1130 Lift Pump Replacement

Has anyone here replaced their lift pump with an Electric pump? I talked with a mechanic a week ago about my 1130, which yet again has a leaking lift pump, I"ve replaced the pump 3 times already, and I"m not happy with getting diesel in the crankcase, so I think maybe putting on an electric may be the answer, however does anyone know what kind of electric pump to use and how does one go about abandoning the existing lift pump? Plug the intake and outlet? Remove the pump and place some kind of permanent cover? any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Leo,
Fitting an electric pump would certainly solve the potential problem of getting oil into the crank-case. Have you fully investigated why these presumably new pumps are leaking? Where are they leaking from?
In general a decent quality lift pump should last anywhere from 1500 to 2500 hours. My MF 1130 parts book shows the type as having a glass bowl, six retaining screws for the upper body and a hook and eye type attachment for the diaphragm. Have you fitted a quality branded pump (AC-Delco for example)or ones from the 'cheap and cheerful' level of supplier. There will be a quality difference. Is it the diaphragm that is failing? If you replace the existing one with another pump it be well worth slackening the body screws and holding the pump lever at full lift while you retighten the screws.
This will have the effect of loading the diaphragm equally and ensure its best life. Not even MF tell you to do this when overhauling a pump. Let us know how the others have failed.

If you go down the electric pump route you will need a pump that can deliver fuel at a pressure of between 5-8psi (.35 to .55bar) and one of course that will shut down when the system is fully pressurised and restart when the falls. Quick research shows that pumps range up to $350 or so. I'm guessing that a mechanical lift pump would cost in the region of $80-100. Ideally a metal plate of 3/16 to 1/4" to suit the port on the block should be made and sealed using a gasket. The pipes will then need to be modified to suit the pump ports. You will also require a fused electric supply switched on your 'ignition' key position.
Let us know what you decide.
DavidP, South Wales

Oops, for oil read fuel!!!!!!

The pumps continue to all fail the same, the diaphragm ends up with a hole in them, I'm guessing they are caused by rust debris making it past the glass bowl, I guess if I were to add yet another inline filter before the glass bowl, then maybe the filter would plug before getting the crud to the bowl and prevent the diaphragm from being destroyed? I Know i really need to remove the tank and have it cleaned properly, but that looks to be a huge job since there is a cab on the tractor as well. I really like the tractor, just do not like having continued issues with the lift pump. I have an email out for a quote on rebuild kits for the lift pump, if they are reasonable, I'm going to buy a few to have them onhand, maybe rebuild it every year in an attempt to prevent this. Frustrating for sure.

I had the same problem with my 1150 and installed a pre-filter like you mentioned. It has a clear housing so you can see when it's getting dirty. I haven't had a lift pump problem since.

One other thing, if your tractor has a sediment bulb type filter, you shouldn't need any other pre-filter. Make sure the screen above the bulb is there and in good shape. That should prevent any dirt or rust going into the lift pump.

It has the Glass Bowl, and I"ve replaced the entire assembly Twice already, would think the new one would have had the screen. I had sent an e-mail to one company requesting a quote on rebuild kit, hoping it was cheaper, but they have not replied, does anyone have a link to where I can buy a few rebuild kits?