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Bob N.Y. question for you about a post from the past

D

davemk

Member
http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=602300

Bob

You stated that you replaced your head studs with grade 8 bolts. What engine did you do this on? Where the bolts the same length as the Studs you replaced? I am working on an AD4-203, I can not believe what the dealer wants for new studs. Grade 8 bolts sound like a great Idea if they will work.


Dave
 
The engine is a Perkins 203 direct injection. The bolts are the same length as the studs from the nut to the end. I had to grind a little off from 2 bolts so they wouldn't bottom out before getting tight. That was in 1987. The tractor is still running.
 
Bob

Sorry for all of the questions, but I want to make sure I get this right. Did you use a Hex head grade 8 bolt? Did you use the same torque specs that are called for with studs? Did you use washers?

Dave
 
Grade 8 hex head bolts? Yes.
Same torque spec.? Yes.
Washers? I don't think so. The memory is getting a little foggy. I just found the old head studs from my engine. Don't know why I still have them, but I do. It looks like you will need 15 4" bolts and 8 3.5" bolts. The left side of the head is a bit thinner than the rest. The shorter bolts are for that left side row. I think you will have to grind about .25" off from 2 of the shorter bolts for the front and back bolt holes on the left side of the head.
 
(quoted from post at 09:33:33 12/31/11) Grade 8 hex head bolts? Yes.
Same torque spec.? Yes.
Washers? I don't think so. The memory is getting a little foggy. I just found the old head studs from my engine. Don't know why I still have them, but I do. It looks like you will need 15 4" bolts and 8 3.5" bolts. The left side of the head is a bit thinner than the rest. The shorter bolts are for that left side row. I think you will have to grind about .25" off from 2 of the shorter bolts for the front and back bolt holes on the left side of the head.
Click to expand...



Thank you for the Response Bob.

Dave
 
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