202 Lost Oil Pressure

Paul007

Member
The oil pressure on my '59 Gas 202 Work Bull has been low, and last night the gauge didn't even budge and it started making a bit of a dry squealing noise. I pulled the oil filter canister off and started it, nothing coming out. It still runs, no knocks, so I'm hoping I can fix it.

I have never worked on this engine aside from tuneups. I assume the oil pump is inside the pan? Does the pan come off without major disassembly? Are there any other tests I can do while it still runs? Seems odd the pump would wear out completely, anything else it could be? It has never run low on oil.

Thanks.
 
It sounds as if it may be time for an engine overhaul. While there are many possible causes, the dry squealing sound is a sure sign that some or all of the engine has suffered the effects of oil starvation. Checking the main and rod bearings is the best place to start.

The oil pump is located within the oil pan and is attached to the front main bearing cap. Wear depends on many factors, but the oil pump can and will wear out. If this is the case it will need to be repaired or replaced. Be certain to pay special attention to the spring loaded oil pump relief valve because a weak or improperly shimmed spring can bleed off oil and cause low oil pressure.
 
Thanks DS43...

I took a quick look under it before I left last night, does the pan just drop off, nothing else in the way? It appears to bolt to the bell housing as well as the block.
 
in the front where the 2 long bolts are in the
middle up front there's a pan bolt should pretty
easy going.
 
i don't know much about your tractor but i had the same problem with my 52 8n and it was the head gasket believe it are not. i checked every thing and could not get over 20lb when cold and as it ran for a while it would drop to 0lb. then i thought i would do a quick inframe and when i pulled the head i saw that it blew between the oil port and the cylinder. i never has water in the oil or oil in the water i did use a good bit of oil. so i went to the local napa got a head gasket put it back together a it solved the problem. now it cranks at 60lb and after it runs a while it stays a bit over 20lb. just a thought you might want to look at. it worked for me and saved the cost of a overhaul. do a compression chek and it should show low and if so that may just be your problem. good luck
 
Thanks DS43...

I took a quick look under it before I left last night, does the pan just drop off, nothing else in the way? It appears to bolt to the bell housing as well as the block.

If you remove all the bolts, including those in the lower bell housing, and the two attaching it to the axle pivot assembly, the oil pan should drop straight down. Be prepared for a stuck gasket and don't forget to remove the three bolts that attach the oil pan to the timing cover.

If the oil pan refuses to budge, you've either missed a bolt or the gasket is stuck. In the event that the gasket is stuck, using a razor knife with a long blade is helpful.
 
(quoted from post at 13:06:05 08/18/13) Thanks. So I can push the two big bolts in front forward without supporting anything?


For tractors that are not equipped with a loader, removing the two long bolts that go into the oil pan without providing additional support is fine. However, for tractors that are equipped with a loader, I like to place a support beneath the bell housing inspection plate before removing the bolts because of the added weight of the loader frame.
 
OK. I have a loader so I'll brace the bell housing. Thanks. How heavy is that pan, do I need a jack under it? My best bench pressing years are far behind me.
 
(quoted from post at 20:06:33 08/18/13) OK. I have a loader so I'll brace the bell housing. Thanks. How heavy is that pan, do I need a jack under it? My best bench pressing years are far behind me.

The oil pan weighs about 30 pounds so it's not extremely heavy, but it's generally a good idea to place a support just below it to catch it. The oil pan is made of cast steel and it can break if it were to fall and hit a hard surface such as a concrete floor.
 
When you remove the oil pan most likely you will tear the gasket at the back of the engine. The only way to replace it is to split the tractor.

Since you really don't know what you will find when you take the engine apart, my advise would be to remove the loader frame before doing any work. It is going to be in the way and if you need to remove the engine for a major it is really going to be a problem.
 
(quoted from post at 04:25:52 08/20/13) When you remove the oil pan most likely you will tear the gasket at the back of the engine. The only way to replace it is to split the tractor.

Tear the gasket at the back of the engine? If you're referring to the mating surface between the engine and transmission, no gasket is used there, only a thin film of gasket shellac.

Even if a gasket were used, only the damaged portion of the gasket would need to be replaced, without the need for splitting the tractor. A similar area that comes to mind is the timing cover, where the front portion of the oil pan gasket is damaged when the timing cover is removed. In this case, replacing only the damaged portion of the oil pan gasket when reinstalling the timing cover works just fine.
 
Toinight I got the pan loose but I was unable to knock the two big bolts in front forward enough to clear the pan. They need to go forward about another 1/2" but are running into the front bottom plate where it angles up. Do the bolts normall clear the pan? I can't even see the bolt heads in there.
 
Got the oil pump out last night. Looks like the drive key ground up? New pump?

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