T20 Draft Control Spring/Plunger question

MickW · Sep 2, 2012

Hi All

New here and looking for some advice please?!

I am in the process of replacing the draft control plunger and yoke on my newly acquired T20 which was seized up and had so much free play that it was flapping about like a sock in the wind!

I have looked at the manual and it says that these parts have to be replaced as a matched pair – does anyone know anything about this? I have found a company that does replacements but these are sold separately, so I am assuming that they will not be matched.

Also would it be advisable to replace the spring or is it okay to re-use the original (which looks absolutely fine)?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give on this procedure!

All the best

MickW

samn40 · Sep 2, 2012

You can buy and use the individual parts so long as the threads
match. The old spring should be fine. Tighten the spring until it can
just be turned by hand.
Sam

MickW · Sep 2, 2012

Hi Sam

Thanks for the info - will give it a go and let you know how I get on

Best

MickW

Jason S. · Sep 2, 2012

Carefully compare the one you buy with the original plunger. I
have heard some of the replacements are longer and the end
may have to be cut to get it to the same length of he original.
Your original spring should be fine...once you get it back
together...hook it to a 2 bottom plow and when it's lifted you
should have about .020 clearance between the plunger and
the spring...or be able to turn it by hand. If there is more than
that the draft control may not work correctly.

MickW · Sep 3, 2012

Hi Jason

Will do! The one I took off must have had about 1/2 inch freeplay and of course it was not doing its job at all.

The other potential problem I have is that the hydraulics had just completely packed up whereas it was lifting and dropping before. Is there anything obvious I can check for before I replace the draft control assembly and put it all back together?

Thanks for your help and advice

MW

Jason S. · Sep 3, 2012

Well...you can drain a few gallons of oil out of the hydraulic
system and then remove the round cover with the dipstick
where you check the hydraulic oil and take a look inside and
see what's happening. First check that the control valve
linkage is working back and forth when you move the draft
control lever beside the seat. Then check to see that the
control valve itself is in the linkage. It's in the very bottom of
the pump so you won't be able to see it unless you completely
drain the hydraulic sump...but you can feel for it. The end of it
where it hooks into the linkage is T shaped. If you don't
completely drain the hydraulic system then you can crank the
tractor and look inside for leaks in the system. Check the
linkages first because even with the spring out of adjustment it
should still lift and lower some. Did you try to tighten plunger
before this happened?

MickW · Sep 11, 2012

(quoted from post at 13:03:36 09/03/12) Well...you can drain a few gallons of oil out of the hydraulic
system and then remove the round cover with the dipstick
where you check the hydraulic oil and take a look inside and
see what's happening. First check that the control valve
linkage is working back and forth when you move the draft
control lever beside the seat. Then check to see that the
control valve itself is in the linkage. It's in the very bottom of
the pump so you won't be able to see it unless you completely
drain the hydraulic sump...but you can feel for it. The end of it
where it hooks into the linkage is T shaped. If you don't
completely drain the hydraulic system then you can crank the
tractor and look inside for leaks in the system. Check the
linkages first because even with the spring out of adjustment it
should still lift and lower some. Did you try to tighten plunger
before this happened?

Hi all

To answer Jason's question I did try to tighten the yoke to take up the play, but it was seized solid!

Since my last post, I have noticed that the cleavis pin securing the plunger to the fork is badly worn and needs to be replaced, but I have had a hell of a job trying to track one down. This pin is 3/8" dia and about 1 5/8" in length - does anyone know a place that stocks these?

Thanks in advance

MickW

Jason S. · Sep 11, 2012

You won"t get the yoke to turn until it is heated cherry red with
a torch...it"s been on there too many years with out oil or
grease....most all of them are that way. The last pins I bought I
got from a bolt supply shop...a few times I have had to cut
them off and redrill the holes because they were too long.

MickW · Sep 11, 2012

I wish I had tried that but instead I put a big bar on it and turned it until it sheared off! I have bought a new plunger and yoke but disappointingly the suppliers don't stock these pins...the search continues!

Will keep you posted - the list of jobs for the Fergie grows by the day

)

MickW · Sep 18, 2012

Hi everyone

I have now managed to replace the plunger with a pattern part (from Sparex.com). I did have to grind the end down a bit as it did not fit very well into the fork on the linkage so that the clevis pin would only go through the assembly when the plunger was at about 30 degree angle.

That is now sorted and the top half is back together. However, I think there is a problem with the control valve as I cannot seem to push it back into the pump and it doesn"t seem to be in the right position to be re-united with the control linkage. Has anyone had a problem with this before? They say a picture paints a thousand words so rather that me going on and trying to explain I have posted up some images in the hope that this may demonstrate the problem and someone may know the solution!

Thanks in advance

MickW

MickW · Oct 12, 2012

...something I said????!!

MickW · Oct 12, 2012

by the way I figured out that this was the control valve and that it was stuck out - I managed to drop the pump out and lubricate the valve before putting it back in. I put the whole lot back together and it works, although would you believe I am still waiting for the yoke from Sparex after about 6 weeks (and it's not due for another two). The local blacksmith managed to get the seized part of the plunger out of the yoke but damaged the internal thread in the process and so I am back to square one. Does anyone know what the thread would be so I can try and re-tap it? Looking forward to hearing from you all soon...

T20 Draft Control Spring/Plunger question

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