(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Massey 2135 (industrial 135) runs poor when warm

M

maddog

New User
Tractor is a late "60"s or early "70"s 4 cyl Continental gas. The tractor starts great. Runs good when it"s cold. But, after it"s been running for 10 minutes or so, it starts cutting out, missing, and sputtering when under load. It still idles OK, but when it"s under load, it"s hard to keep it running without dying.

The head gasket had been blown since late summer as coolant vapor would come out the exhaust after starting. Tractor still ran fine though. The tractor sat for a few weeks this December. Around Christmas time, we got some snow so I went out to plow and that is when it started missing/sputtering. I replaced the head gasket, and that cleared up the coolant leak, but I still have the same sputtering issue. I also replaced the plugs and took the carb apart when I replaced the head gasket. Carb looked like new inside, but I thorougly cleaned it anyway.

Any idea what to look at next?
 
I"m assuming it"s a 12v system. When this happens, mmediately get off and check the spark. It should be FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE, the color of lightning. Not yellow, bluish red, or blue, but FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE. If it"s not the the primry ignition circuit is the problem. Check the points and make sure they are aset correctly.
Does it have a "real" 12 V coil, one with ~3.2 ohms resistance? Or does it have a coil with ~1.6 ohms and resisitor in series with the coil?How about the key switch. they go bad sometimes and show high resistance.

If you have the correct spark, then check for adequate fuel flow to the carb. Make sure the vent in the fue cap is open. Look for a filter in the carb inlet elbow. It may be clogged. Check the sediment bowl on the tank valve for clogging, etc.

The problem is either fuel or fire and you"ll have to find out which.
 
It's a 12V system. I just went out, pulled a plug, and cranked it. The spark looked fat and bluish white to me. I'm not sure if the coil is 3.2 or 1.6 ohm. Where do you measusre resistance? Can I tell if the coil is bad by measuring resistance? The air filter and sediment bowls are clean. I'll check on the vent cap. I'll try running it tomorrow and pull off the cap and see if it clears up. Here is a pic of the plugs I replaced, if that helps at all.
IMAG0339.jpg
 
Sounds like a coil or condenser breaking down. Coils are cheap and so is a basic tune up kit.
The second thought would be to remove the fuel cap when it starts acting up which will tell you if the vent is plugged causing a vacuum in the tank. My guess is the first sentence though.
 
This sounds like the classic symptom of a bad key switch, takes about 10 minutes when it's warmed up then starts losing contact for the correct power flow. I think it was Jerry who recommend this fix earlier. I know first hand that the condenser when going south sounds like a miss adjusted carb.
 
You measure the resistance across the coil primary terminals. If you have 1.6 ohm coil on a 12v system , your coil can overheat and short out internally. It takes a 15 minutes to a half hour to occur and then when it cools, you can start again and the problem reoccurs.

Your plugs don"t look fouled but they look like they"re running cold and/or your mixture is a tad rich but that"s not your basic problem.

Check the coil resistance first. I think you have soe component inthe primary ignition circuit that has a high reisitance in it. When it heats up and the reisitance increase further, you saprk goes to pot. using a jumper wire, jumper around each connectionn in the primary ignition circuit, including the key switch. When the problem goes away, you"ve found the high resistance. You can also do this with a volt meter but you have to do the checks with the engine running. Sometimes you can feel the component. It will be hot to the touch.
 
I replaced the coil, problem persists. I then checked the resistance of the keyswitch; ~0.5 ohm. The connector on the switch looked suspect, so I cut that off and rewired it. I also drained all the gas, cleaned out the float bowl, and put in fresh gas. After all that, problem still persists. It now seems like it is sputtering and stalling when it is cold too. It doesn't seem to need to get warm before it starts running poorly. What should I look at next?
 
Might be worth cleaning carb jets. Sometimes clapping someting (that can"t get sucked in) over the intake of the carb will pull it through.Under full load. I use my hand but you will get a lot of fuel contact with your skin.
 
What was the resistance of the coil you replaced it with?
The correct coil for a 12V is NAPA part number IC-14-SB. there are other coils but they should be 3.2 ohm coils.

If it"s a 1.6 ohm coil on an 12 V system it will overheat UNLESS you put a resistor in series with the coil.
 
Both coils appear to be 3.2 ohm. Both measured about 3.8 ohm, but my multimeter is a cheap harbor freight unit. The new coil is PN 189673M92 and it says 12V and has MF 135 listed on the packaging. I'll see if I can get a new condenser and point set, or maybe a tune up kit tomorrow after work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
MH 44 Won't keep running.
Replies
19
Views
369
stevieb49829
stevieb49829
F
Stalling Farmall Super C
2
Replies
22
Views
591
farmallphred
F
L
Massey Ferguson 135
Replies
2
Views
389
lshaffer1957
L
M
MF35 Petrol/TVO running very poorly
Replies
3
Views
262
Ericp351
E
C
Ford 8N Fuel Issues
Replies
15
Views
736
old
O
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top