MF 165 hydraulic knock?

I own a 73 MF165 and anytime the 3pt lift arms are in the raised position and the tractor is warm, I begin to hear a "knocking" noise ( with or without an implement). As the tractor gets warmer (up to full temp), the knocking gets much louder. If i lower the the 3pt lift arm lever the noise goes away. I have searched and can not find a direct answer to this problem. I first noticed the knock when disking and the lever in "constant pumping". It also seem to lose some power in "constant pumping". Any help is appreciated.
 
The top stop is not set right, or missing. The relief valve is constantly blowing when you hear the knocking. Constant pumping is for auxillary valve use. There should be a lever stop set to limit lift travel just short of full lift.
 
If you are discing you don"t want to put the control lever in constant pumping. That"s for running hydraulic cylinders and stuff when you have a diverter and hydraulic lines plumbed into the lift pump. Use it in either draft or position control for the 3pt. The knocking noise is quite common in these tractors. My 1974 MF 175 does it also. The old guy at the Massey dealership listened to it after I got it and told me that was normal. He said some did it when they were new and some didn"t and i figure he should know what he is talking about since he went to work for Massey in 1956.
 
Keep on discing with the lever in constant pumping and the knock
will stop, But the problem is you will also have no hydraulics. The
noise is, as has been said before, the pressure relief valve blowing
off. And it does not like blowing off too often or it gets hot and
wears out!
If the noise was happening all the time it could be broken dowels
on the lift pump letting the pump rattle about. but, if as you say, it
only happens in constant pumping your tractor is 'normal'
Sam
 
Hi,
To add a little to what Dieseltech has said;
When the quadrant lever is fully raised you will probably find that the 3-point is tight. This is what is causing the relief valve to blow. Lower the quadrant POSITION Control lever slightly and the knocking should stop.
Lift the 3-point at the ends by hand. Correct free travel is about one to one and a half inches at the ball ends. When you have this figure fit either the lever stop or a bolt of suitable length and a nut to the slot to prevent the lever being moved into Constant Pumping. If you need to use Constant Pumping make sure that you can move the lever past your stop.
DavidP, South Wales
 
So what causes the knocking sound when it's not in constant pumping? Mine does it when I am moving hay or whenever I have a heavy load on it. The dowel pins are fine. It's been like that for the two years I've owned it. We've had the lift cover off made sure the adjustments were right.
 
The dowels are fine. I have a "wheel disk" not a 3pt, so i like to raise it at the end of the field so i dont have to turn with it down.Which is why i want it in constant pumping. If it is the relief valve "popping" then Why? It cant be normal and gets so loud when hot, im afraid its going to blow apart and split the case! Why does it lose power in constant pumping ( bad enough i have to drop a gear). The knock never goes away with the lever in the full raise position (Not constant pumping). In full raise, I can lift the lift arms about 3" to 4" by hand. So the relief should not be popping, right?
 
Yours is doing the same thing mine is although I have never noticed mine loosing any power in constant pumping. A year or so I asked about it and the response I got on here is that it was a normal trait.
 
See this thread where I asked

http://search.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=mf&th=131134
 
The knocking is a characteristic of the yoke style pumps that are used in these tractors. These are old tractors and they do tend to wear down a bit, so the knocking usually gets a bit worse with age. It is also very important to change the oil, and use the correct wt of oil. Since these pumps sit on the bottom of the transmission, water will accumulate there too if the oil isn't changed regularly, causing extra wear and tear on the pumps. As mentioned earlier, they will knock when under load, or if the lift adjustment is is incorrect, causing the lift piston to bottom out and dead-head the pump, creating an artificial load. And of course the knocking will get worse as the oil gets hot. I have never heard of this using so much power you have to drop down a gear. But if that's the case, the relief valve may be set to high, using more power, and really heating up the oil more than normal.
 
What Dieseltech say is correct. It is either the stops that moved a little when the lever was pushed to hard, or wear and tear here and there has done the same, so the lift arms goes too high.

Here is a tip. At least in the Norwegian operators manuals, the lower and upper position of the lower link arm balls are mentioned. From so many inches above flat ground or a floor, up to so many inches. If you find that figure, or if someone knows the answer here and can help you, and you measure your own ones, I am pretty sure the lower lift arms lift higher than they are supposed to lift.
The arms are not supposed to lift so high that the safety valve is activated.

I had this happen to my 1960 MF 65, just that I had no clue the pump had no safety valve, so I heard the knocking, and bang, the entire top cover cracked.


Bill
 
Jason, in your other thread you were lookin for a Massey bone yard. 931-762-7831 or 800-545-9967.
I forgot the name of the place, but it is in TN.
 

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