TO-35 Hydraulics

I have a 1959 TO-35 SDM Ser#193579. The Hydraulics are lifting VERY slow. It will lift blade, rototiller, or whatever but it takes forever to lift it. The fluid was changed about 3yrs ago. Boots and seals are good. Kept out of rain and weather. Is there a screen or filter that might be clogged ? I could rebuild the pump but I would like to try the cheap stuff first. Any help would be great !! Thanks, Andy

Could be a leak, there are numerous o-rings throughout the hydraulic system. Start with the stand pipe because it's easy, two bolts and it's out. Does it leak down quickly? 3 years might be a long time if you get a wide range of temperatures and condensation builds up but even then it's not likely the entire cause. What temperature are you operating it in? Does it get any better after it has been used for 30-40 minutes? There may be a screen on the pump but my '59 does not have one, usually later ones had screens. Is it smooth or jerky on lifting?

Not sure about the leak down time. I have not timed it but I will tomorrow. I am in North Carolina and it's fairly mild temps around here. It never sees 0-10deg. Lowest is usually 20-25deg. Gets hot in summer. It still lifts very slow even after running for an hour or more. It raises smooth but REALLY slow !! By the way, where is the stand pipe? Tks, Andy

The stand pipe is under the transfer plate witch is to the right side of your seat looking down two bolts hold it in there are two o-rings on each end of pipe. I like to use vasoline and put on the o-rings so it slips in easy.

I should have reworded that differently.lol

(quoted from post at 11:17:41 04/16/13) I should have reworded that differently.lol

Click to expand...

Nah, I'm fine with how you put it! :lol:

Yea, No Kidding !!!

Ok, I checked for water at the drain plugs and there was no water. Check the dip stick and it was half way between full and low. It looks good and clean. Not milky or dirty. Next started tractor and warmed it up for 20min. Its about 75 deg here today so it's not like it was freezing for the last 2 months. Raised the tiller and it does raise kind of jerky especially when engine is at idle. It's slow as molasses. Cycled it about 25 times then raised it and shut down engine. It only took about 5 or 6 minutes to lower the tiller. Next took the tiller off and drove up to garage. Just had draw bar on and it stays up since it does not weigh that much. Loosened the 2 bolts for the stand pipe and oil spewed out since I had the hyd raised. Lowered arms and then took bolts rest of way out. O-rings on pipe and between cover and trans housing were all there and looked good. Pipe was not clogged. Should I run a small wire through the passage in the trans housing to make sure its open? Do I need to put new o-rings on the pipe? The oil did not look foamy or anything. It sure looks thick though. I wonder if I drained it and put 10w30 or 10w40 in and tried it what would happen. I sure hate to waste all that $$ but I need to get this thing going. I plan on restoring this one since my Dad bought it in 1968. It needs work on some things and I need it to be mechanically sound before I start the paint part of the restoration. What about the draft handles....could the position they are in make the lift work that slow? Any other ideas about adjustment or anything ? If not, it looks like I am going to rebuild the pump and stuff. Should I rebuild or get new pump? Tks, Andy

I would rebuild the pump if the majority of it is in good shape. It's not too tough a job and there are good kits available from this website. Having said that, some of the kits include pistons, cylinders and everything you need to make it work like new. While you are at it definitely replace the pressure relief valve, myself and others have done it without replacing it and promptly cracked the lift cylinder or top cover, it's a cheap part so replace it for sure.
The draft lever shouldn't have anything to do with lifting, put it roughly centered and try it but I'm sure you've tried it in different positions. The leakdown time you state sounds pretty typical which would tend to indicate that the hyd. piston and rings etc. are in decent shape. My 35 is pretty worn out and starts to leak down immediately but I'm replacing the pump and lift with the rebuilt one from my 202.
Being as how it is a piston pump I would expect it to be a little jerky at low RPM. The GL1 gear oil is a very thick oil to start with but I have heard it recommended to put in 10W30. I am in the process of rebuilding my TO35 and I plan to put 10W30 in it but I'm up in Canada where we get very cold temperatures. My 202 has the GL1 in it and I wouldn't even dream of using the 3pt in the winter with that, just too thick!

I would replace the O-rings for sure while you have the stand pipe out, it certainly can't hurt and might even solve your problem.

It could be an intake restriction.

Yours probably has a filter - later ones did.

It"s visible if fitted and accessible from the cover on the left side - where the PTO shifter comes out.

I put the tractor on a side hill, or run the left wheel up onto an 8 by 8 block (and block the wheels well to keep it from rolling) to move the oil to the right side of the transmission. Otherwise a gallon or two will run out the lower bolt hole.

I place the PTO in the off position before removing the cover.

If you have a filter, it will be a metal mesh type about 4" high, 2" round, with a metal can type cover, and sitting in another shallow can.
The top cover is locked with safety wire to prevent unscrewing.

If the filter mesh appears clean, that"s not likely to be your problem.

If it is crudded up, note how the wire is placed to prevent turning, cut it and remove it. Unscrew the top and remove the filter. As I recall the bottom can will come out with the filter - try to bring them both out together, because if the filter appears dirty, there will be wads of crap in the bottom of that can, and it can fall down into the pump intake. Not a good thing.

Reassembly - screw the assembly back into place, rewire the top to prevent unscrewing. Clean the cover surfaces (the old gasket was probably destroyed when you took the cover off), and I use silicon bathtub sealant to act as a new gasket.

Place the PTO shift in the off position, and replace the cover with a couple of bolts. Try shifting the PTO to be sure you have that lever properly engaged in the shifting sleeve.

If that works, snug her up, and try the lift.

Thanks Jack. I will try that tomorrow. Andy

UPDATE: Trac, Jack and Inno....I opened up the ferg tonight and the Hyd filter screen was totally clogged. I don't know how it was lifting anything ! I drained all of the fluid and will put new in tomorrow. Are you guys using 10w30 like John UK suggests? If so, how does it work in average climates like North Carolina? Did you use regular 10w30 motor oil or something special? I will update when I try it all out. Thanks again for the help !!! Andy

I am not using 10W30 yet, but when I get my TO35 back together I am definitely giving it a try. It is my understanding that just regular 10W30 is what you use. The big thing is that it be "yellow" metal safe. Other gear oils apparently will break down/corrode brass bushings which are used extensively in these tractors. This is my interpretation of it for what it's worth.

Hey guys..it now works great !! Cleaned the filter and gunk out of housing. Put in 10w30 and it works like brand new !! Thanks again to all who helped. Andy