135 Perkins gas rear main leaking.

John Hinson

New User
I just had the Perkins gas engine completely overhauled on my old 135. Head rebuilt, pistons, sleeves, bearings and a new crankshaft. From the get go there is a steady drip of clean new engine oil from the rear main seal area. The overhaul was done by an authorized Perkins service center. They offered to replace the seal if I remove the engine from the tractor again. They also explained that since the EPA banned the use of asbestos even in rope seals they have to use a Kevlar seal which is less forgiving and harder to get to seal. I don't like seeing oil drip out of my new motor(The worn out engine didn't leak a drop at that location!) and think it would be easier to split and slide the tractor apart than to pull the engine again. I've installed rope and felt seals in the past myself with good luck. Are there any better options? Does anyone make a 2 piece neoprene lip seal for the little Perkins? There has to be a solution!
 
You took just the engine to them? I had a similar problem when I had the engine on my Cat rebuilt. The oil pump gear broke. I had to pull the complete engine and trans. back out to take it in for warranty. A few hundred hours later and it is was going through oil like crazy but had no smoke. The engine had to come out again. I made a deal that if I got the machine to them, they'd pull the engine for the third time and put it back in. It cost me $300 to get it to them and back but I think it was worth spending the $300. See if they'll give you a deal to split the tractor since it's not your fault it leaks.
 
Non genuine rope seals can cause grief in this area, as others have stated before on this site but genuine seals are still available and work well. Get the dealer to chase these up. If we can get them here in Auz, you must be able to get them stateside. I'm sure that their not Kevlar material.
The rear cork sump gasket could also be the source of the problem, maybe worth dropping the sump pan before removing the complete engine, just a thought,
Evan.
 
Hi,
As Evan has mentioned, non-genuine rope seals can give problems due I believe to the harder material in them. I don't know if it is the same seal for the diesel version but they are likely to be the same.
If that is the case I have fitted a genuine Perkins one to an MF 35 in the last week. After these problems I will not fit anything else now.
The seal in a sealed Perkins bag was supplied by MF agent PV Dobson under part number 36883119 with the retail price of £20.22.
Like Evan, I know nothing about any kevlar content so I would have to question the authenticity of that.
On reading the posting my first thought was the sump gasket fitted incorrectly. The cork strip which goes around the rear main bearing cap can be awkward to fit at the best of times. I have also found that the cork material used in non-genuine gasket kits is stiffer than the genuine kits. The upshot is that the strip will not remain in its recess in the cap without using a sealer/glue, holding it in place and letting it dry overnight before fitting the sump.
It's a difficult call to make which one to go for. If your repairer will state categorically that they have fitted a genuine Perkins seal then the sump has to be the first option.
DavidP, South Wales
 

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