Need Suggestions for a Brake Job

NCmau

Member
Since my MF 202 has a little braking power, I am attempting to do a brake job. I am having problems removing the drums, which I assume they haven't been removed for the last 100 years. I made the turn wheel adjustment so that the drums turn freely, removed the two slotted screws, hit it with the hammer every which way… still no budging.
I noticed there are two 3/8" (?) threaded holes on the face of the drums, which I assume is a place for a puller. I haven't done that yet. I am also wondering, if heat has to be applied, where you would direct the flame… in the vicinity of the lug bolts? I would rather not do the heat job if I don't have to.
It doesn't appear to be an oil leak so the shoes should be pretty dry.
I would really appreciate some suggestions.

BTW, are tractor brakes more sluggish than non-power conventional car brakes, or are they more compatible to car hand brakes?
 
Be very, very careful with your threaded rod in those threaded holes unless you have new drums waiting to be fitted!. I have seen the casting busted by over ambitious use of those threaded holes!
Using a copper faced hammer drive the wheel studs back a bit.....just enough to break the rust bond, then hit the brake drums between the studs and around that area. Never ever hit the edges of the drums unless you are wearing eye protection to save your eyes from the bits that keep breaking off!
Sam
 
No, don't try it you will bust the drum. As Sam says, drive back the wheel studs with a copper hammer then pound the drum all around the hub and between the studs. Wear eye protection bits will come off the drum.
 
The brakes on these tractors require more force to activate than you would need with a car or truck with power brakes but if you give them a good jab with your foot they should stop you pretty quickly. Also depends on the weight of the tractor. My 202 which carries a FEL and backhoe requires more force and takes longer to stop than the TO35 which only carries things like a back blade. If I hit the brakes on that it will lock up the wheels if I'm not careful and skid to a stop.
 
I am trying to get a feel on how quick these tractor brakes should
respond. When I use the tractor at yard speed, pressing the clutch
and brakes at the same time it stops pretty good, not where it
would throw me in the bucket, but good enough. If the wheels are
off ground they do stop as the brakes are engaged. I don't think
they would be that good on the road, but then again I am not
driving on asphalt. Still I would like to look inside the drum and go
from there. I really believe the shoes are barely there if not gone.
 

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