Massey 35 Diesel value ?

BradTN

Member
Hi, I did a search, but didn't seem to find a good match.

I may have a chance to buy a M.F. 35 diesel tractor. 1962 model, I think, with a "Knock" in the engine. Bad rod bearing maybe ? The tractor looks fairly good, but needs serious engine work of course.

So, with that limited info., what kind of general range would you guess on the value of something like this ? Thanks, Brad.
 
Unfortunately, the 3 cyl diesels are an expensive motor to work on. Anything over $800-$1000 you may end up with more in the engine rebuild than the tractor is worth- unless rest of tractor is REALLY nice, or other sentimental value.....
 
go there with a friend who really knows diesels. Let him listen to it. Feel the sump, whatever he does for a test.
A Perkins 3 does have a... different? diesel knock, by nature. So don't write it off yet. If it is gone, the rebuild kits are for sale on this site's online store.
 
I wouldn't say the Perkins 3 cylinders are expensive to rebuild. I bought a complete kit for less than $500. Of course if you hire someone to do it that is a different story.
 
You might get lucky and have an injector tip stuck open, that will make a loud knock too. Can check with the lines completely off. While cranking engine no fuel should blow out the injector inlet, but any that are stuck open will. Not common, but can happen.
 
I went and looked at the 35 today. It was quite cold and windy, so I made it brief.

The hour meter read about 4100 hours. The steering had about 10 inches of play in it. The slack seemed to be mostly in the gearbox. The 3 point parts had plenty of play in them. The radiator wasn't showing any coolant that I could see. 3 of the tires looked like they could blow at any moment. One rear tire seemed to be still serviceable. Both front rims and one rear showed serious rust issues and need replacing I think.

I was looking at it without the owner present, so I didn't run the engine. The tractor looks good from a distance, but not up close. I'll include a pic. I'm still trying to figure out if I want to make an offer on it. Not sure if I need that much more work right now.
a136489.jpg
 

Unless you are an experienced tractor rebuilder, I'd say.......
RUN like a scalded dog. Your dollars will get you much further down the road with a much nicer specimen.

"[i:9cd1fb786f]Buy the best; the very best you can afford. You will never regret it."[/i:9cd1fb786f]
John "Poncho" Taylor

Mike
 
I have experience on the 35 X Massey (3 cylinder ENGLISH engine) .....be sure to step on the clutch pedal and verify that the PTO stops turning. If it's a live PTO then the forward movement of the Tractor must stop when the Clutch pedal is 50% deprest and the PTO must stop before the CLUTCH PEDAL hits the RUNNING BOARDS. Also you should have some one place there hand at the front of the Crank shaft PULLEY (ENGINE NOT RUNNING). Now stepe on the clutch pedal HARD and see how much forward movement the crank has .There should be only the clearance of the THRUST BEARING...IE .005 to .010. Anything grater could indicate the clutch is worn and someone was pushing so hard on the clutch to stop the PTO that they have KNOCKED the THRUST FACE off the CRANKSHAFT. Once the CRANKSHAFT exceeded the maximum amount of allowable thrust then the CRANKSHAFT THROUGH shall start to hit the side of the BEARING CAP! Yes the crankshaft can be welded and ground in the area of the THRUST FACE. Start the engine and see if the THREE POINT HITCH HUNTS...BOBBS up and down.........
 
I have experience on the 35 X Massey (3 cylinder ENGLISH engine) .....be sure to step on the clutch pedal and verify that the PTO stops turning. If it's a live PTO then the forward movement of the Tractor must stop when the Clutch pedal is 50% deprest and the PTO must stop before the CLUTCH PEDAL hits the RUNNING BOARDS. Also you should have some one place there hand at the front of the Crank shaft PULLEY (ENGINE NOT RUNNING). Now stepe on the clutch pedal HARD and see how much forward movement the crank has .There should be only the clearance of the THRUST BEARING...IE .005 to .010. Anything grater could indicate the clutch is worn and someone was pushing so hard on the clutch to stop the PTO that they have KNOCKED the THRUST FACE off the CRANKSHAFT. Once the CRANKSHAFT exceeded the maximum amount of allowable thrust then the CRANKSHAFT THROUGH shall start to hit the side of the BEARING CAP! Yes the crankshaft can be welded and ground in the area of the THRUST FACE. Start the engine and see if the THREE POINT HITCH HUNTS...BOBBS up and down.........
 

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