compared to what it could handle if new) that force me to set a high throttle to get proper response. It lifts the bucket's own weight fine up to about 6ft but needs aforementioned lead-footing to get it up the rest of the way...and thats with a full load o hydraulic oil.[/img]
 
There is an easy answer but not what you want to hear.
You do not need a lift pump. What you show on your tractor is a front mounted hydraulic pump which runs your front end loader. The pump you got would fit in behind the transmission and it's what is used to control or lift the 3 point hitch arms. Therefore it's called a lift pump. It is an internal pump as you have guessed.
The one you need is not available as far as I know. I ended up doing some modification and getting a different pump from surpluscenter.com.
 
Just what I was afraid of. Not sure if I want to go ahead and return the pump (though cost only 240$ with free shipping)...as it would cost me closer to 50 or more to return it and my 3pt works fine even if it does seep down when not powered. Will have to think on that. Or just send it back and what's left over from the refund use it to get a replacement front pump.

Ok then answer me this after I quick describe my loader's behavior. My BUCKET hydraulics seem to work fine...with the loader arms up I can tilt the bucket back and to manage a fairly hefty load. Its the LIFTING that is anemic...beyond half height (as mentioned) it takes coercion. The arm-lift oozes fluid out around the rod when in use and I figure I'm definitely losing at least some capacity from there.

My loader BARELY kept a 500+ pound lathes weight off trailer enough (never actually cleared the bed) for the trailer to pull away (and leave the lathe swinging)...and it was all I could do while goosing the throttle and holding the control to raise the arms just to simply let the lathe settle slowly to the ground.

MIGHT have found a pump equivalent. Could this be the exact one I'm looking for? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Front-Loader-Hydraulic-Pump-Massey-Ferguson-Ford-600-700-900-2N-8N-9N-NAA-/320843009894?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item4ab3bbcf66
 
I'm no hydraulic expert by any means but I'll give it a guess. If the tilt rams are strong as ever but your lift arms are not, one or both of them may be bypassing which would indicate it's time to rebuild them. What I mean by bypassing is that instead of the fluid pushing on the ram, it is sneaking past the seals/packing and creating the condition you describe.
When the pump went out on my 202 it puked the seal out from around the shaft.
As far as whether that one will directly replace what you have, I'm not sure. I did some research when I was putting a new pump on mine but ended up changing pump sizes. There should be a thread on that here somewhere but that was..........2-3 years ago if I recall.
The orig. is a Cessna pump. Once they are worn out there's not much you can do with them. From what I found out at the time there was no direct replacement available. The one you show LOOKS like it might work...........I'll see if I can dig up the thread from when I was replacing mine.
 
Definitely helpful. I'm also looking at the other pumps at Surplus Center...in particular Cessna (hoping for a more direct match as mounting//shaft goes). Will get a shaft length measurement of my old one so I know what to look for.

Going by what you said about the rams...the notion did cross my mind that I might have to replace them. The left one I had to replace the outer seal and O-rings (it made a gushing mess on the trailer when I first loaded it after purchase). Has 3 piston rings on the rod end that even though I offset the gaps...too much fluid could still be getting past. Then again the bucket rams dont require as much flow to do their job as the lift rams DO.

Yeah...DEFINITELY want to return that lift pump...I hate expensive mistakes (could've been worse though). Bought it with part of my tax return and that money only lasts so long.
 
Okay I found a couple potentials that LOOK like they will be bolt-on-an-go. Would like a little feedback on which ones are recommended. I checked Surplus Center and Grainger (just for the hell of it) and both have results.

http://www.grainger.com/product/HALDEX-BARNES-Pump-4F665?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP
From Grainger - comparable price to Surplus Center although this pump looks like its GPM might cause my lift rams headaches.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...9-cu-in-CESSNA-26011LZC-HYD-PUMP-9-4442-D.axd
and
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...7-cu-in-CESSNA-26013LZC-HYD-PUMP-9-4443-D.axd
Both should be quite adequate for my needs but I'm also looking at cost//performance.

