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Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

'67 MF 135 charging question.....

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Bobinva

08-26-2012 07:38:53
108.48.43.190



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My 135 (Z145 Continental) has a 12 gen...starts great, the ammeter needle drops to slight discharge as starter turns over, once running (never more than a full rotation), the needle comes back to dead center and doesn't go to "charge" unless I turn on the headlights...after a couple seconds, it will charge...when its "done", needle drops back to dead center and will not charge again untill I turn on the lights again...VR contacts dirty???/ Any help appreciated. Bob in VA

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Tennessee Kid

08-28-2012 21:44:36
68.184.170.221



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 Re: '67 MF 135 charging question..... in reply to Bobinva, 08-26-2012 07:38:53  
I've got a 1965 Z145 that the tachdrive was shot, no cable. Dynamo worked, but wanted all the gauges working. Found a dealer on eBay selling a GM three wire Alternator w/tachdrive for $179. I went that route. Replaced the ampmeter with a voltmeter. Replaced the proofmeter. It was froze up with rust. It's a more troublefree setup with an alternator which was what I was wanting to achieve.



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Bobinva

08-26-2012 15:08:52
108.48.43.190



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 Re: '67 MF 135 charging question..... in reply to OldMoIron, 08-26-2012 07:38:53  
Maybe you folks didn't understand what I was trying to say...1. Generator is putting out fine..had it checked out at auto electric place...2. Battery is completely charged and stays that way when I do what I said in the first post...3. VR (original to the tractor) charges when I put a load on the unit....ie. turn on the lights. 4. Yes, I flashed the generator to the battery side of the VR.... My question still is why doesn't it charge right after I start the engine ...again...could it be the contact points in the original VR? Bob in VA

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chas

08-26-2012 23:00:58
93.23.201.39



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 Re: '67 MF 135 charging question..... in reply to Bobinva, 08-26-2012 15:08:52  
The old type regulators are generally serviceable, even if they look 'sealed'. Common problem is tarnished / burned contacts, even 'New-Old Stock' replacements can have problems from years on the shelf . If you email me direct I can email you a service sheet that may help. (too big to post on here).

Regards ..... chas



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Jason S.

08-26-2012 09:50:39
174.254.196.6



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 Re: '67 MF 135 charging question..... in reply to Bobinva, 08-26-2012 07:38:53  
I have to agree with the cheap voltage regulator statements. My 175 wouldn't charge and I tried one the cheaper voltage regulator and it wouldn't charge. I went to oreillys and ordered a Borg Warner select voltage regulator and it started charging and hasn't given me anymore problems. The cheaper ones instead of having contact points in them they have a solid state circuit board and they just don't work. If you go buy one and it isn't as heavy in weight as your original or if you don't see the resistors on the back of it like the original...I wouldn't buy it. Have you polorized the generator to see if that makes a difference?

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samn40

08-26-2012 09:27:23
81.135.24.245



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 Re: '67 MF 135 charging question..... in reply to Bobinva, 08-26-2012 07:38:53  
Try removing the + lead from the battery with the engine running, if it is a gas engine it should still run if the dynamo is charging, on a diesel the lights ahould still work with the +terminal disconnected. Sam



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maxwell99

08-26-2012 08:11:58
208.78.252.250



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 Re: '67 MF 135 charging question..... in reply to Bobinva, 08-26-2012 07:38:53  
repair cycle i use:

1. Charge battery up to full charge, then take it you a battery shop or parts store that has the battery test equipment taht can place a load on the battery and determine the condition of the battery.

note to file: a bad battery will give you all kinds of problems with your charging system, you must have a good battery.

2. generator test, if you cannot do the test then have it done by shop, but the generator must be working properly

3. VR test: when starting needle goes to (-)
then after starting needle goes to (+) for a short while until battery is topped off.
full charge.

turn lights on, flashers on if you have then and idle down, needle should go to (-) then speed up motor and needle should go to (+)

(if it does not work this way)

all i have been able to do is replace VR, these new one's are made off shore and cheap, most do not allow for any adjustment. Just replace the VR with the best quality VR you can afford.

#####most people like to get rid of the generator/VR setup and go to a alternator with build in VR as all cars/trucks/tractors have today.

but my old generator has the gearbox on the back that runs the tach, but you can buy tacks that run off the coil and eliminate the geardriven generator.

good luck,

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