Tach drive alternator

In the process of mounting and hooking up the new alternator with tachometer drive on the back. Done messing around with voltage regs. I'll post more pictures once completed
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Did you have trouble with the length of your tach cable. I converted 2 ea. ferguson 40 from generator to alternator and found that my tach cables are 4 to 6 inches too short, so I haven't been able to use my tractormeters.
 
I got this alternator off ebay, its a gm one wire 63 amp (I think). I'll dig up his number, I had a couple questions on it before buying it and he was wayyyyyy more than helpful.
To answer the tach cable question, I did not have any issues there, but it may be just since I already have a "universal aftermarket" cable. I'm still getting a bracket fit up, then i'll finish the rewire process. Voltmeter is already in, this fix may tick off a few die hard restoration guys....... but owell this tractor is used very often. Not a pole barn pet, and I like lights without killing batteries :) nothing wrong with a little new technology on old equipment
 
Nothing wrong with it at all. What you are doing is probably preferable to the die hards than what I did. I put in a 3 wire delco (it was cheaper than just a voltage reg) without the tach drive and then stuck a Tiny Tach on the dash. No looking back, the battery is always well charged and it starts like a dream! When I get around to putting lights on I'm sure they'll be nice and bright too.
 
Alternator is all done, can't believe I waited this long to do this. 14V on meter with 2 headlights and one rear worklight on at idle. Try that with a genny.
The guy's name is Bill from Iola, Kansas that I got this from. Phone number is 620-228-1477. Extremely helpful. There is another listed on ebay now with more pics and such.

The only thing that I may try later on is a larger diameter pulley on the alternator- to match the size of the one on the generator. The tach shows 200-300 rpm faster than it is actually running, since alternators spin a little faster. But I use the tach for oil change hours more than the actual speed, so i likely won't bother right away.
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Wow, what good oil pressure in your pictures, 40 plus. My 2 Ferguson 40's can only get 18 to 22 psi even after rod and main bearing replacement. My owners manual says thats about all I would get. What motor is in your tractor.
 
Looks good! As long as you know the correct RPM it won't be an issue at all.
Just curious, what is the round metal pipe that looks like a piece of conduit going to the top bolt of the alternator?
 
The round piece of conduit is a heat shield for a canvas cab/heat houser to keep the canvas off the manifold. I have to make one more to guard the new pulley from the canvas, otherwise it would lay right on the pulley. Works well just crimping the ends of 1/2" conduit and drilling a hole through it.

I replaced the oil pump when I got this tractor, unknown hours on it since there was no tach. It has been rebuilt at some point before I got it, since it had federal mogul bearings in it. But it has the z134 in it. Its a late 56 or early 57 to-35 to the best I can tell, it had the green belly underneath the latex yellow house paint that some fool brush painted on there. No serial number tags on it anymore either. I believe that it is somewhat rare since it is the green belly 35 with live power and power steering? Not sure though.

A couple pictures of before and (so far) after. Not done with the sheetmetal and painting yet. Someday.

One last pic of a dead weight cement pull when I had a garret gt15 turbo hung on the side :)
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(quoted from post at 06:11:19 03/11/14) In the process of mounting and hooking up the new alternator with tachometer drive on the back. Done messing around with voltage regs. I'll post more pictures once completed
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I hope this is not asking to much but do you have a pic of the back of the alternator without the tach drive installed?
I am asking because I am in the process of building one out of my old delco 10si alternator and have the tach drive and need to know it it still retains the rear bearing with a hole drilled in the center cover of the bearing to take the tach drive or if it has the complete bearing is removed..



I know I have to get a different pulley and have read that it is a 4" pulley but have to do more research on that.
Thanks

vizi
 

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