Common Massey 275 problems?

After dealing with an IH 560 last year and selling it and STILL working on restoring the 165, its time for another tractor.

Anyway, its a 275 with a Multi-Power unit and 2200 hours or so. He's the second owner and uses it daily. We are heading over Sunday to take a look at it. I about cried when he said it was a MP unit and not an 8x2, but I guess its okay as long as it works right and isn't leaking.

Any common issues with them? Same leaking issues with the MP unit that the 165's have? Head gasket problems like the 318's?

Over the years we had a 65, 2 165s, a 175, a 168 and an 1100 all with fitted with Multipower, not one of those ever gave us a penny worth of trouble where the MP was concerned. On the other hand The only IH we ever had with a TA was nothing but grief.
According to Tractor.com The 275 has the AD.248 engine which I believe was very reliable unlike the 318.

(quoted from post at 22:51:19 04/04/12) Over the years we had a 65, 2 165s, a 175, a 168 and an 1100 all with fitted with Multipower, not one of those ever gave us a penny worth of trouble where the MP was concerned. On the other hand The only IH we ever had with a TA was nothing but grief.
According to Tractor.com The 275 has the AD.248 engine which I believe was very reliable unlike the 318.

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Speaking of the Multi Power unit- when can you switch to high? When can you switch to low? I never know when I can switch them in and out without hurting the tractor.

Surprisingly, the 560's TA worked great.... though it was never needed around our little 6 acre plot.

I would rather have MP than 8 speed. Just make sure it is low when shifting main trans. Use high for both hill hold feature and engine braking downhill and anytime a little more speed can be used. Only downfall is can't be roll or pull started.

Any time you like really ! What you do find though is that actual gear shifting is easier if the Multipower is in 'low'. If you are going down a hill it is best to shift into high (otherwise, no engine braking! )The beauty of it is you can shift from high to low (and vice versa )without using the clutch pedal at all.

Indeed the 318 did have some problems. I'd be quite happy with an MP tractor. It is advisable that if using MP 'low' for a prolonged time you should change to 'high' occasionally. The spinning plates although immersed in oil in the clutch housing can heat up and warp or wear prematurely.
Changing up or down can be done at virtually any time, however in terms of economy the highest gear for the job and conditions should be maintained. Check that the change up in top gear is crisp and check the hill hold feature. When facing uphill with a forward gear engaged and the clutch pedal at the bottom of the first stage the tractor will not run back unless the pedal is pressed through the second stage and vice versa in reverse.
DavidP, South Wales

if the hours are correct and it hasn't been abused and has been serviced proper it's just broken good,don't recall any particular problems with the mp,248 is a good engine,did have a few issues with the low torque lucas starters some had ,to solve that problem we switched them to delco's

(quoted from post at 13:11:44 04/05/12) Indeed the 318 did have some problems. I'd be quite happy with an MP tractor. It is advisable that if using MP 'low' for a prolonged time you should change to 'high' occasionally. The spinning plates although immersed in oil in the clutch housing can heat up and warp or wear prematurely.
Changing up or down can be done at virtually any time, however in terms of economy the highest gear for the job and conditions should be maintained. Check that the change up in top gear is crisp and check the hill hold feature. When facing uphill with a forward gear engaged and the clutch pedal at the bottom of the first stage the tractor will not run back unless the pedal is pressed through the second stage and vice versa in reverse.
DavidP, South Wales

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How much more heat will having it in high all the time cause? I noticed when plowing with the 165, the transmission would get real hot to the touch (3 bottom plow, first gear, MP on high).

Also, while I'm picking ya'lls brain, is a 3 bottom plow excess for the 165 or 275 in horse packed clay? Dad and I go back and fourth as I think the 3rd bottom is really working the tractors a bit hard in this clay soil.

I grew up around a MF165 and my favorite job was using it to plough with a MF 74 (I think), 3 bottom, trip beam plough. Our soil has considerable clay as well however it seemed to do fine. Tractor was well weighted and we were only doing small plots of about 5 acres at a time. If engine temp is remaining in desired range and wheel slippage is not excessive, then I would be happy.

Decent old ploughs tend to be cheap now so if concerned pick up a 2 bottom and give it a try. Condition of both the soil and plough will change the requirements considerably.

It has been years since I have ploughed but I hope to change that this fall! I have a large single furrow that I plan to haul with my IH 454 to break some overgrown ground with and I hope the single furrow will cause less issues with the roots, etc.

Well guys, I ended up buying it. 2200 hours, loader, and everything worked as it should. 7,000 dollars delivered 150 miles. The guys was real nice and the tractor was in good working order so I didn't want to haggle with him.

Will get pictures once its delivered. Also have a few levers added on the right side near the 3 point level and draft controller that I have no clue what they do (and neither did he, but he also didn't know what the Multi-power did either)

And already ran into problem number 1

Dad ran it with a cylinder ram leaking and now its howling like a banshee around the pump area. trans fluid is LOW. Guesses on if more fluid will fix the issue or do you think we already broke it?