Pulling sleeves on MF135 diesel - advice required

The sleeves are very thin, bring the block to a machine shop to take the sleeves out and press in the new ones. I recently had this done to a perkins 3 cylinder it was less than $200.00
 
If you have a suitable puller and "dolly', you may like to try "spatter" welding inside the sleeves before removal.
This method involves using an arc welder at low amps, around 90 amps, and literally running several electrodes, in a circular motion around the inside of each liner from the top to the bottom, inside of each sleeve.
This tends to "shrink" each liner after they have cooled. The result can mean a difference of around twenty tons of force needed to push out the existing sleeve. But don't "hold' the rod in any one place for any length of time. This could possibly weld the liner to the block, ...keep the electrode moving at all times.
You will be surprised at how easy the sleeves will be removed.
 
X2 on the weld method. I just run 4 beads up each sleeve, on quarters. Makes pulling much easier even if you are not doing it in frame. Be real careful not to penetrate the sleeve!

It pays to make up a decent puller too. I had one turned to fit the bottoms of the sleeves. Drilled a 1" hole in the puller and used 1" ready rod to do the pulling.

When you are ready to re-assemble, put the new sleeves in the deep freeze over night. Put a 60W light bulb in each hole over night. Take the sleeves out one at a time and put in the warm block. Have a chunk of hard wood and a hammer handy. I have had them slip right in, no pounding or pressing required doing that. But you have to move quick, those sleeves warm up real fast.

Oh ya, get a couple of cans of brake cleaner and make sure that everything is clean as a whistle.

Good Luck,
JP.
 
The safest way is to make a sleeve puller that you can use to remove and install the new sleeves. The cast sleeves crack and the chrome sleeves will buckle and bend. Good luck.
 
Hi,
The attached photo shows a puller that I made to remove the liners from a 135 diesel. The bar goes across the bottom of the block and the disc then fits into the top of the liner to pull it in. Ensure that you have the correct liner stand-down for each one. Shims are available if needed.
They should be zero to 004".
When the block bore is fully cleaned and the new liner well oiled they normally fit easily or may even slide in under hand pressure most of the way. Sorry about it being on its side.
DavidP, South Wales
 
We will 'weld out' the liners. I will let you know how it turns out. The mechanic friend doing the work for me has done this a number of times in the past.
 
I borrowed a puck made for this from a machine shop. Placed it on the bottom of the sleeve w/ a piece of angle iron and a sledge hammer. Then freezer, light bulb method and puck on top w small hammer to install. Note: the first 1 I thought I would seat it real good, cracked the top lip off quick!
 

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