The Grainger is smack in the middle as price for the pump goes but has a broader GPM range when compared to the others.

I don't have a need to connect power steering...my rig comes with a dedicated pump albeit one I still have to wrestle with some.
 
Yes, I think any one of those options would work for you.
In hindsight, I wish I had stuck with one that actually fit properly. I had to do quite a bit of modification and plumbing to make mine work. The extra flow is not all that noticeable. I have a spare pump from my TO35 that I am not using (took the FEL off) and some day I might fit it to the 202.
 
I'll go with the one from Grainger then. From other searches I saw...the original is closer to 2GPM and the 2 at the SC site are my price range but not the correct flow to be acceptable.

Strange...normally Grainger stuff seems VERY much more expensive while here its about the same but has a broader performance range.

EDIT: Grr good thing no order yet. THAT one is CW not CCW.
 
Good thing you noticed that! I should have. I spent 12 hours behind a steering wheel yesterday, I had no business being behind a keyboard giving advice!
 
Where have you been? Haven't heard from you since the forest fires last summer. There are a dozen brands of front pumps, every one a little different from the other. Now, you don't have an internal pump as Inno is saying do you? You do have a new YT 'external front pulley pump'? Really, with the radiator and loader arms still in place, you'd need arms like a baby orangatang to reach in there, and mounts might need to be altered/ welded. You got quite a project ahead of you... I hope the old one wasn't just airbound... can you pressure wash/ steam genny this stuff first? That always helps. good luck!
 
Those fires were a loooooong ways away from me. Closest any of those got was still about a decade ago or more...was called the Rodeo Fire...though it was more than 150mi away still managed to smell a hint of woodsmoke in the air and see a thin smoke haze at night under the outside lights.

Sadly don't own a pressure washer...though would be useful no doubt. Not sure if 40lbs of water is enough to keep it fed proper though.

Anyhow got the https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...7-cu-in-CESSNA-26013LZC-HYD-PUMP-9-4443-D.axd one on order. Its CCW and should have sufficient GPM (claims 14.6 @ 1800). DID find on ebay however a front pump thats said to be for Fords and MFs (also CCW) but rated at 14GPM @ 2000. Not that it matters much but I'd rather not have to keep my throttle firewalled (if I had 1 of those). Some of the stuff I'm loading to get rid of I have to get a running start (about 20ft in 3RD-LO) to get my old bucket to get a bite on (piles packed themselves over the years...and its a small bucket). If I go too slow I don't have enough weight on the rear end to give me enough traction...ooo I have a number of ruts out there filled with nothing but talcum powder sand now.
 
Well, kinda sorta looks like your old one, was the old one a Cessna? That's why I clean the broken stuff- to read the small print.
As far as the fires, I was thinking of the one early summer fire where 19 fighters were killed? I thought that was eastern AZ.
 
As far as I know my pump is original. But I'll clean up the mess as best I can to see for sure.

Heard about that fire incident. But where I'm at for any such fires to reach me would have to cross a hundred miles of scrub desert to get to me. I appreciate the concern though.
 
Pump came in. It's a direct fit...bolt holes line up fine. Just before hooking it, come Monday when I get replacement tires for the front of my dump truck...going to need either replacement filter element or new filter setup. No use risking early ruin on a new pump using OLD filters.
 
I'm really thinking it's your cylinder, and not your pump. If the bucket settles on it's own, but the tilt works A OK, then it's gotta be in the cylinders. You can replace the pump, but you're just throwing good money after bad at this point. Rebuilding the cylinders yourself is by far the cheapest option. If you did one already, I'd start by either doing the other one first and then try it, or just do both right away.

Messing with a pump right now is just not a good idea without further diagnosis.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
(quoted from post at 14:45:20 03/22/14) I'm really thinking it's your cylinder, and not your pump. If the bucket settles on it's own, but the tilt works A OK, then it's gotta be in the cylinders. You can replace the pump, but you're just throwing good money after bad at this point. Rebuilding the cylinders yourself is by far the cheapest option. If you did one already, I'd start by either doing the other one first and then try it, or just do both right away.

