135 Leaking fuel

How do I fix a fuel leak where the fuel shutoff rod comes out of the injector pump?
Tightening up the nut did not work.

Thanks, Greg
 
There are posts on here with pictures covering this. Most important is that you have read them before you start to dismantle the pump. There are springs under the cover that must, repeat must, be put back exactly as they were.
The job itself is straightforward, requires a small O ring seal. Perhaps others better qualified will give you more pointers.
 
Here is a cut/paste of instructions on this topic.
I am over 70, did mine on the tractor, never a leak since. Post back any problems. Tom
Is your pump a CAV? If it is a CAV, I have been there done that. The CAV is prone to leaking around the throttle shaft and the cut-off shaft. First you will need to get 2 or 3 cans of engine cleaner. Clean, clean, and clean again the whole area. After each spraying, hose off, let dry and do it again. Cleaner the better, if you drop a ball of grease/dirt into the top while the cover is off - big trouble, one piece of crud dropped into the bottom of the pump will cost you about $600-700. Now using a paper towel, start looking for your leak; it will show up real easy on the dry, clean paper towel.
1. MOST important thing is to have some paper and pencil BEFORE you take off the cover.
2. Remove shut-off linkage and throttle linkage.
3. Remove screws or nuts holding lid on.
4. DO NOT just lift up the top. Lift it just a little, very carefully so you can peek under it. A spring is attached from the lid to the bottom part of the pump. One end of spring is hooked on a wide post looking like a tombstone. The tombstone has several holes in it. Write down which hole the spring is hooked in before you remove it. The other end is through one of the holes in the flattened end of the control rod. Again write down the hole it is in before you remove it. This step is VERY IMPORTANT. If the spring is not reassembled to EXACTLY the same holes on both ends, the tractor will never run right again. The same pump can be used on different model tractors with the only difference being how the spring is hooked. My MF dealer mechanic can tell the proper holes by using the 3 numbers on the CAV. Now remove the spring, and lift off the lid.
5. Write down the model/year of tractor, and the model of the CAV pump and serial number. There are 3 different numbers on my CAV pump.
6. Take the cover with you and head to MF dealer and purchase a new gasket and four (4) tiny o-rings that fit around the throttle shaft and the shut-off shaft. Each shaft has 2 o-rings. If the o-rings are not leaking now, they soon will so replace all of them. Total cost of gasket and 4 o-rings is about $5 or $6.
7. You will need a little patience and two extra hands to get the spring attached on both ends and the new gasket fitted. I did this complete procedure on my MF 690 and now it has NO LEAKS.
Tom
 
I believe I will have a real live mechanic fix it.

I ain't but just 52 years old and I have extensive experience working on stuff like this- mostly bad experiences.
When my Dad was alive and he was paying the bill then my experience costs were not so much of a concern as they are now.

Seriously,

I really appreciate all your replies.

Greg
 
Greg,
Have to disagree with your approach. If your "mechanic" is not familiar with these CAV pumps and gets either one of the linkages hooked up wrong, then your real troubles will begin. Then you will have to have a 650 buck rebuild to set it right again. This is a simple, although tedious fix that can be done on the tractor in about 1 hour, including cleaning everything before opening. But, your call.
Tom
 
Tom,

I might reconsider. I have a retired MF mechanic that I use but he is about a 45 min travel each way.

I have always been afraid to monkey with an injector pump.
 
Tom,

I might reconsider. I have a retired MF mechanic that I use but he is about a 45 min travel each way.

I have always been afraid to monkey with an injector pump.

I appreciate you Tom
 
Greg, where in Ky are you. I just repaired one for a
neighbor yesterday. it"s not too bad of a job, if
you have done it before. I don"t know how far away
from me that you are.
 
I finally got around to this and decided I would try it.
What is the best way to stop or drain the fuel before I take the top/lid off?
 

Well I did it.
Had absolutely no problem.

The first MF dealer I called said the O-rings and gaskets only came in a kit - $65.00.
Since Tom said it was a $5-$6 fix I called a 2nd dealer. They charged $11.50 for the 4 O-rings, gasket and fiber washers for the hold down studs.

Not bad considering I had lost probably 5 gallons of diesel from the leak.

I really appreciate y'all and this forum. I don't post often but do refer to here frequently. Plus I know where to go to get good advice.

Thanks, Greg
 

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