MF 35 DIESEL

I am looking at buying a small tractor to pull a mower conditioner, and a side delivery rake, also possibly a 2 twin baler maybe pto driven, or ??? I have seen several pics. of the MF 35, some have an expanded metal grill, some don't, is that because the original grill got smashed, or did they come this way. Which diesel is the best, MF,I guess they were made by(Continental) or is Perkins the better diesel. The prices are from $2500 $3500 $4500, some have wheel weights some don't. What should I look for when I look at these machines, or should I look for a larger tractor. Already have an AC 7060 to do the discing. Any good comments would help. thanks....

The 3 cylinder Perkins diesel is what you want in a 35. It is a bulletproof engine. The Standard 4 cyl is no where as dependable good as the Perkins. Don't know your power requirements but some one else on here can help you with that.

Thanks Phil, with a name like that I can't go wrong!!!!!!!

I think I read somewhere (here perhaps) that my MF35 (w/Perkins 3cyl) makes around 35-40 PTO HP. Not sure if that fits what you need it to do or not since I have no experience with those attachments.

That's a good name but I've called lots of others LOL. I've had a few MF tractors with Perkins engines and 3 and 4 cylinder. The 3 cylinder AD152 sips fuel and is known for it's dependability.

Hi Phil, can't help but think that the 35 with a 3-cyl diesel is going to be too small if you are looking to use a conditioner as well. The 3-cyl 35 develops 37 BRAKE HP(only units available). A typical 5'6" disc mower is listed as requiring 40HP and a 5'6" with conditioner is listed at 60HP. You will get away with a slightly smaller tractor if ALL your ground is flat but will struggle if you have anything steep.
From this side of the pond a 165 would seem a better option.
DavidP, South Wales

Thanks, the mower I was thinking about would be a mower conditioner, if that makes any difference, the only experience I have is with a Ferguson and a sickle mower, and it worked great except for the mouse nests getting caught on the gards, never used a conditioner, and it gets pretty hot with little rain so maybe just a sickle mower and side delivery rake would work the best. If a 35 won't pull a mower conditioner then it surely won't pull a baler. Maybe I need to go a little bigger.

Hi Phil,
If your weather is mainly very dry you probably would not benefit fully from using a conditioner.
In the UK and Europe the use of a conditioner will hasten the drying of hay or silage by about 24 hours.
If you go for a mower only then the 35 will be ideal. The 35 will handle a 5'6" cutterbar or sickle as you call them or alternatively a 4'6" rotary drum mower with little weight loss on the front end of the tractor.. Having the smaller cut can of course cause problems in the working width of the first machine that you put through after mowing.
Sadly mouse nests clogging the fingers are a fact of life for a cutterbar mower. That is the beauty of the drum and saucer mower...you don't get off the tractor from start to finish.
The 35 would be ideal for a small baler because you have the flywheel to give you momentum and your forward speed is limited.
If you are not likely to be in a great rush, weather threatening etc to make the hay then the 35 will make an ideal tractor. Its economical and parts are readily available.
Cheers
DavidP

Hi, The 35 has power to bale and pull mower-cond.
That is if your land is level or light rolling
land. If you have steep hills then no. Chuck

Thanks Chuck, the land is level, and I think I can get a good deal on a mower conditioner. What do you think I should look for ie; price and problems with a MF35?

Thanks David, you have given me a good deal of information, I think the MF35 is a real good all around tractor. What do you think I should look for in a used unit. I think you can look it up in craigs list, Oregon, and see a MF 35 with a new engine and it looks like someone took good care of it, they want $4500. U.S. which doesn't seem to far out of line. Thanks again.

Continental didn't have a diesel in MF tractors. Look for a 135, 150 or it's bigger brother, the 165. Direct injection Perkins diesel and some good improvements over the previous 35 and 65 models.

Good morning Phil,
First of all stand back and look at it. Is the bonnet (hood) straight and in good condition? Read its history from the appearance. Look at the tyres all round espacially for any cracking in the walls. How much wear is present on the pedal grips? Are the linkage balls in the lift arms loose? Is there any excessive wear in any part of the 3-point linkage? Check the brake backplates for any sign of oil or dampness caused by a leaking seal. Are the brakes satisfactory?

How much play is in the steering? Check for wear in the front axle pivot bush and pin and steering ball joints. Check for any gap under the steering arms on the front axle. A gap of over 1/8" would suggest wear in the thrust bearings. Is there any play between the drop arms from the steering box (one against the other)?

Find out what has been done to the engine with receipts if possible. Check for good starting and no or very little blowback from the dipstick hole. There is a bolt at exactly the 12 o'clock position attaching the gearbox to the engine. Check if it is there. Many leave the bolt out because its a little awkward to fit. If the bolt is there then for me its a sign that the repairer has be conscientious enough to fit it.
Drive the tractor in all gears and apply the brakes firmly but briefly and listen for any strange noises. Check smoke emission when doing this.
I don't have the pound/dollar conversion to hand but in the UK I'd expect to pay between £2000 to 2500 for a good 35. If it all checks good and you can buy it for close to $4000 you should be onto a winner.
DavidP

Ok thanks, I'll look and see what is out there.

Hi David, I will print out this list and use it to check out the tractor, looks like it would be a good gauge for almost any machine. Thanks you very much.//// Phil