Messing with a pump right now is just not a good idea without further diagnosis.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Lovely. Potentially another part I bought that's not needed. My 3pt will settle on its own when the tractor is turned off..but it will stay up fine when running.
The only time the loader will seep down is if I have something like...oh...a 550lb lathe dangling. However if I have the bucket at ground level with a normal load in it, it will RISE but VERY slowly unless I give it alot of throttle. I can lift a 3/4 bucket or (mostly dirt at this point) junk and once its at height it will stay there, but its the getting there that is the current issue. Seeing and feeling how worn out the keyed cup is that the pump locks into, I'm willing to bite the bullet on this one and and consider the old pump well worn. NOTE: Unless the cylinder seals are THAT bad off, the pump I'd think should have been able to keep the loader airborne with the lathe unloading.

But I agree it could also be the cylinders are too far gone for the old worn pump to manage. Sadly unless I can find a kit for those exact cylinders, I'm best off replacing them with suitable sized alternates. Unfortunately I don't know the exact loader model (I'm guessing whatever came standard on the Work Bull in 63') I have and the cylinders no longer have any identifying markings.

OR

My loader lift controls are REEEEAAAAAALLLLLYYYY worn out...the control to raise//lower does leak a fair amount around the plunger. And that lever must've seen a lifetime of use since the pivot points have LOTS of slack. Of course baking like it did in the Sonoran Desert sun in 120F summers for 2-3 years probably didn't help since by then the controls would have drained back into the reservoir past worn-out seals perhaps.

Anyhow I'll know for sure this next week. If my loader proves more responsive (ie actually lift an empty bucket at a better rate and at IDLE) than before, yet still suffer from having to use higher throttle to lift it loaded, it won't be a complete blowing of 300 bucks.
 
Just for reference, I have replaced my loader controls with a set from Prince hydraulics. It also added a float function for the loader which is handy for back blading.
I loaded the bucket of my 202 with probably 20 bundles of shingles and raised it up about 10 feet and it held with no problem. At an average weight of 70lbs a bundle that's 1400lbs!
That sounds like more weight than I thought..........at any rate, it should keep 550lbs up with no problem. If your controls are that worn out if could be them causing part of your issue too. There are definitely no parts for those things. I looked high and low when I broke one of mine, hence the new ones.

And no, those are not the correct parts for your cylinder. Those ones in the link are for the 3pt lift. You probably won't find any parts for your loader at all on this site. The loader is probably a Davis 101 or 102 loader. I have some info on them and there is also a parts list on the Acgopartsbooks.com site. Davis was bought out by MF years ago.

If you think it would help, and if I have time, I can put up a video of me operating my hydraulics so you can get an idea of how it should work.........actually I might have something already on you tube. http://youtu.be/tiCSca2VyPk
 
Sounds like then the issue is a between pump//cylinders with the controls being a lesser(ish) contributor. I think I found a replacement set of cylinders at Surplus Center that should fit right in without having to rebuild the mounts as they also have the flat tabs. Between the 2 rams it will run me about another 300 w/o shipping. Just need to double check my existing dimensions etc. Rams will be my next purchase...though not immediately. (EDIT: Ok more like 300 apiece or so.)

I'd figured that 1000lbs would be nothing with possible 1 ton being the practical limit. Or whatever the arms of the loader will take at any rate. The right arm has clear signs of repair earlier in its life where it angles down. But I found it annoying that even with the engine at max governed revs...and my holding the lever to LIFT the loader, it barely held. 550lbs of lathe should have been a walk in the park. If I was able to get the controls apart w/o losing any important pieces, and if its merely O-rings inside, that could be band-aided with new right-sized ones to last a bit longer maybe.

I'll check on that agco link as well.
 
