Front Hydraulic pump drive shaft removal

Paul007

Member
Anyone know what is involved in removing the shaft from the front of the crankshaft that drives the hydraulic pump for the loader on MF40? It attaches to the crank with what looks like a 3 bolt flange and then passes through the font axle before reaching the pump, and the flange is not going to fit through the axle hole.
 
Paul, The shaft threads into the coupler with LH
threads. You will need a special tool. We have
made one by welding a long bolt unto a shaft from
a deserted pump to thread it back out.Or a dealer
may have one. Or--where do you live? Chuck
 
Paul, The shaft threads into the coupler with LH
threads. You will need a special tool. We have
made one by welding a long bolt unto a shaft from
a deserted pump to thread it back out.Or a dealer
may have one. Or--where do you live? Chuck
 
Most likely a 4 bolt flange I know because I have one laying right here on the desk. Common set up on many brands of tractors. Most are a simple spline shaft set up. Unbolt the pump and pull it back and the shaft should come out of the hub on the crank shaft. You may have to remove a couple bolts at the flex coupler right at the pump so you can lift the pump up and out of the way then pull the shaft out. BTDT many many many times over the years on many loader set ups
 
I agree with chuck41. You need a shaft that is either splined or
keyed like your pump and a bar/lever welded at right angles and a
good heavy hammer, hit the lever one good blow in a clockwise
direction and it should then screw out freely.
Sam
 
Thanks Guys,

I saw the left hand thread in the parts book but the thought of that thread busting loose after 40 years of one way torque seemed improbable. I guess it's the way though, and using a splined tool is brilliant, which is why I hadn't thought of it.

My pump is off, and out of the way. I had lost hydraulic power, and it appears the splines in the shaft have stripped, but only about a third of the way in, more than half good spline remaining deeper in. I guess it's not some common spline I can buy at the local bearing shop eh? I'm in San Francisco.
 
Very common set up and is used on many brands of tractors. Like I said I have a shaft hub sitting right here on the desk. By the way you best replace both the hub and the shaft at the same time or you will be doing it again very soon. Guess how I know that. Any good tractor dealer will have or be able to get that parts you need. Shoot this site may even have the parts. Last time I checked a whole set up hub and shaft was around $100 give or take a little. You may also try doing a web search for the Agco web site who now owns MF
 
The spline shaft is by far more common and by far easier to work on which by the way is what he said he has since he has it off now
 
I may be wrong here as I am on the other side of the pond....but on our industrials with front shaft driven pumps, the hub on the front pulley of the engine is not splined, rather it is left hand threaded, the other end of that shaft, where the pump attaches is either internally keyed or splined on later models, and the only way to remove the shaft is as I said before. Maybe your machines have splines on each end? Check before going too far!
Sam
 
My tractor is 25 miles away in the muck. Best I can tell from pictures, I have a Hydreco pump, and I'm thinking it's 13 spline, 7/8" shaft diameter.

Sound about right/common?
 
Most I have run across here in the U.S. on the tractors use a spline type shaft set up with a hub that bolts to the crank pulley. Then on the end the pump is at there is a keyed 2 bolt flange that has a set screw to bolt it to the shaft then a 2 bolt flange that has a set screw and key on the pump. I know of the left hand tread types but so far never ran into one yet. The spline type like to wear at the splines and that in turn causes the pump to stop being driven so you have to replace the hub and shaft if your smart that is. Seen many just do the shaft and find that they are doing it again very soon
 
its easy .
bolt same size of shaft cut of threads .
i think 3/16 key .
take and grind a slot in bolt to fit key .
shove in and remove .
it will take less time to make than it took me to typ in .lol
 
I did that on my MF 202 about 2 months ago, Had to seperate front axle housing from engine,drive axle pin out,I removed the 3 rubber flange mounts then put ALOT! of heat to it and it finally came out with air wrench on homemade tool. Good luck Rod
 
Ugh, I was thinking that might be the case...

But, yesterday I drove over to Tod's Tractor Service in Petaluma Ca. (plug). When I said I had a stripped front pump drive he immediately said "Massey Ferguseon eh?". He had, as mentioned above, an old pump spline welded to a big nut, and says he's never failed to have one come out when hit with a rattle gun. Clockwise of course. So I have the tool, I'll bring some heat anyway, and give it a try tomorrow.
 
Just got the shaft out. As I mentioned, only the first third of the splines were engaging. Now, if I was smart, I would have measured how much further up the pump shaft the splines could go so I could effect the appropriate repair. Alas, I'll have to make another trip out. I was just happy the thing came right out.

89601119.jpg
 
The spline is a standard for hydraulic pump drive and I have had to repair these on Mofett tractors (made in Ireland with M-F skid unit) where the shaft was no longer available.
I managed to get a male/female spline adaptor from a hydraulic component supply company, from memory I think they said the spline was K13. Had a machine shop turn the old spline off of the shaft on a lathe, centre drill so the male part of my adaptor was a press fit in the hole and then MIG welded in to place. Return to customers farm, refit the shaft, smile politely and get the bill in! good luck.
 
My new coupling finally came in at the local bearing shop over the weekend. I had checked the Internet, found them for $9 (see link below), so I was a bit upset at spending $40 for it, then saw Granger wants $50. Gotta support the locals, good guys.

Anyway, the old coupling was silver soldered on and came right off with heat. I turned the splines off one end of the new coupling and have it pressed on the shaft. The new coupling is very soft, my question is should I attempt to harden by water or oil quench or leave it soft?

Thanks!


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