3pt adjusting link thread RH or LH?

Eldon (WA)

Well-known Member
The adjusting link (leveling box) on the 35 I just bought is seized up with the screw all the way in so I can't tell which way to turn it to loosen it up. I assume they have RH threads but thought I would ask here before I use too much force and break something. Any tips would be helpful, guess I might have to use some heat on it.....
 
Soak it in ATF/acetone, and tap the handle with a hammer, first one way, then the other. Eventually it will turn one way or the other. Heat works, but only if you know which way to turn, and I've seen them that go left, or right.
 
I have the same problem. I took out the grease fitting and injected my secret recipe, a 50/50 mix of ATF and mineral spirits. Removing grease fitting lets you get a lot more fluid in there where it counts. Let it sit a few days, go out and smack and turn every now and then. Eventually it will come loose. I may eventually try heat but the ATF usually works if you give it time. I'm using two pipe wrenches directly on the rod, you don't want to put too much force on the hand crank and mess it up.
 
It is a normal right hand thread,I have freed off many of these ,
the big problem is sometimes old hardened grease, Heat is the
best remedy for this and plenty of it. Heat it up till red then once
it feels as if it is moving slightly douse it in cold water. Another
tip is to leave it submerged in diesel for a few days. I find if you
don't want to mark the shaft, then remove the crank handle and
hit the bottom of the unit down hard on a block of wood.That
should drive the shaft up through the top welch washer so you
can put a pipe wrench on the teeth of the gear. This gives a
better grip and leaves no marks.
Sam
 
(quoted from post at 16:29:31 05/02/12) It is a normal right hand thread,I have freed off many of these ,
the big problem is sometimes old hardened grease, Heat is the
best remedy for this and plenty of it. Heat it up till red then once
it feels as if it is moving slightly douse it in cold water. Another
tip is to leave it submerged in diesel for a few days. I find if you
don't want to mark the shaft, then remove the crank handle and
hit the bottom of the unit down hard on a block of wood.That
should drive the shaft up through the top welch washer so you
can put a pipe wrench on the teeth of the gear. This gives a
better grip and leaves no marks.
Sam
Yeah I heated it red hot 3 times, the last time I quenched it with water and got it to move a little bit and kept working it. I had to grind down a pair of vice grips to fit between the head and the bottom yoke as it was turned all the way in. I still wore off a portion of the shaft with the vise grips slipping, but at least it is useable now, before the arms were about 2 inches from being level. It only took a couple of hours :p
 

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