Ooookay. MAYBE I got ahead of myself with the pump. YES there is an improvement...BUT! Apologies if it seems like some of my post is overly detailed. Bare with me please.

Aside from having to redo the plumbing up front which took 3 days of different configs and realizing I didn't have certain fittings and having to go get them, the new pump does improve response a little. HOWEVER it didn't quite solve the inability of my loader from raising much more than its own self plus a tad extra. Did a load test by deciding to take on the back end of a 79 Chrysler Cordoba that's sitting on the property...a rather large car that's all steel. Parked the tractor with bucket under the bumper and dropped my gannon for stability. Went to lift it...it refused to lift the car tires more than 1-2 inches off the ground. Under proper circumstance had the load been too much I'd feel the tractors back end trying to lift. That didn't happen.
SO! Decided to try the bucket...tilted it back...the car rose another 6 inches with ridiculous ease so fast it shifted off the bucket.

I have it from another source...one I will go to with a number of vehicle//equipment issues I try to figure out since he's been around awhile and knows things.[b:e8533a745f] His notion is that I have a restriction problem...probably with the hose that comes from the pump to the spool controls. Likely part of the inner lining of the hose separating and thus constricting the hose. Sound plausible?[/b:e8533a745f]

Since the bucket hydraulics are smaller cylinders and require less fluid to do their job, restriction doesn't affect them as much. The lift cylinders on the other hand require more and if there is anything resembling a significant load on them, that resistance could be causing said inner lining to peel back and restrict flow, so that what little does get by isn't enough to support the load and so could find its way past the old rod rings. Thus the arms will either stay put and not move further or gradually bleed down while under load. (NOTE: My loader will not bleed down on its own under its own weight.)
 
I have no idea what you said after you mentioned 'Chrysler Cordoba'... does it run? What kinds shape's it in?
Oh, yeah, hoses can do that, so can a messed up 4 way valve. so can being airbound, but this is what it did before you tore it all apart? That Cordoba got leather upholstery?
 
I would say you are on to something there. Either a hose/hoses or the loader spools (controls) being so worn out. I'm not a hydraulic expert by any means but I would be taking the hoses off one by one and doing a thorough inspection. As far as the spool valves, you won't find much in the way of parts for them. I ended up putting on a replacement set made by Prince hydraulics. The bucket spool on mine was so worn that when you put any load on the bucket and tried to lift it, hyd. fluid would squirt straight up out of the top and give you a nice shower.
Here is a picture of the new set I put on. The picture was taken when I was installing an updated power steering system. That's a whole other story!

mvphoto5729.jpg
 
No change with the new pump-to-spool hose. VERY unlikely both the lift-side lines to the rams are both shot since both respond identically. As of now I'm convinced its the spool itself. I intended to swap the lines...moving the outputs for the bucket to the lift and vice versa as per a suggestion by a coworker. The bucket after all isn't the one that must do the REAL lifting work. THAT got shot to hell when I saw that 1 of the ports lacked the SAE to NPT adapter and its nut. SO! I simply reversed the lines for the lift.

I got an immediate...if still unsatisfactory...improvement. I performed the same lift test on that car again...took full throttle and holding the control UP and it slowly lifted the car tires a good 1-2 feet off the ground. My problem is definitely there then. If I can't get the dumper loaded for a haul this Monday I guess I'll make a mess (ANOTHER ONE!!!???) and pull all the spool lines off and move them over. Sad thing is the 1 line that prevented a swap is pretty tightly attached to the hardline going to the bucket.

I'll consider spool replacement but first I'd like to find out that if I can dismantle the spool and reach the O-rings on the control rods...replacing those might be all that's needed even if its only a cheap bandaid.

As the spool goes, I figure it likely that all worked just fine before the POs parked it over 2 years ago. The fluid in the spool would have eventually drained into the reservoir and with nothing to bathe O-rings in the got baked and stuck to walls. Once used again I'd wager they left a ring behind that's just enough for them to still seal up when the controls are released to prevent bleed down. But missing too much rubber to seal when in use. It would also explain that when pressure is released on the controls, the loader drops a little bit before "catching" (the shot O-rings "seating" under pressure?).

