massey 135 oil leak

RONG

New User
hi all new here,just bought my 135,1964,multi power, diesel,had it about 2 months, first thing I noticed is clutchs were slipping,planned on replacing this winter while I didn't need it, last week tractor quit moving,multi power shifter wouldn't shift into low,although tractor wouldn't move anywhere,took top trans cover off,3 point cover off, broken carter key on splined shaft,anyway split tractor to replace clutches,bout 2-3 quarts oil in bell housing, didn't realize it was leaking while it was running,now do I replace trans seals and rear main,and pan gaskets all three or what, just don't know what next plan of attack is going to be
 
It's a cotter pin not a carter key. That splined part assembly is designed to break before you do more serious damage. There should be another cotter pin sticking out under the clutch housing where it is supposed to drip if the rear seal or trans. seal is leaking. The cotter pin is designed to turn and keep the hole clean. Sounds like maybe the previous owner plugged the hole so you wouldn't see the leak. When you took the top cover off did you remove the roller in the 3 pt. linkage? If not your linkage is probably bent and the roller will be in the bottom somewhere. You'll need to find it. As far as the gaskets, I'd replace everything but use genuine MF/Perkins gaskets! David P who is an expert on these tractors says non OEM rope type rear seals almost always leak. Check if something is blocking the MP linkage from full movement. Speaking of David P, I'm sure he and other MF experts will be along shortly to tell you exactly what to do. I have almost the same tractor except mine is 65 UK diesel with MP. It's my most reliable machine and also the oldest.
 
MF should have put a sticker on the fuel tank.

Reminding the operator to check the upside down cotter pin under the belly of the tractor each time you filled the tank.

I got my TO-35 stuck one year, even though I had a cotter pin in the trans drain hole, mud was stuck up in the hole and I did not drive the tractor in tall grass for a while, so oil built up in the sump and ruined the clutch.

I bought that lesson: even though I knew about the key, but just did not check it as often as I should have.

most all old fergy's will leak some, but if you keep the trans/hyd oil level at the 1/2 way mark on the dip stick it will leak less.

always have the lift arms in the down position when checking the oil level, that insures all oil is in the sump. need to let tractor set for a few hrs to be sure all oil has drained down.

remember: that upside down cotter pin is one of your best friends, if you own an old fergy,

as I was told many farmers traded off the older fergy TO-35 when they started leaking as they are harder to repair than the later models.

I do not know, mech put new oil seals in mine when it was in for clutch repair, but it did not stop the leak, only slowed it down, you just learn to live with it.
 
Sorry,wasn"t thinking this am it is indeed a cotter pin
Thanks for the fast responses,no I didn"t pull pin before the top cover,where does it go? Going to pick up a book for it today,guess I should have done that before I started this
 
Hi Ron?
A whole host of issues have been brought up in your and subsequent postings and unfortunately the roller issue does highlight the absolute need to have a workshop manual to hand before tackling what is a relatively straightforward job without the relevant knowledge.
One thing that has not been mentioned is whether it is engine oil or transmission oil. Trying to read between the lines it would appear to be engine oil. Please confirm, yes or no.
Working on the basis of engine oil the tractor will need to be split. Clearly the clutch will need to be removed, stripped, cleaned and new plates fitted etc. It will be essential to clean out the bell housing and ensure that the split pin in the bottom is free and clear of debris.
In this instance I would suggest that the engine sump is removed and new gaskets/seals fitted. It is not possible to identify which is leaking so play safe and replace both. This can be done after the tractor has been rejoined.
If your leak is from the transmission then replacement of the seals is fairly straightforward. If necessary we can go through this after you have confirmed which oil is the culprit.
Where does the roller go? Gravity acts on all things and invariably the roller will find its way to the underside of the main hydraulic pump.
Retrieval is normally done after the pump has been removed. With all of the oil drained you can try sweeping the underside of the pump with a piece of wire or similar in the hope that you might just bring it out.
Before going any further make sure that you have a good workshop manual preferably a genuine MF one.
Please let us know about the oil.
DavidP, South Wales
 
Thanks,David for your response,I cant tell if it is engine oil or trans oil, obviously been slinging around in bell housing for quite some time, got my shop manual this afternoon,got sent out of town this week for work,should have plenty of time for reading in the evenings,one more thing I didn't mention earlier is when clutch pedal was all the way down,slight ticking/grinding coming from Bell housing area.
I looked inside and can see where something is grinding the housing on both sides,but cannot see any marks on pressure plate,or clutch housing.again thanks for your input.
 
A telescopic magnet would help to find the roller. I found out about the roller the hard way too. Luckily we had a good MF dealer close by that got everything straightened and fixed. That was probably 30 years ago. Something went bang and the 3 pt. quit. For the life of me I can't remember what went wrong. I don't think it was anything real serious though.
 
There are several things that can cause strange noises. The springs on the release lever/s can break and be thrown out and make contact with the casing. If the release levers are being pushed in too far they can make contact with the pto plate and make pto engagement difficult or impossible.
Make a note of how much clutch pedal free travel you have and slacken the pinch bolt and increase it slightly. If the noise stops then it may have been the fingers contacting the pto plate.
Another possible cause of a rattle when the pedal is fully pressed is a worn pto flywheel plate. It locates on three heavy lugs on the main pressure plate. When wear occurs the ptoflywheel plate will 'fall' slightly as the flywheel turns. This causes the noise.
DavidP, South Wales
 

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