Major rebuild of MF 240 Hydraulic system--what is required?

Van W. · Feb 8, 2014

Assuming one had decided to do a major rebuild on the hydraulic system of an MF240, what would one replace? I assume the pump itself would be one of those items, and I understand how expensive it is, but after a lot of frustration with the hydraulic system response, I'm willing to consider it. I have had this tractor for two years, and its poor response to the draft & position levers has made it a great deal less useful than I had hoped.

The machine had not been well cared for when I got it, and I had to drain and refill the hydraulic system three times to remove traces of water in the oil. I assume that might have done some permanent damage.

I am not sure it is related, but when in "Constant Pumping" mode, there is a random (not rhythmical) soft knocking coming from the vicinity of the pump.

Van W. Eastern NC

Anonymous-0 · Feb 8, 2014

You don't want it in constant pumping unless you have remote hydraulics hooked up. Do you have an MF manual that explains the operation of the 3 pt. and hyd's? It might not need a lot of work to get it working right.

Van W. · Feb 8, 2014

Yes, I have a manual, and I THINK I understand it all. I mentioned the noise in constant pumping mode just as a possible clue. Even in a constant pumping application, there would have to be times when no oil is flowing, and I wouldn't expect that to cause it to make the inconsistent knocking/clunking noise.

samn40 · Feb 8, 2014

One thing that will cause rumbling and knocking could be broken pump mounting dowels. These are fitted on either side of the transmission housing at footplate height (pictured are the lighter type fitted to 35/65 tractors)

Movement of the pump will put stress on the stackpipe thus allowing oil to bypass the 'O' rings

This is all that is visible of the stackpipe when the transfer plate or isolator valve is removed....Below is how it fits into the pump inside

The stackpipe will pull straight up out of the pump, only the 'O' rings hold it in place....

Try these simple things first to eliminate them....If you do have to lift the lid remember to remove the little roller between the control forks, just inside the dipstick inspection plate. Another cause for knocking is the relief valve blowing off. It will do this in constant pumping or when lifting an excess load. Regular blowing off, causes it to wear allowing leakage and pressure loss. Let us know what you find..........Sam

Anonymous-0 · Feb 8, 2014

The knocking is with the 3 pt. arms all the way up? When in constant pumping for remote hyd's. you need a diverter valve and the 3pt. is disconnected. You can't use the 3 pt. and constant pumping at the same time.

gbs · Feb 9, 2014

the knocking in constant is relief valve opening,your other problem could be a bent control linkage under the lift cover caused by backing up with a road blade and it shock loaded the the top link control,freak thing but it happens,you need to pressure test your system before starting a major overhaul and I&T repair manual is a good investment,you also need a couple of special tool to set the lift correct,don't try to remove the lift cover unless you are familiar with how to disconnect the control rod to the pump you could damage it or lose the roller into the rear end case

Jason S. · Feb 10, 2014

There have been a few threads on here talking about the knocking sound you hear. It seems that some of the tractors and some don't. My 175 has that sound. I took it back to the dealer where I got it and the old guy there that still works on the tractors is 75, he started with Massey in 1956. He told me when those tractors were new some knocked and some didn't. We even took the lift cover off of mine and examined the lift pump and found nothing. No broken dowels...not out of adjustment...nothing. So we put it back together and it's still going strong to this day...it just knocks. If your tractor has pressure control installed you can not pull the standpipe out. There is a block in the middle of the pipe where a line runs to the pressure control and it will not let you pull it out. You have to remove the lift cover to get the standpipe out on pressure control equipped tractors.

Van W. · Feb 10, 2014

Thanks for everyone's help on this problem. This post was really an add-on to the other one about not having good response from the Position/Draft controls using a box blade. I was really asking, "worst case scenario" if I were to throw parts at it and replace everything suspect, what would I replace? Trying to get an idea what the worst case cost might be.

Overall, the tractor is in great condition, but using a box blade or even a scrape blade is a frustrating process. Unless one keeps the load on either implement very light, it digs in and cannot be raised in small increments. It is as if the hydraulics does not have the power to keep it at a set level, and once it begins loading with dirt, it heads for China and can't be raised reliably unless one stops or slows forward motion. It's great for cutting washboards, but not for smoothing anything.

Major rebuild of MF 240 Hydraulic system--what is required?

Van W.

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Anonymous-0

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Van W.

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samn40

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Anonymous-0

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gbs

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Jason S.

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Van W.

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