Under the spool are 4 screw//nuts(???) on the corners and 2 large looking but thin bolt//nuts just below the control rods. Hmm....

NOTE to SELF and OTHERS: Whenever playing with hydraulics...MAKE SURE TO TIGHTEN ALL NUTS! :( Forgot to tighten a nut going to the rams to LOWER them...so when I released pressure on the lever after the test...the weight on the arms forced fluid out around the spool nut and made a MESS....got a good spray in the arm too. FORTUNATELY wasn't under pump pressure or else I'd probably have been looking at ER time had any skin been broken.

@ Tony

When I mentioned Cordoba...was referring to a car thats parked that I used as a proper weight test. It's the oldest (now anyway) vehicle thats parked in such a way that I can get to the back end. It ran when parked (what old vehicle sitting for yeeeaaarssss hasn't?)...has crumbling red Corinthian leather, and what used to be grey paintjob. The reason it was parked, aside from being 1 too many vehicles at the time, are blown rear freeze plugs.
 
I just thought of a couple more disappointing things. First, old fashioned loader pumps, like some old fashioned power steering pumps, only work well if the rpm's are way up there. Sometimes they will seem to seize up if run at an idle... and, these old loaders sometimes even when new, never picked up the weight a more modern machine does with little effort. Like I tell people, a manure loader was designed to pick up a load of straw and manure... not a couple yards of wet concrete- or one of the finest cars of the late 70's... hey? how cold does it get where you are that the freeze plugs blew? If it gets that cold, Inno won't visit you and fix your tractor...he'll just stay in Canada and freeze in his own back yard..
 
"Fine Corinthian leather" was it Ricardo Montalban in the commercials? I remember those land yachts, beautiful cars. I know someone who had one with a 440 and a set of cherry bombs. Apparently it would rattle some windows.
As far as what one of these loaders will lift,I have put somewhere around 20 bundles of shingles in mine and lifted them 10' in the air for a buddy. As far as your next move, you could try swapping hoses from main cylinders to lift from the spools but I am not sure if the controls will flow the same amount of fluid. Heck, maybe someone swapped them before you got it.
 
Those freeze plugs went from rust rot...has the 360ci.

Possibly, but my rig is the Work Bull which was meant for Industrial work...including a heavier-built front end and factory(?) power steering since it has double-acting hyd cylinders controlling each wheel separately. Then again who knows.

Whatever a long-ago PO (probably a Road Dept or other Public Works) used the tractor for, one was clearly to haul around asphalt...got gobs of the crap stuck to the tractor in the bucket...the steps...loader frame...etc that was later painted over MF-Yellow. Asphalt has considerable weight to it. My current predicament won't even lift a half-bucket of mixed dirt n junk without lots of silent cussing, holding the LIFT control, and letting the governor peg itself, and hope it cooperates to lift high enough to clear a trailer's sides (4ft off the ground would have just cleared it).

Currently I have a brand new Cessna hyd pump (best I could find with enough flow that was still CCW and was SAE A) that according to Supply Center is 14.6gpm @ 1800 while the original (according to what I could find) was 14 @ 2000. Could have found higher performing (and cheaper) pumps in SAE B but that would have led to even more time consuming changes that wouldn't solve current problems. In any case I have a bit more flow at similar pressures than the old one did new. I've also eliminated the SUPPLY and OUTbound hoses on the pump as culprits, with the latter being the only real potential troublemaker of the two.

Can't really do it this weekend (today got the sides up on the Dump Truck) with 33" wood sides...7ft will clear it...so even if I have to take baby-bucket loads it STILL beats the hell out of shoveling ANYDAY. Afterwards I'll drain the tractor hyd and swap the lines. If that works as good as hoped and the bucket stays working fine on the old lift side, it will stay that away till hell freezes over or until it become necessary to replace the spool or I sell the thing.
NOTE: The rods for the lift and bucket cylinders are both the same size so they should otherwise be identical internally...hopefully.
 
I think I'm leaving more and more of whats left of the spool's O-rings the more I use it. Didn't even get to load up the dumper for a 2nd haul. Was reduced to having the bucket nearly empty and even with my standing on the throttle it BARELY rose at a snails pace. Took my foot off and let it "idle" at 1500 or so RPM where I had the hand throttle lever at...worked the lever to raise the bucket...it instead started to creep DOWN. Loader will stay put when spool is centered of course. So it looks like I'll be ordering a replacement set of spools. Will be getting a 2spool w/ float for $218 + ~$19 s/h from Surplus. Had a few options but 1 of them that was 14gpm was maybe 6 less than one that was 25gpm AND had the float option for that extra 20 bucks (is 198 w/o float).
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...NCE-RD526GCGA5A4B1-OC-VALVE-W-FT-9-7875-F.axd

Once it's on and HOPEFULLY seeing the last of my major hyd issues, I can afford to take the old control apart to see if its merely as simple as O-ring replacement.

Actually could make a cheaper setup with a couple of the single double acting spools they have but that would complicate supplying them and the return line.

If I never need the OLD pump and (maybe) refurbishable spool for the tractor again...I've some thoughts for possibly making them useful for a possible hydraulic winch for the 62' IH Scout thats been on hold for the last 4 months. Is a thought anyhow.
 
Looks like the same one I have on mine. The float position is nice for back blading. You won't regret putting that one on. If you need, I have quite a few pics of the conversion.
 
Sounds good. Pictures will definitely be helpful if only as a reference. I'm sure your old spool was a direct-bolt to the loader frame where said mounting was also the return to the tank.

Part is ordered (as of this post...a few minutes ago) so should have it before the end of next week. Would've had it by now but was spending the free time over the last several days looking through Surplus's catalog that I had them send with the pump, to find one that would work best for me.

If THIS doesn't solve the problem (ie see huge improvement but still require goosing the throttle to move a heavy load) then rams are in order...OH JOY!

NOTE: Was doing some cement work and was going to use the tractor to bring the bucket loads of wash-sand/gravel to shovel out of...and it wouldn't budge. Had to give it throttle just to lift its own weight. Not giving throttle at low-ish idle @ ~1000-1200 rpm had me again seeing the bucket drop while "lifting it". UGH! I'll be glad when this is over...if ONLY I'd started at the spool control first instead of the pump.
 
Sooooo. FINALLY got the new hardware installed. HOWEVER!!! Will get to that AFTER the supplied images.

mvphoto7043.jpg

My OLD and quite possibly OEM setup.

mvphoto7041.jpg

Side view showing the new tank with connections.

mvphoto7042.jpg

Close up of the all the new and clean(er) setup. Was a royal PITA getting the connections. Kept having to readjust the control mounts to get the return side to line up...
The "T" junction you see is a holdover from the original controls and supplies the lift-side of my rams.

NOTE: I realize the outgoing lines are overly long but the old ones I attempted to use were barely doing the job...one of them sprung a leak (oozed badly) since I had to take the bends out of all of them just to reach the outlet ports...so I guesstimated the extra I'd need. Well at least there is more than enough slack for flex...not likely to kink them to death until they split though I will have to secure them better.

------

Only just noticed......my lift rams are 2 different sizes. Left is 1 5/8" while the Right is 1 1/2". No doubt as a result of repairs to the loader by a PO that wrecked it...and repaired (extra plates at the joint where the loader arms go down), one of the hardlines (controls DOWN on lift rams) is crooked but otherwise OK...amongst other welds that look aweful but perfectly functional. Despite having an effectively brand new hydraulic system (only the hardlines and bucket lines mounted on the loader itself weren't touched), the whole sch-peel still...refuses...to do its job. BUT BUT BUT with the new hardware I did notice the loader responds better if I put more load on the left side of the bucket. Could've sworn I saw the right side 'twitch' (flex where the rod goes into the bore) under load. It still though will bleed down at idle....with a half full bucket or debris//dry dirt...with the controls held in the RAISE position.
I've half a mind that either 1 or both cylinders, the rings (not seals) on 1 or both sides isn't working so fluid is getting past, and working its way back to the controls and then tank (maybe). This is MOST aggravating. Lifts empty bucket on its own but requires high throttle to do so (wont do at idle).

SOOO...needless to say I'm about fed up. Only thing could be I'd think would be the lift rams. Despite the fact my pump is rated at 14.6 GPM @ 1800 RPM @ 2500 PSI...that shouldn't any huge contributor since my controls are preset at 2000 PSI at its relief valve (can adjust though).

If I didn't need the thing still I'd swear I was ready to shoot it.

[/img]
 
Well, I think it's safe to say, though process of elimination, you have found your problem...........the hard way. Don't feel too bad, once those cylinders are fixed it will probably lift just about anything! Those old parts were probably going to go out on you anyway...........
K, so I put a new rad in my 35 about a month and a half ago and drove a large stick into the fan blades and consequently got the new rad all chopped up............these things will drive you nuts, but when it's all fixed it will seem like it's worth it. Not sure if it is, but it will seem like it.
:)
 
About like the dump truck...cost me 1250$...then 600$ for the tires//tubes//flaps for the front. Which btw the drivers front went flat 2x for no apparent reason...in a spot that should never be able to puncture...using the old flap now as its sidewall is taller and SO FAR no problem there. The only bright spot in that mess is that the tire place that I got the tires//tubes from didn't charge me on any of the 3 times they had to deal with it since it had them baffled as well.

In the end with that thing I figured that even if it consistently cost me 50-60$ in fuel to make the 50 mile round trip (about 4mpg or so that might improve the more that beast is used to clean things out)...10 trips (would amount to about 30-50 total tons depending on each load) would cost about as much as a 40yd rolloff dumpster BEFORE the tonnage fee added on top of delivery//haul off...and I'd still get to hall off many times more tonnage. Also at my own pace and not the rush to fill to avoid extra fees. That much tonnage would cost me thousands in the dumpster. So yeah....in the end it would be worth it even if it doesn't feel like it.

PS - The rams are ordered. When it comes to mounting it will require some extra fabricating on the loader arm end to mount//meet existing reach...and from the description I'm sort-of staying "stock" since the rams are said to be used for MF1080 loaders (among others).
 
AT LAST MY SALVATION HAS COME!! Delays not withstanding, the new rams are installed...550$ later of which 380 was the rams themselves after shipping and only 2in less reach at full extension. The remainder was the new hose to plumb to the new rams since all connections are on the cylinder body...and my 4th bucket of hyd fluid.

Thought I'd have to cough up about 70 bucks just for hardened steel 1 1/4 pins but the shop at work also manages the golf course across the street so I got some freebies. In their scrap pile was a set of 4 single-acting cylinders from a Toro 2500 reel mower that were shot...the rods from those were PERFECT fits. and since were hole-through that made pinning easy. Weld on a washer to keep them from falling out..then washer//pin the other side and its good.

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I might have to go back later to improve the hose routing but for now I'm happy.
As soon as all was hooked in and tank filled 3/4 got it fired up. HUGE and immediate improvement. Rams rose consistently. Brought idle up just to speed it up a little and bucket would go up smooth w/o difficulty whatsoever. The old rams I'd have problems at full throttle. Then opted for a test would definitely prove whether or not it could lift a full bucket...tilted bucket to full dump and used it to lift the 2-3.5k ish pounds forward of the back axle off the ground. Might try the OTHER test later to see but got 1 last spot to get welded up first (1st image where the ram is attached to the loader frame...on the transmission side).

Maybe now can get some stuff done around here. Still need to find out if the dump trucks left tire will keep going flat despite using the old flap now.
 

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